So I need to fine a new motor for my Bachmann Pegasus 4-2-0 Norris engine. The old one burned out.

I shot an e-mail to Bachmann's parts department to see if it's in stock, and this is the reply:

<<Hello,

My suggestion to you would be to go onto the Ask the Bachmann Forum online at the website.

See what the modelers can tell you.


Cynthia
PARTS DEPARTMENT
Bachmann Industries
1400 E. Erie Avenue
Philadelphia PA 19124
www.bachmanntrains.com
www.parts@bachmanntrains.com
Phone: 1-800-356-3910
Phone: 215-533-1600
Fax: 215-533-1650>>



Okay... so... do any of the modelers here know if Bachmann has the motor and worm gear I need in stock?

(strange way to look for a part in stock, but... I'll play)

I did an experiment tonight.

I use the Bachmann EZ Command DCC system. I have the EZ Commander, and two "Walk Around Companions" on my layout.

So I placed all of my DCC engines on the layout tonight. (I usually run with just six DCC sound engines, one lighted car that uses track power, and one DCC sound car)

So tonight, I put them all on.

NINE DCC sound engines, ONE DC engine (the Pegasus) the light caboose (Proto 2000) and the BLI sound cattle car.

No booster... just the EZ Commander, and it's two Companions, and two jacks for the Companions.

Then I made every engine run all at once.

If ANYONE tries to tell you that the EZ Command can't handle more that two engines, then it's only because they have never used the EZ Commander system before.

I can see that there might be limitations if one was using it on a full room layout (my layout covered two walls of my room... so it's "British Big" but "American Small") and it is a point to point.

But it handled everything DCC I have.

Just wanted to share that.

This system makes me happy. It may be a bit limited (I use a Digitrax PR3Xtra on a separate programming track to program decoders, so I don't really need on track programming ability) and it does everything that I need it to do.

No complaints here.

Bachmann... you still make a great product.

Okay, so... I got a DeWitt Clinton engine from eBay a few days ago (single boxed engine and tender) and it ran when I got it... but due to it's age, was a bit loud. So I bought some oil for it... "Liberty Oil" that, according to the sales page, was specially formulated for "Bachmann engines", plastic safe... all of that. I put a drop on each axle gear (on the tender, that's where the motor is) and then attempted to run it. Now, all it does is short out the track.

Any ideas here? This is my second DeWitt Clinton with issues now (the first one, one of the drive wheels likes to fly off on the track, and if you put it back on too tight, it shorts everything out) so if it's something I can fix at home, I'd prefer it.

Okay, so... what I was told at the hobby shop was, spread the ballast, then spray it with a "wet water" made from water and alcohol, and then glue it using 50% Elmer's Glue All, and 50% water...

Now, I have to do it just a bit different, because I'm using EZ track... I need to spread some Elmer's on the roadbed, so when I spread the ballast, it sticks to the side (otherwise, because it's plastic, I will use way more ballast, as it will fall down the sides of the plastic roadbed) so I'm wondering if I still need to spray it with the wet water, or, would it be better to mix a bit of alcohol with the 50/50 white glue?

And if I do add alcohol to the 50/50, how much should I use?

I know this is probably old information, and I keep seeing a lot of conflicting videos on ballasting on Youtube, so I figured maybe someone here with ballasting experience will have some better answers.

Oh yeah, also, I should probably add I'm using a basic Proses Ballast Spreader (so no fancy levers on it, and you have to push it by hand) It's the same as the Bachmann ballast spreader. (they were out of stock on the Bachmann ones at the shop)

I just got a package from Bachmann, that I never ordered... I'm in the San Diego area, and they sent me a package of parts, that were meant to go to Minnesota (according to the packing slip)

Now what? Do I just write "return to sender" and walk it down to the post office? Does Bachmann need to be informed, so they can take care of the actual customer that paid for these parts? Will they figure it out with me returning the item, or should there be a note?

This is the SECOND brand new, unopened Plasticville building I've bought that is missing parts right out of the box... it is SO frustrating. It is the Blacksmith/Livery Stable set #2909... it was sealed, with the parts sealed on their board and bag inside as well... but, it's missing the Chimney vent (2 pieces) the chimney (2 pieces) Std. door, 2 loft pulleys, hanging sign, 3 windows, and the stall front! (I'm guessing they are all on the same parts tree)

Is there ANYWHERE to get these missing parts? Near as I can tell, this set of out of print, so I honestly don't expect much. It's just really frustrating is all.

  Okay, so... weird question, and maybe the Bach-Man, or someone else could answer it...

I recently got hold of the EZ Command Walk-Around Companion from eBay (finding one of these things is NOT an "EZ" task!) I'm really enjoying it, don't get me wrong, but, I noticed that some of the function buttons are... well... even more limited than the EZ Command itself.

Buttons 6 (F6) 7 (F7) and 8 (F8) can be used to select a loco, but, cannot be used in function mode (I have a few Digitrax equipped locos that have sounds on those functions)

  Now, at first I thought it might be a malfunction, but then I read the instructions (which, contrary to popular belief, I *DID* read before installing) and a part that didn't make sense in the instructions made more sense to me. It wasn't a malfunction, it was designed that way.

The instructions read as follows: "Additional programming functions transferred to the Companion are limited to functions F1, F2, F3, F4, and F10 (lights)"

Now, this is just fine with my "Sound Value" engines, as they don't really have much after those first four buttons plus lights anyway (bell is F1, whistle is F2, short whistle of F3, and steam release of F4, and other than F6 to dim the lights, and F8 to mute, there's nothing more to see there) However, other decoders it's a bit of a bummer, as I really like using the thing... I have it connected to a panel in the layout (Oh yeah... for those who know me, I built a layout in my absence from this board)

So my question is... "why?"

Why are those buttons limited? (why isn't that in the advertising... never mind that question...)

I'm curious if it was a programming issue? Or what the deal was?

Does anyone know? Maybe the Bach-Man can ask someone, if he doesn't already know?

Again... I'm not dissatisfied with it... i love the thing... I'm just really curious as to why the limitations? (the emergency "Stop" button doesn't do anything either, nor can you assign a loco with the Companion)

The curiosity is REALLY going to bug me! (I will have to assume that because it was designed that way, there is no fix either... like "Hey kids! You know what's better than a limited controller? One even MORE limited! w00t!")

My apologies for the snark there... I really am kinda laughing over it... and I would buy another Walk-Around Companion if I found one.

Or, the yardmaster, or anyone familiar with Bachmann  E-Z Command® Control Center.

Okay, so, my birthday was just last week (May the Fourth be with you! HA!) and i bought myself a little treat... I bought the Echo Valley Express train sets (I do love sets) so I could kinda dive (well, wade, actually) into DCC. I got it, and I loved it, and then, a friend (who didn't know I already got the Echo Valley) bought me a E-Z Command® Control Center controller, and an Alco 2-6-0 engine Sound Value (which, I wrote about in another thread... I'm LOVING it all so far) so my question is this.

Now, i know I can plug in a DC controller into the E-Z Command® Control Center... it's in the instructions, and in the video... but, and this is probably a "fat chance, get a job HIPPIE!" kinda situation, but, is it possible to plug in the other E-Z Command® Control Center? Like, running TWO E-Z Command® Control Centers at once on the same track?

Or does the second E-Z Command® Control Center just stay wrapped up as a spare, for one of those "just in case" situations? I remember once upon a time, there was a "Walk Around Companion" that didn't really let you walk around... which was still neat... I'm just wondering if there is a way, with two E-Z Command® Control Centers, that two people can run DCC engines at once using two E-Z Command® Control Centers is all.

(and because it's fun, and I said it a lot... "E-Z Command® Control Center")

I was just impressed today, and I wanted to share it here, because, honestly, ONLY model railroaders will get this (heaven knows the flat mate doesn't)

So, I have three Bachmann Alco 2-6-0s with Sound Value. Two are from the "Echo Valley Express" set (one I got with the set, the second was a birthday gift... both basic, and plastic) and the third is the one that you buy by itself (is it metal? It looks identical, but feels different, texture wise) All three Sound Value, and all three look IDENTICAL! (similar weights even)

But here's why I'm impressed... I set all three of them to the same address, just to hear all three horns, and bells at once... and then I decided to see how different their speeds are (because every model is a bit different, right?) so I moved them.

Here's the impressive part...

All three moved at the EXACT SAME SPEED! No differences... no having to adjust or anything.

To think... these two cheap Bachmann engines, and the one higher end engine (I'm assuming my price) and if I wanted to run all three in a consist, using the Bachmann EZ Commander, I could. (I won't, but, I could!)

I know, I know... such a silly thing and all, and probably old hat to most of you, but, I was just so impressed seeing three engines, all moving as one, not hooked to each other, just, a few inches apart, moving as one unit.

Anyway... I figured only fellow modelers would get it, and why that got me a bit excited. (and the folks over at Model Railroad Hobbyist Magazine suggested I post about it over here...  though, I figured most folks here probably already know this stuff)

Who am I kidding? We all know I'll be asking questions the SECOND I buy a DCC controller, or my first sound decoder...

Is there a way to take a DCC decoder (MRC 1651) and make it dual mode?

Before I bought it, I researched it, and couldn't find any information on if it could run DCC and DC (and heaven knows MRC's web site wouldn't tell me) but the seller assured me it was good for DCC AND DC. So I asked previous customers (it was Amazon) and one of the customers said yes as well... so I bought it. Before it arrived in the mail, MRC (whom I e-mailed) said it did NOT do DC (and the guy was just a bit smarmy about it... apparently EVERYONE knows that if it doesn't specifically SAY in the instructions "Dual Mode", then it won't do DC?)

Also, when I got it, it looked nothing like the pictures on the sellers site, NOR on MRC's site (all of their images, plus the seller's images show it comes with a sleeve, but it does NOT... it's bare circuit board... the smarmy guy at MRC said to just tape it, which, apparently everyone also knows) however, I want to put it into a Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 "Connie", so "just tape it" is NOT an option... so, where do I get a sleeve for a DCC decoder as well? (Oh, and neither the board on the tender, nor the plug on the decoder have any markings to indicate which way to plug it in, either)

So... any help? Please? (oh, and I will never EVER buy a damned thing from MRC again after that customer service... I should have just bought a Bachmann decoder!)

So, yeah... is there a way for it to work with DC as well as DCC, where do I get a sleeve for it, and which way do I plug it in? (though, checking these boards, I suppose if the engine doesn't move, flip it around? But then, MRC, so I don't know if doing it backwards will damage it or not)

I was hesitant to ask here, but, it *IS* going into a Bachmann engine after all, and figured someone here could help with at least one of my questions. (in fact, that's all I own so far, are Bachmann engines... ten of them now in the past two months... I swear I didn't mean to buy that many so fast!)

I really hate to just toss it into a junk drawer, but MRC was zero help, and the advice from folks here has been reliable so far...

Bachmann is now selling Ballast spreaders, and Ballast gluers, and they look really cool and all, but... does anyone know of any videos on how to use them with EZ track?

I can find PLENTY of videos on ballasting EZ track, and plenty of videos on using the Ballast spreaders on flex track... but nothing on the ballast spreaders on EZ track.

Maybe Bachmann can put up a video on their Youtube channel? I don't want to buy, if it won't work, or it won't make my life easier...

Maybe the Bach-Man knows?

What if... Bachmann included a catalogue in every train set? Not every train, mind... just the sets... you know... kids wake up to their gifts under the tree, find their first train set, and inside the set, is this glorious catalogue that shows them all of the stuff they just KNOW they MUST have someday!

I'll bet it would increase sells to the point, that Bachmann wouldn't even have to increase the cost of a set to cover the addition of the catalogue! (but even if they did have to bring up the price point for the catalogue, it could be done for under a couple of bucks)

Just a thought...

(I don't know about you folks, but catalogues in the toys I got as a kid, just made me mow more lawns to get more or the items in the catalogues!)

Has anyone run across this? Where the exploded view is not what's inside?

I just opened up a George Washington tender ( it's a 4-8-2 J2 steam locomotive and Vanderbilt tender) to see how hard it will be to install DCC sound, and the diagram shows the board screwed to the bottom of the tender, while it's actually attacked to the underside of the coal load (making it VERY hard to get to the plug) and the coal load itself is glued. Now, normally, I'd say this was the result of someone mucking about with it, but, it was a sealed set.

Is this common? (also, the tender has no holes for a speaker... it's pretty air tight once screwed together.... if anyone has any references on how to fix that, I'm all ears... well... text forum, so... all eyes?)

Okay, so... lesson learned. When it says minimum radius 22", it MEANS minimum radius 22"!

Just got my Heavy Mountain today (that I bought last month) and put it on my test track, which has an 18" curve... I get it now... it wasn't a suggestion!

Now to go buy all new track! (next month, of course)

Hey... if anyone knows of any good deals on 22" Bachmann EZ track (Nickle/Silver, of course) in the bulk 50 packs, let a guy know, maybe?

I'm curious... I don't have a layout yet (working on it) so when I run my trains, it's usually some EZ Track tossed on the bed, and run around for a few hours (I usually get all of my engines going around the track... all except the Jupiter... IT KNOW WHAT IT DID!) so I only really run them maybe once every three or four days.

So, I'm curious... how often do you folks run your trains... do you have a layout? If you're still building a layout (I hate to say "unfinished", because a layout is never really finished, but you know... no scenery yet) do you take time to run your engines, and trains on it?

A lot of us tend to buy just engines, and just cars... we build our collections, and layouts, and maybe it started with a train set, and maybe it started different, but how many of us really think about it?

So, today, I was looking in my closet, at the few boxes of "sets" I've bought recently, and it dawned on me... is there a better thrill in this hobby than that of a full train set? That big flat box, opening it, and seeing the contents inside? Those memories of the sets we had as children... or the sets we have bought our children, grandchildren, or even for ourselves?

There is just something about that box. Knowing that what's inside is all you need to run a simple train. The track, transformer, engine, and a few cars... maybe they aren't fancy, and maybe they don't look at great next to that $500 engine on the shelf, in it's shiny brass, and maybe the detail isn't the world's greatest, but, the details were still far better than any of the other toys you remember as a child.

Well, I'm off to go set up some track, and run a train around it for a bit.

Cheers!

*Whew*

Okay, so, I just got the Spectrum Baldwin 2-8-0 Consolidation (Southern Green of course, #722) off of eBay... it had never been opened, still factory sealed...

So I opened it, it had Mark I couplers, so I replaced those with the Mark II (because I have a lot of them left over) but they were separate (upon opening, I saw the couplers in a small plastic bag... I saved them for maybe some rolling stock at some point) anyway, putting the front one on was NOT easy...

So, I get it all put together, and decide to test it out...

It's on the track... I throttle up to "20"... nothing. I check the track, I move it a bit, throttle up to "30"... I hear the unmistakable whine of a free flying motor.

DAMN!

So I check again, and the wheels jerk, then free motor.

DOUBLE DAMN!

Okay... so, I panic just a bit... I check the paperwork... the "catalogue card" is for the 1998 catalogue... great... in the almost 20 years it's been on a shelf, sealed, and never opened, Ill bet the belt rotted away!

So... I can send it in, but, I'll never get the same engine back, and I kinda like that there are two Chinese women driving it... so I carefully look at the exploded view... okay, I can at LEAST check the belt. So I take it apart.

Belt is fine. Gears are metal... and they too are fine... then I notice the problem.

It is dryer than Beggar's Canyon on Tatooine! (I'm a nerd)

So, I gave it a drop of Bug Juice (gun oil) on the drive gear... kept the worm gear clean (it will get it's oil from the drive gear) put it all back together, and POOF! Runs like a champ! I haven't tested it since the "fix" on track yet, but, I went ahead and did the "break-in" on it's back on the cradle... that gave me a chance to clean the wheels (lots of factory schmutz on the drive wheels)

Now, and FYI on this engine... I had this question before I bought it, and neither the seller, nor the local train shop had an answer... IS THIS DCC READY!?!

Although the box does NOT say, I can attest to the fact that YES, it IS DCC ready... it is equipped with a dummy plug on the board in the tender, and plenty of room inside for a DCC Decoder. As for DCC sound... Although there is no seat for a speaker, and the board is attached to the weighted plate that is on the floor of the tender, there *IS* a small slit in the front of the tender, where the gates would open to release the coal for the foreman (I forget what that part is called) and from what I can see, if you used the oval speakers (that you see on a lot of Diesels, and "N" scale) it should be quite satisfying, as it will direct the sound straight to the cab, which, acoustically should be a pretty decent effect.

So... for you fans of older Spectrums, just in case you were looking at one at your hobby shop, or online, or whatever... the Baldwin 2-8-0 Consolidation (Item No 11413) in Southern Crescent Green, *IS* DCC ready, and you CAN put sound, if you get a decent, smaller speaker, and don't mind it coming out at the cab, instead of the roadbed. (Oh, and don't panic if it doesn't run at first, as all it needs is a drop of oil... if you can fit the damned coupler on the front, you can do that... I mean, hell, I almost said screw a front coupler! It was that frustrating)

So, a few weeks ago, I picked up a new Plasticville "Restaurant/Marshal's office" set, and had a lot of fun building it, and will probably weather, or at least detail it, as it seems... well... plastic (I suppose that's sort of the point... I mean, it's IN the title) and then yesterday, a friend sent me some Old West stuff (as I'm modeling the Old West for my layout) and one of the items is the same set, but, from the 70s or 80s.

WOW what a difference... okay, sure, the instructions had no diagrams, but they were still easy enough, but, the... well... the quality is amazing on the older one! Don't get me wrong, it's still mostly the same set... the stickers are a bit different, plus there's the "wanted poster" which isn't in the newer set, but the colours.. I don'[t need to paint, or weather at all with the older set, plus... what looked like something missing in the new set (four holes on the back porch, but only three items to plug into them) is because there *IS* something missing... the minifigs. The older set had three old west figures... two to plug into holes on the front, and a sitting guy for the back.

I would LOVE to see some of these older sets come back... and more Old West sets would be grand as well. Other companies don't do snap together, which is a shame, and Bachmann just doesn't seem to have a lot of Old West stuff like they used to.

I have been having a BLAST building these models (even the new stuff) so I'll still be buying anything I can get.

So, a quick question... what other Old West Plasticville kits are out there? I have the Restaurant/Marshal's office... and I've seen a vintage "Bank/Saloon" set... are there any more offered by Bachmann? (and yeah, I've seen the sets from other companies, but am having fun with the whole snap fit bit right now)

So, I bought the book, and don't get me wrong, I love it... there are LOTS of ideas, and tips in it, and some good photo work of some great layouts, and I am quite addicted to EZ track (I have no layout, so I have a lot of EZ track, so when I want to run my trains, I can just toss some track down, and watch them go) and when I do make my layout, I do want to use EZ track.

The book just has one really big fault (well, for me at least... I've seen reviews where some folks don't care for any of it)

That fault lies in "Appendix A - Previously Published Layouts"

I LOVE some of these layouts (especially #13, which, would be perfect for my simple layout, and I even thought of maybe putting a spur, or maybe a bypass at the top) HOWEVER, what is missing is a footprint.

If I try to do #13, will it fit on a 4x8 piece of plywood? (probably not)

None of the layouts in that (in my opinion, rather important part of the book) has any information on how much space they will take up!

Maybe that information can be put into the next printing (or at the very least, a web site with that information)

I was recently told that there are SOME Bachmann engines that are DCC only, that cannot be run on DC track. Seeing how I only have a DC controller (until I can afford a DCC one... so far, I keep spending my money on trains, and never have enough for a new controller) what should I be looking out for, to make sure when I buy engines, they are compatible with DC as well as DCC? (I do plan to get a DCC controller, but, that's a "in a few months from now" decision)