If you have Bachmann's venerable outside frame Consolidation, you have probably seen the video that came with it. That video was filmed on the Woodland Railway (my parents' railroad) outside of Washington DC. Recently, I was gifted the locomotive used in that video--a pre-production version of the 2-8-0. Anyone who knows me knows I can't leave well enough alone, and since I already have an outside frame 2-8-0 on my roster, it seemed fitting to turn this ancient loco into something new and exciting. Drawing inspiration from an O scale conversion kit for Bachmann's On30 version of this loco, I rebuilt it into a 2-8-2T.



It was interesting diving into this loco from a historical perspective. First, the loco was made from either blue or white plastic--apparently whatever the manufacturer had excess of to test-shoot the molds. It was then painted to the appropriate colors. Second, the cab did not have any rivet detail on it. Apparently it was added to the production models after this one was done. Also, the dreaded "split gear" syndrome did not strike this loco despite it being the first (or among the earliest) models of this loco made. Having said that, the gear is also made from a different material--black plastic of some variety as opposed to the white. And while it had not split, it did slip on the axle, so I replaced it with the new brass gear/axle replacement set. It runs very smoothly now.



Paint will be forthcoming, but it's winter and if I do any painting, it's with an airbrush, which requires me to clear a spot in my basement which is currently filled with Christmas decoration boxes awaiting return to our crawlspace.

I have a post on Facebook with more photos and descriptions. It's "public," so you shouldn't need to have a Facebook account to view it.

Facebook Link

Later,

K

A few new photos of the Tuscarora Railroad taken in the late 1910s have come to light.





More photos can be found on my blog, at
http://tuscarorarailroad.blogspot.com

Bachmann makes some very photogenic locomotives.

Later,

K

I spoke (briefly, as my kids were pulling me in different directions) to Bachmann at the National Garden Railway Convention today about the updated mogul. They're expecting it out around December, and confirmed it will have updated electronics and mechanics. (Yay!) Unknown if the mechanics can easily be retrofitted into the old moguls. They said they'd look into that. I didn't ask about anything new coming down the pike, but since the moguls were announced last summer and still not yet here, I figured even if there was something new in the works, I'd have time to save my pennies.

On a side note, dealers at the convention said Bachmann's new switch machines are proving very popular.

Later,

K

http://www.bachmannindustriesinc.com/pdf/NMRA_2014.pdf

Feeling a bit underwhelmed this morning with the "new releases" from the NMRA show: a repainted 1876 Mogul with new electronics (and hopefully new gears). I'm sure it's gonna look great--the E&P 4-4-0 is beautiful. But given the impression I got from talking to Bachmann at a show back in March, I was expecting something a bit more.

If it's any consolation, fellow large scalers, pay attention to which scale isn't even on the release. At least we get new paint (oh, and 2' radius switches.)

Later,

K

From this:



to this:



New cab, straight boiler, and slight modifications to the fuel bunker backdating the loco to a c. 1901 25-ton Climax. QSI "Titan" plug-and-play sound/motor decoder installed. Runs like a champ!

Details of the conversion can be found on my blog:

http://tuscarorarailroad.blogspot.com

Later,

K

It's down 5 tons! 

Before:


After:


(and without the paint, so you can see the changes a bit better)



Changes:
Narrowed the frame 1"
Lowered the cab about 5/8" (cut at the line for the battery boxes on the original)
Lowered the hoods about 3/4" (cut just below third stripe, so that what was the middle hinge on the door detail now becomes the lower hinge.
New front walls on cab, and new cab roof.



More photos can be found on my blog:
http://tuscarorarailroad.blogspot.com

Later,

K

The D&RGW made them famous by naming them "C-19," but to Baldwin, they were "10-26 E," and they built a bunch of 'em not only for the D&RG, but for railroads all around the globe.



Of those locos, the most familiar to fans of eastern railroading would be EBT's #7. Logic would dictate--knowing my love of the EBT--that I would jump at the chance to convert Bachmann's model to a model of the EBT's 2-8-0. Well, had they announced the loco a year before they actually did, then yes. Unfortunately while they were busy developing their model, I was busy scratchbuilding one of my own! (of all the rotten timing.)

So, I don't need two models of the same loco, so what to do with the Bachmann C-19? Well, how about taking some of the best features of the C-19 as built by Bachmann, and combining it with the simplicity of some of the 10-26 Es built for export, applied to a loco purchased used by a semi-fictitious railroad in 1916?







More info on the work that was done and detailed photos can be found by visiting my blog: http://tuscarorarailroad.blogspot.com/ (And if you scroll down on my blog, you'll see photos of my EBT #7, which I finished right about the time the Bachmann model came out.

Later,

K

Here's a little inspiration for those who are contemplating a C-19 purchase. This isn't Bachmann's C-19, but a scratchbuilt one I just finished. It's a model of EBT #7, which was built to the same Baldwin drawings as the D&RG locos Bachmann modeled. I'm posting this for no other reasons than to get your creative juices flowing. By and large, my loco is pretty much identical to Bachmann's. The only difference is the trim; different cab, pilot, stack--all elements that are easily changed by the modeler. There were a large number of inside-frame 2-8-0s running on US narrow gauge lines across the country. With just some minor work, you can easily morph Bachmann's model into one of them.



More images and a description of how I built the loco can be found on my blog. Click the link in my signature or head to http://tuscarorarailroad.blogspot.com

Later,

K

I've uploaded a new video on the Tuscarora RR to YouTube, featuring TRR #3, a Bachmann 2-8-0 (albeit cosmetically tweaked.)

http://youtu.be/YBpIUsXWN7Y

It's in HD, so if your 'puter can handle it, bring it full screen and enjoy!

Later,

K

I just read this on GR's web site: http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/p/203636/2226229.aspx#2226229

Great news to be sure. Any word on whether this would be a redesigned gearbox, or "just" metal replacement gears for the current gearbox? (To say nothing of availability and cost?)

Later,

K

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/2010_NMRA.pdf
In case you haven't seen it on the General Discussions forum yet...

Re-releases of the industrial mogul, 2-4-2 "Lyn" and the Climax (available with or without DCC sound). Also, the Spectrum box car with a Murphy roof.

Later,

K

TRR #3, the railroad's venerable Bachmann outside-frame 2-8-0, broke its main gear while pulling a short freight into Shade Gap. EBT #3 was dispatched to pull the train to Blacklog, then pulled #3 to the EBT's Rockhill Furnace shops for repair.

The TRR management considered the options available:
1) Buy the replacement plastic gear from Bachmann ($3 plus shipping) (The individual gears are not the main axle drive gear, but the gears within the gearbox. - K)
2) Buy the replacement wheel, axle and gear from Bachmann ($20 plus shipping)
3) Buy a replacement brass gear from NWSL ($12.95 plus shipping)
4) Buy a BBT motor/drive (Price unknown; well worth it, but not in the budget)

The plastic gear was kicked around, as this one lasted 7 years, and one could buy a handful of replacements for the cost of the NWSL gear. The replacement wheel/axle assembly was deemed unnecessary, as switching out a gear is a fairly mundane task for the shop crews. In the end, they opted for the brass gear from NWSL. The plastic replacement gears may last another 7 years, maybe longer, but maybe shorter, too. The brass gear isn't going to break. Due consideration was placed relative to wear and tear on the other gears in the drive, but failures of those gears have thus far proven rare.

NWSL part # 2226-6

Once the TRR receives the replacement, crews will give #3 a proper overhaul, making sure she's good and ready to return to the road in full form.

Later,

K

The latest out of the TRR shops...



Tuscarora Railroad #2 (Post-wreck version).



In 1923, Tuscarora RR #2 (ex ET&WNC #2) hit a washout and rolled over, causing a fair amount of damage. She was sent back to Baldwin, where she was rebuilt with new cab, domes, and a new tender.



Essentially, what you've got here is a Bachmann 2-6-0 chassis with a new boiler and tender. Many of the parts (domes, cab, generator, headlight, airpumps, etc.) are Bachmann parts from my scrap box. I'm a big fan of recycling.



This is #2 before paint, showing the various parts used. The tender is the tank from the 2-8-0, shortened by about an inch, and narrowed by around 1/2" or so.

More photos can be found here:
http://tinyurl.com/TRR2602

Later,

K

Ya know, a little black and brown paint, some powders, and that K ain't a half-bad lookin' loco... 



In all seriousness, this is a weathering job I did for a friend. It's mostly a wash of dilute black and brown paint, then some Bragdon powders here and there for the look of dust and soot.



If you're painting Bachmann's valve gear, you owe it to yourself to get a jar of Badger's Accuflex Dull Coat. This isn't the spray stuff, this comes in a little jar, goes on kinda milky-white, and dries to a dead flat finish. It does a GREAT job of toning down the bright shiny metal of the valve gear. You can then weather it with powders, washes, or whatever. It appears to be quite durable on the metal. At the very least, if it flakes off, it's easy to reapply, unlike paint that's been weathered, etc.



The paper window shades had to go. I replaced them with cloth first aid tape.



Here's #453 with my TRR #10.

Later,

K

So, I'm in the basement running my K-27 last night. It's trundling back and forth on my test track rather nicely, but I notice a squeak coming from the running gear when it's going backwards. Thinking it could be the valve gear, I reach my finger in to put some drag on the crosshead to see what would happen. Now, my basement is carpeted, and I was wearing socks. It's also very dry out here. You can guess how quickly static electricity builds up.

Anyway, when I went to touch the valve gear--ZAP!--. Didn't think anything of it. It's metal, and that happens. Shouldn't do any harm... Except...

First, my Aristo Revolution directional lighting which had been acting weird (being on full voltage in both directions on the forward connection terminals) all of a sudden decided to behave normally. It was now only on when the locomotive was moving forward. I can't explain it. (I moved the connections for the firebox and cab (the two lights attached to that connection) to a connection straight off the bridge rectifier that provides power to all the electronics. (The K is also wired to run off the track, hence the need for the rectifier.)

Second, my front headlight went poof! I hooked another K-27 up to my tender to check the electronic controls, they were all fine. I hooked another tender up to my locomotive, the headlight did not come on. The LED came on very dim when power was applied directly to the leads on the front circuit board, but when separated from the board, burned full--at least then. I'm betting something went weird in the transistors and all that stuff. My solution was to wire bypass that board, and wire direct to the tender connector with a dropping resistor. So, off came the shell (Thank you for making it so easy to remove!) and a new wire was run. I only had to run one wire, as the positive feed is a direct connection. Got everything hooked back up only to find that the LED was now officially DOA. Replaced that, and it's happy as a clam.

This is--I'm sure--one of those really weird freak things you read about from time to time, so I doubt we need to worry about grounding ourselves before picking up our locomotives. I haven't the vaguest clue as to what happened electronically. To say I've never had this happen before would be an understatement, but in fairness, I don't make a habit of putting my finger on metal valve gear while wearing socks and walking on pile carpet in a dry basement.

Later,

K

Ya know, put some paint and weathering on it, and that K-27 turns into a real nice lookin' locomotive!





For a full account and more photos, go here: http://tinyurl.com/TRRMikado10

Later,

K

I'm installing Aristo's Revolution in a K-27, and have stumbled on some issues that perhaps someone here may be able to help with...

First, when plugging the Revolution board straight into the plug-and-play socket, it seems that the headlights have opted to stop working. They work great under regular track power, but with the Revolution board in place, they don't come on at all. (Neither do the markers, firebox, or cab lights.)

Now, I'd prefer to use the accessory controls on the Aristo decoder to control the markers (class lights) and cab lights. These lights are designed to be controlled via a DCC controller, so one might assume that they can similarly be wired to the Aristo board for independent control, too. What I would think would be the common-sense route to accomplish this doesn't seem to work. Any thoughts?

I'm hoping to avoid gutting the entire socket and internal electronics to do this, since I like the concept of the plug-and-play socket.

Later,

K

The Tuscarora Railraod now has a blog. While it covers many topics relative to the railroad, most of the motive power for the line came through Philly, and should (hopefully) provide some inspiration to those wishing to take your Bachmann stuff and do something just a bit different with it.

http://tuscarorarailroad.blogspot.com

(Also in my sig line)

Later,

K

They're on display at the NGRC in Denver! Two versions - inside-frame with wood cab and outside frame with steel cab. Essentially upscaled versions of the On30 locos. They look fantastic, AND they're real Forneys, unlike LGB's where the drivers pivot under the boiler. Hats off to Bachmann. Yeah, the Maine locos were 2' gauge, and these are 3' gauge, but they're great looking locos.

Alas, my camera was not with me, so I'll have to get photos later.

Later,

K

The latest off the workbench...







More here: http://tinyurl.com/DRGW350

Later,

K