I am looking for some dimensional data on the "Mt. Union Timber Transfer".  Can anyone here direct me?

Rich C.

Hi, all;
now that I have (finally!!) decided that the track configuration/layout plot/circa/total reason for living-work is nigh, I have looked at several types of road-bed, and am going to try cork.  Cork???  Been around a long time.  Sure, but I have never tried to use just flooring underlay!  I have studied the applications, obstacles, etc; and have called it good.  Has anyone else used this system?  I will be using contact cement (the flammable "stoner" type) because of the quick contact/immovable feature.  My sub is pretty smooth, so I do not anticipate "telegraphing" any imperfections upward to the actual track.  I would like to get some feedback.  Thanks!

Rich C.

Just picked up some Bowser 0-4-0 chassis and drivers.  Save the drivers, basic rods, and frame, there isn't much-I hadn't expected more than that.  I plan to use one in a "little joe" body, and with the other two, for an A-6 switcher(s).  Again, these frames are pretty basic (no motor, gearing, etc.);  I would appreciate some feedback on the gory details of motorizing, and gears.  Thank you ahead of time.

Rich C.

Well; have got the drive train (note the pun...) running off of an OLD lifelike  Xformer.  RUns nice and smooth.  Am also putting parts on the body, so that it looks like a really bad small Mike.  This has been quite a challenge, and not without some pretty big surprises, as well as some neat things to have discovered.  I had an old Russian tender; and with a bit of fanagling , moving the decoder in the other locomotive tender ().  Am building a Dawghouse" for the brakeman-this unit will be used on locals, so lots of switching....  Kadee #58s, lighting courtesy of Demarr...and Cal-scale. 
Just to recap:  I used a Frisco "Mike" body (which is really a Russian body-shhhhh...Don't nobody tell the Bach-man...) and just removed the SY body from the frame.  After a ton-and I mean a TON-of re-fitting, things finally started to come together, as I had planned (and hoped!).
WIth a penchant for getting myself in a world of trouble, I am removing the appliances like power reverse, train control, stack, etc, and replacing them with brass parts, courtesy of Al at Greenway. 
Now, this has been a project that would tickle the fancy of the likes of R. Travis et al...Who are probably just as nutzy as I am.
Also; all joking aside; this was no piece of cake.  I would never recommend it to anyone who lacks mechanical skills to any great degree; on the other hand, how else do you learn?  If you want to attempt this, I strongly suggest that you sharpen your skills AND THOROUGHLY plan out the job-before you even lace up your sneaks.  It isn't the most insurmountable project that I ever took on, but it does rank right up therein terms of back pain, eye strain, exacto'd fingers, and salty comments from a usually tolerant girlfriend!  I guess I'm just blessed...

HI; Have finally started to build me a mike from Bachmann parts.  It is a pretty tricky proposition, but it is fun and am learning a lot in the process.  While I do not encourage this task for the faint at heart, it is my own personal little adventure.  I will keep you posted as I go along. 
The project started life as the second SY I had purchased some years back, and a "Frisco" body.  Lots of cutting and fitting, but it is coming.  Bachmann parts are of the same high quality that we have become accustomed to.

Rich C.

This is a note of appreciation and one of giving a total "four-star" rating to Bachmann's compliment of personnel.
I had recently placed and order for a Pacific boiler; and as it appeared to be basically fitted with smoke-box face, stack, etc., this is what I had expected. 

It came in as something without fittings.  Skipping the "in and outs of this incident" I went through trying to get it rectified, Bachmann really went "beyond the call" trying to get things right.  Their people, especially Ash, who I was doing the negotiating with, were not only very helpful, but extremely professional and courteous.

My appreciation to the people working at Bachmann for everything regarding this.  This country needs companies with Bachmann's standards of operation.  This writer is one satisfied as well as a continuing customer.

My very best;

Richard Cormier

I recently purchased some parts from Bachmann.  I enjoy rebuilding and super-detailing, as well as making something run better(if needed).
I ordered a pacific body (the K-4).  It got delivered sans smoke-box front.  I have been trying to contact them there guys in parts to get them to put the part in this newer order.  As hard as I have tried, I have not been successful. 
While a smoke-box front is no biggie, it really browns me off to keep getting the same recording and being put on hold indefinitely. 
While I don't think it is going to help my end doing this, I am venting.  I'll probably wind up getting a brass smoke-box front from Cal-Scale or others.  No big thing, but I am really disappointed;  I have always liked working with Bachmann material.


RIch C. 

A while ago I found a pretty good set off papers on operation, and the part that really caught my eye was the speed, coupling and uncoupling, signals, etc-as applied to HO scale steam locomotives. 
I don't think I have seen five layouts where realistic operation of HO scale locomotives is truly observed. 
A 2-8-8-2 pulling a short freight?  At breakneck speed?  Nope.  I say look up speed in a manual.  Big motive power wasn't used on short trains; a Bachmann 2-6-0 looks a lot better pulling an eighteen car local than a team of Mikes.  Short of hollering for a crossing, most signals are ignored.  Maybe this shouldn't be so ignored.
Sound is another bug.  An HO locomotive that is running across a river should not sound like you are standing right next to it.  Overdoing it kind of douses the effect.    The same thing with coupling/uncoupling.  I have watched a lot of trains being put together; the ONE thing one hardly ever sees is the "ramming" of a made-up train; yet, most of the time, the loco pushes the train a half mile back.  The larger scales don't have such a bad time of it; but HO scale and others seem to not have the knack...  I think a lot of that is lack of information.  Kadee, for one, has much literature on which trucks, wheelsets, couplers, etc.; to use for prototype looks and good operation; and you can find more useful info on line. 
If you are running a two or three-car around a circle, knock yourself out; but if you went through the time, expense and trouble to put together an other wise decent layout, why not go the extra mile?

Rich C.

I have acquired a few OLD...  locomotives, a couple of B'mann 2-8-0s with the Wooten looking firebox.  These motors are probably junk, compared to the newer product, but I like the design of the engine.
What would the procedure be for a motor change-out to a decent can motor?  Will be using either "Loksound" or Tsunami decoder.

Rich C.

The  Philadelphia wreck is tragic.  When I saw it this AM, the first thing to come to mind was the "Jenkins Curve wreck" in 1955.  In this case, the engineer was alone in the cab, as the fireman was at the rear of the motor (EP-4); The investigation proved the engineer suffered a heart attack, and did not remove his foot from the "dead-man's pedal".  There was a 35MPH speed restriction at the curve, and the train hit it at 70.  Both are extremely tragic.
SGT C.

I just picked up a new I-Pad from AT&T and am wondering if one can control DCC systems from that unit rather than a hand-held.  I would think that, once programmed, that it would be a lot more user friendly.  Your thoughts?
SGT C.

I found an interesting method of cutting radii for sub-roadbed on you-tube.  It looks pretty good, the one thing I am going to do is modify the way it is assembled, though.  Firstly, I am using a lamination of 1/4" underlayment.  I will put three of them together, giving me a 3/4" unit.  Now, on assembly, I am gluing them together in a staggered formation .  I am using 2.5 inch increments.  This will give me an effective, solid splice as well as a pretty good gluing surface; so three pieces glued and clamped together; then sanded for a smooth consistent edge, as well as face.  These will mate together for a nominal curve.
I will rip the plywood into 2X4 foot pieces, making it easier to handle; then layout the curves (radii) using the method and implement that he exemplified; then cut the curves out on a band saw, using a 1/2" skip-tooth blade.  The same can be accomplished using a sabre saw, or a  jig saw. 
Finish by sanding, then put a coat or two of shellac, or the sealer of your choice.  This will help much when you install the roadbed, giving it a highly effective gluing surface.
So, the only waste you will have is minimal, and you have an effective, efficient system.
Rich C.

With regard to Bachmann's Berkshire model.  Would anyone have an idea as to much work would be required to get a fair representation of a Boston and Albany A-6 Berkshire.  I have looked for good photos that could pass for decent elevations to no avail. 
I have always loved the DVD photo of them in action. 
Rich C. 

Greetings, all;
I recently acquired some tank cars whose origin shall remain nondescript, other than they are pretty old.  In tackling these beasts, the thought occurred to me [that] there might be a source of oil company type decals, HO scale.  Would anyone have knowledge of same?
Rich C. 

Did I see somewhere that Bachmann has a 2-6-2 Prairie out?  This was, I believe, not too popular a unit with most roads.  I have two from others.   Would be interested.  What gives here?
Rich C.

Would it be possible to send in a 2-8-0 to get it's insides replaced?  I am not looking for a price break-I started to repair a loosely running drivetrain.  I just want a fair and square type deal.

HI;
I have seen a lot on this site about this and that relative to this hobby, and there are no doubt some great and talented people here; Jonathan immediately comes to mind, as well as several others in the tech dept.  Are there any other sites that might be explored by people "coming aboard" so that they might see some of the craftsman-type efforts, and maybe get to know some of the guys like Bob VanGelder, George Sellios, et al?
I think that this area is at least inspirational for the average modeler to be exposed to-a lot of people here may not even be aware of the level of work out there.
RIch C.

As per Jonathan's suggestion, I am starting a new topic
As of late, I had purchased a number of brass locomotives.  Naturally, they are all steam...
I would like to invite EVERYONE, regardless of  expertise, to get into this topic.
My thought is-first off-to discuss the thought of just cleaning down to the brass (via sonic, solvent/remover, etc.), the methods used here, and the thoughts on paint-type, colour, etc.  I have several mediums as far as paint.   I am not prone to use acrylic on brass-but that is only my thought.  I have several bottles of Floquil laquer rolling around on a mixer I built (works like gangbusters!!) .  I installed a 1/4-20 nut in each bottle-any fairly large nut will do-as an agitator, so they are ready and able.
As well as steam, diesel would go through basically the same process for a quality job.
The second thought is-again- cleaning them right down to the skin; but instead of paint, I want to first blacken them.  I have had very good luck with a product called "Blacken It" for this process for various other parts.  That done, them prime and paint accordingly.  my thought is that the blackening process will produce a "natural" look that might be found on a locomotive too busy to visit "ye olde paint shoppe."
As I said:  Your thoughts, each one of you.

Rich C.

And as I said, this is open to any level; we-all of us-neither know everything, or have perfect equipment.  There are no Gods here, so all are invited to participate

I would just like to say that, in the past nine or ten years, Bachman has done yeoman work in locomotive production; thee is very little for anyone to ask for.  For what it is worth, my thought has always been that if I don't see it, and I want it, I can find something close and make it.  Bachmann has been instrumental to this end where I have been concerned; so with that said, thank you Bachmann.

Rich C. 

HI all; got down to Old Saybrook on a service call, so stopped in at CT. Valley Railroad.   There is a really neat (but ratty looking) consolidation guarding the front entrance, and the ever-present "New Haven" SY MIke.  Sure do wish they'd listen to old "Pappy Richie" and get some 1:1 Cal Scale parts...
Rich C.