I have all brand new Bachmann track, turnouts, engines and running stock and I continually have trouble with the loco and especially the cars not following the turnout that is set for a straight thru run. For example, My loco and the first two cars go straight and then the next car decides to go the way of the turn out. Upon inspection the turnout is still  positioned exactly for a straight thru run. Occasionally my diesel loco will try to turn even though the turnout is straight. Can anyone shed some light on how to fix my problem. I have already bent up all the disconnect coupler wires that hang low to the track to make sure they didn't hit anything. Heck, I don't even know what the problem is other than constant derailments. And its inconsistent, sometimes it works great for several runs, and then derails and on various turnouts.


2nd question, my brand-new Bachmann 40' cars are at the proper weight. Would it help, or hinder, to add a bit more weight?

To solve my uncoupling problem I'm replacing all of my Bachmann couplers with Kadee couplers. As was suggested on this web forum. My problem now is that when I go to tighten down the screw that holds the cover over the couple, it pinches the couple shaft and the coupler can't move side to side, unless I back off the screw. I'm afraid to run that way as the screw may vibrate out. In eyeballing the thickness of each coupler shaft, the Kadee looks to be a bit thicker, thus the reason it pinches when I reassembly it. I thought about filing a bit off of the Kadee shaft, but don't know if that's wise. Any suggestion how to fix this?

I have brand new Bachmann rolling stock and they continually come uncoupled. Everything is brand new and brand new flat track. They come uncoupled but not at the same place. I checked the couplers height and they are all exactly the same height. I read on another message board that one guy simply throws away the Bachmann couplers as junk and replaces them with Kadee. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

I bought a brand new Bachmann Diesel and Bachmann passenger cars (HO) and they uncouple from the engine when running. I checked the diesel couple height and it is right on but the height of the passenger cars is far too low. I don't want to lower the couple on the engine because then it will not match my other rolling stock. How can I raise the coupler on the Bachmann passenger cars? I thought about lower the truck, with a washer, but don't know if that's a good idea or not.

My passenger cars:  Bachmann #13504 Durango & Silverton Combine #213 Home Ranch

I'm running two Bachmann and one Walther's locomotives using  an NCE Procab. I know I can disable the sound using #8, but that is only temporary. How can I disable the sound permanently, without it affecting anything else?  My Lionel locomotive O gauge had a simple switch and volume control, so easy. Also, how to control the volume "permanently."

I bought a brand new Bachmann 54303 HO Pennsylvania 2-8-2 Mikado w/Medium Tender w/Sound & DCC #9630 and it derails on the EZ Track curves that have the power connection. This power connector track should realign the wheels but instead the locomotive and tender derail. Diesels work just fine. I have checked all track connections etc. Its too late for a refund, any help would be appreciated.

I have a defective Bachmann HO turnout and when I connect a new turnout switch, it kills the new switch. Using my multi-meter, you normally see nothing from center pole of output to either side pole, until you move the switch, then you momentarily see 16v. After I connect the new turnout switch to my defective turnout, I try to work the switch and nothing. Then I remove the turnout cable from the switch, the voltage now on the new turnout switch outputs poles is reading a constant 16v, both sides and operating the switch does nothing. I killed three turnout switches this way until I learned what is happening. The defective turnout must somehow short out and burn out some type of component in the Bachmann turnout switch???

I can't find any Bachmann turnout switches to buy. Where do I buy them? Or do you recommend another brand of turnout switch? I have 21Bachmann HO EZ Track turnouts (including two crossovers).

I have 21 Bachmann turnouts and am going to add 21 Atlas Snap relays to operate 21 block signals (red & green) at each turnout. Do I wire the Snap 200 relays in parallel or in series or combination of both, and how many on a single 16v circuit?

You guys/gals are the true experts and I sure could use some good advice.

I just completed a new train layout and used 100% Bachmann  E  Z Track (HO). My problem is the constant derailments at the crossover. And yes, my track and wheels are clean and brand new. I have weighted the cars to regulation standards. I have a Bachmann Stream Engine and the Tender will derail at the turnout with, or without any additional rolling stock. My diesel engine, running by itself, has no problem.

I've completely given up on trying to go in reverse in these turnout with rolling stock as derailments with rolling stock is 100%. Are these turnouts junk and I made a big mistake or is there some kind of fix or adjustment I can make.?

If this has already been addressed please direct me to that thread of emails. I'm desperate for a solution and need your help, thanks, Jim 

I just installeld 20 Bachmann turnouts and realized I really need green & red lights to give me the position of the turnout. Can you tell me how to install green & red LED's at each turnout? When I operate the switch I noticed there is a small lever on the side of the turnout that moves (the manual switch). Can I somehow use that to operate a snap switch of some kind. I really need help here.

I watched the Internet on how to do a reverse loop. First; put insulating rail joiners on all four tracks, I got that part, then wire in the polarity reversing module. My question, after the put on all four insulating joiners, can't I just run a new power lead to the now dead section of track (the loop), instead of using the expensive reversing modules?

I'm using HO E Z track on a new layout and want to know how often (distance in feet) I need to power the track? Also, do I need to solder the rail joiners?

I need 6" straight track to fit my new layout. Can I cut G gauge, hollow tin (not brass) track. If I can, how do I put on the track connectors and where do I get the plastic track pins? Thanks. Jim D.

I'm new to RR'ing and am planning a G scale layout in my basement to be a shelf mount next to the ceiling. The room is 42" x 12'. One of the 42' walls is not where I want a train track so I'm thinking about using the same track on the other 42' wall for running the train in both directions. That means I need some type of switch to make a loop back. Are there automatic switches to do this or any other type of switch that you would recommend? Thanks, Jim

I have spent many hours on the Internet reading blogs and I have enough information to now be thoroughly confused.  I'm new to railroading and want to set up a G train & track in my basement. I plan to put a 6" shelf close to the ceiling and it will only be a simple loop with no intersections.  From my reading I understand that I must use at least a 4'Radius corner to handle diesels locomotives and look realistic. My room is 42' x 12' and I plan two 4'R corners  on the one end, and the other end will be a 6'R ½ circle.
My questions:
1. Is my understanding so far correct? Is a 6" shelf the minimum size I can put up?
2. Since its indoors, should I use steel or brass. Brass is much cheaper but I heard it requires a lot of cleaning? What do you suggest for indoors?
3. I don't want to get into bending flex track, so can I buy 4'R & 6'Radius corners pre made in both brass and steel?
Any other suggestions to this new railroad modeler will be greatly appreciated.
Jim