About says it.  I didn't get the manual or any docs with this used Mogul.  Looking for tips, disassembly visuals before axle swap.  Thanks, Dennis

I have a Spectrum G 2-6-0, Item No. 81492, painted, unlettered, black.  Got it from one of our club member's estate.  Won't run; motor spins.  I have replacement axles, (one with brass gear), but before I get into it, I'm curious if it is an early/original version, or if Bachmann upgraded these with model changes over the year.  Any way to tell?  I did find the nice Loco Bill tutorial for this repair.  Thank you!!  Associated photos for the article seem to be now unavailable - wish I had them.  I also got no manual with this engine - any available on line?  Bachmann website does not seem to offer anything.  Thanks, Dennis 

This ought to be easy.  Got my new On30 little Heisler.  Does the factory installed coal load and, "fence," remove by just pulling up?  Parts diagram suggests that but I am so careful with the little fella, I don't want to force anything.
?? 

Just ordered a single, (one in one box), tank car, p/n 27198.
Also ordered a pair, (two in one box), tank car, P/n 26521.
Huge difference in size. 
Why? 
Both billed as On30.
Just differences in prototype railroad build size? 
Nice cars;  like'em OK.  No problem there.
I don't understand size difference.
Thanks for tips,
Dennis

This is a followup from my recent post regarding early production/version 2-truck Shay chuff contact question.  Respondents suggested removal of the cylinder set.  Some before me had discovered the secret to removal were the two hour-glass lobes-on-posts visible inside the firebox.  Bachmann's concept was the lobe being hour-glass shape would fit through a mating keyed hole in firebox, and once inside the lobe could be turned 90-degrees or so, it's screw tightened and that became part of securing the cylinders to the locomotive.  With the screws loosened, ( and that requires an off-set Phillips and patience), MY lobe would not budge.  Worried I'd break it.  What was I missing?  Interestingly, I'd bought a brand new cylinder set from Bachmann months ago.  I grabbed that to see what it would reveal.  Yup, lobes-on-post were there.  Loosened screw, tried turning.  Not a chance!!  Felt like it was all welded in place.  Could not see any parting lines in moldings.  Also that is a long screw in there; part of what holds the cylinder base molding together.  So back to my project Shay.  Mind you, I've got 3 or 4 hours now fussing with this.  One lobe on my Shay was already positioned to exist the keyway.  Other nearly so.  Hmmm.  Wonder if someone's been in here?  (Used Shay)  So only one requires movement....and only a few thousandths of an inch.  Finally risked breaking it and turned harder with long-nose.  Got it to move just enough to get cylinders OFF the loco.  Whew.  The short story and answer here is that all of these on my two cylinder sets were so dry and tight, they were locked stuck.  I put a tiny drop of plastic compatible lube where each lobe-post met the rear of the cylinder base and waited a while.  Got brave and with parallel smooth jaw pliers, began working them.  Each produced a faint, "squawk, then came loose.  Worked them all free.  So some day, some of you will encounter this.  And since I've viewed every, "tips," and youtube helps I can find this week, None mentioned this.  Hope it will help one of you some day. 
Second, the reason for all my efforts is because in rebuilding my Shay toward DCC, I'd checked continuity with a VOM on every wire in this locomotive looking for the chuff contacts.  NEVER found a pair that revealed make-and-break continuity as I rotated the cylinder drive lines.  Never.  Now that I have everything out I see that my chuff contacts are not working at all.  Pulled cylinder heads off - and they work.  So I'll have to play with re-tensioning/bending springs until it becomes as reliable as I can make it.  PS:  my NEW cylinder set shows continuity ALL the time, so it will have to have attention some day too and be adjusted properly. 

Subject says it all, mostly.  I have one of the earliest Shays and am just rebuilding it.  If it has chuff contacts anywhere I haven't found them yet.  Anyone know?  Thanks, Dennis

I'm writing this here because I see very little traffic on the DCC forum.  A few years ago when I got my first Bachmann On30 Porter and 2TShay I later got the cheap B'mann E-Z Command DCC set.  Cheap is right, but it works and introduced me to DCC.  Shortly after that I bought 3 little Bachmann DCC chips with pigtails and tiny 8-pin connectors.  Never used them.  New in bag.  Will they plug into my 2TShay, Climax and, most especially, my recent 2-6-6-2 that apparently has NO DCC on board?  (One of the TrainWorld $99 buys)  Thought I'd ask experts here before I tear into the locomotives and make a mistake.
Mainly wondering if I can use or have to throw away these 3 new chips.  i.e., what are they good for currently?
Thanks, Dennis

OK, I'm mostly On30 and G, but my family gave my 90 year old favorite Uncle a Bachmann HO Chattanooga Train set for Father's Day and he's having trouble wiring in switches.  He is 300 miles from me but I'm going there in 2 weeks.  I have a left-over hand full of BMn E-Z track sections, and I'll take them along with another locomotive to give him.  My Cousin there said on the 'phone he got my Uncle 2 electric switches, (turnouts), but can't get them to work electrically.  I presume the low-end power pack has 16V AC for accessories, but cannot confirm.  Also don't know if he has push-buttons, etc. 

Looking for tips as to what I should round up and take with me besides wire, track sections, etc.  Is the Chattanooga set even capable of handling turnouts?

Thoughts appreciated,
Dennis