Why?  What are you going to switch?  What the deuce?

I have no idea why on Earth someone would make, or someone  would buy, a switcher that can't switch?

Rant over.  Carry on.   

Anyone ever thought of putting a brushless motor in a locomotive? (Ho, N or any gauge)

Much faster, more efficient, and lasts longer than their brushed counterparts.

I wonder if it is feasible?  It is an easy thing to install, but would it be worth it, I wonder?

I got the idea when I repaired a guy's G scale, propane and live steam powered locomotive, which had a reciever in the coal tender, and was controlled by 2.4 radio system.

I also wonder if  it would be compatable with DCC (the brushless system with ESC)?

Anyhoo, one thing is for sure, the locos top speed would be unlimited, for all intents and purposes.

Gonna help a local kid, who's 0-6-0 had an accident.  The tender came off the loco.  Looks like the plastic sway bar (it is called a sway bar, right?) broke off.

I assume I order a replacement sway bar. 

What about those two wires from the tender?  Do I solder them (not an easy task, lots of plastic about)

Thanks

Is running two locos on the same DC track a risk to the engines or power pack?  (I mean on the same block at the same time)

Hi,

I have  a DCC ready Spectrum Diesel Dash 40.

It quit running during break in (it's DCC ready but I'm running it on analog/DC), no headlight, no movement, no nada.

A few days later, I had it on my layout to re test, it still wouldn't power up, until another loco accidently crossed over the blocked section of the spur it was on, and it suddenly powered up, and ran perfectly AS LONG AS ANOTHER LOCO WAS ON THE SAME BLOCK.

So, absolutely no power and no light, no working at all, when on a track alone, but if another DC loco is on with it, it powers up and runs smoothly.

This seems very strange.  Why would another DC loco cause it to work?

I am not going to try that again until I get a better picture of what is happening, as I don't6 want to damage things (I run DC, with blocked sections and never run two locos on one section at the same time)

 I have become fairly proficient in replacing parts and repairing  HO and N locomotives (fairly minor stuff, like changing out engines, running gear, couplers and soldering repair).

What I have trouble with, is diagnosing problems.

What are (or where is) a good source)for routine/basic engine diagnosis?  

For instance, I have a Spectrum Dash 40 N scale Loco.

It quit running during break in (it's DCC ready but I'm running it on analog/DC), no headlight, no movement, no nada.

A few days later, I had it on my layout to re test, it still wouldn't power up, until another loco accidently crossed over the blocked section of the spur it was on, and it suddenly powered up, and ran perfectly AS LONG AS ANOTHER LOCO WAS ON THE SAME BLOCK.

So, absolutely no power when on a track alone, but if another DC loco is on with it, it powers up and runs smoothly.


No idea what to make of this.  (There is no track or power supply problem, it's the locomotive)

Thank you

 

Just acquired one, unused.

DCC ready? Will it run on analog?

What needs to be done to get it running on DCC?

Big sucker, my first six axle loco on my setup.  Very pretty (a CSX), nicely done.

I have the 44558 # 4 turnout, and the ez track will not connect to it, there is no cut out of the roadbed, so the pieces won't fit.

What is the deal with this?

Thanks,

GoCanes

Mr. Bach-Man,

Can I get shells, like the GP-50, in undecorated form?

Thanks

How many of you freelance with your own, made up railroad?

I'm doing a freelanced CSX in Florida, N scale, that includes a freind's small citrus industry from Vero Beach (Natalie's Orchid Island Juice, the BEST OJ on the planet), and the Cuesta Rey and El Producto cigar plant in Tampa  (based on the local CSX line, but I decided that my industries will be served by a smaller branchline, a yet to be named little railroad with a venerable GP 15 switcher and a GP 40, (I have those two undecorated locos) that will join the "real" CSX mainline.  Who wants to model prototype CSX phosphate cars anyway?  (boring)

Works out best for me, as my downtown Tampa Cigar indistry and Vero citrus cannot obviously be done on a layout (and heck, I don't even think El Producto has  railroad service, but I have some Model Power El Producto box cars that are too pretty to leave out, and the idea sounds cool)

Plus, my as yet to be named little railroad can have orange and green paint schemes (it's a Canes thing, you wouldn't understand)  

Who makes up their own stuff?  Please tell me I am not alone.

Weathered up some N scale 40' box cars.  They looked good last night.  Today, they are looking ugly.   

Caught the local CSX today at the intersection, hoping to see some confirmation.  A mile of brand new hoppers heading to the Phosphate mines, with nigh a scratch or rust stain on 'em.


Man, I overdid it.   

Where would I find replacement trucks for the Bachmann 3 axle passenger cars (like the McKinley Explorer), with or without wheels?

Thanks

Securing layout to benchwork top, and I am trying a couple changes, that bring up a new issue.

A standard switch is (the straight part) 6 and 5/16 long.   So what connectors can I use to balance an opposing side?

1.25 and 1.5 inch connectors obviously won't work. 

Should I cut down my own 1 and 5/16 section (or add in a Atlas snap track section) or just forget the new changes and go back to a balanced layout?

Thanks

Doing a modular garage layout, using 32" x 80" interior doors for the benchwork, with a layer of 1" pink insulation foam on top.

 Set up the first module, using the "World's Greatest Hobby" N scale track pack, and additional track and switches (Total of 8 switches on this module)

Ran a Bachmann GP50 and a GP40 with consists through a track test, and.....it works...GREAT!   Even ran a Spectrum big steam loco and tender through all the routes, without any problems.  Not a problem to be seen, at any speed, forward or reverse!

Very happy. Nice work, Bachmann!

Tonight, I will try Test number two, using  the power for the switches.

Used plastic rail joiners and a controller to have a passing track and the sidings seperately powered (my sidings convert to regular snap track, as I didn't want roadbed except for the mainlines)

Anyhoo, it works!   Now wish me luck  that all switches run fine remotely, and then it's time for phase 2: permanently affixing the track to the board!  

Yay!

BTW, I will post picks of my weathering and ballasting system for EZ track.  Looks pretty darn good and is quick and easy.

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UPDATE:   7 for 7 on the remote switchces so far!  Had to stop before wiring the eighth to make it to watch football, but I'm confident in that last one working great!   YESSS!

What could cause a very loud electrical noise from  an analog loco on a DCC system?

Is that normal?

I have a plethora of Bachmann rolling stock and a few locos that I want to add EZ mate magnetic couplers to.

Where is a good source for getting a crash course in coupler replacement?  Book?  Online?  Video?

It looks like it's going to be a bit tricky, and there are different coupler mounting gear on some of the stock and locos.

Also, why not use magnetic EZ mate couplers as the default option on all new Bachman cars?  I loved the EZ Mate system for HO, and assume it is great for N.  Curious as to why they aren't standard?

Thanks.