Hello together!
I have a question about the details of the cab interior of the Bachmann Connie.
I want to give it more details.
Inside on the engineer side is only the Johnson Bar and some valve stand for the brake.
There is nothing else to "drive" the loco.... as far as I can see no chance to regulate the steam...
Has anyone some some drawing / Photo from the operating equipment of a Connie?
Thanks

Udo

Dear all,
I have a Bachmann Spectrum Heisler "Little River Logging No 5".
This one has no air tank and air pump.
As I know, Bachmann also made some Heislers with equipment like this...
Now I want to upgrade mine.
So I need some more information.
I would appreciate, if someone has some Photos from both sides, where I can see the air tanks, the compressor and the relevant piping.
I would also like to know the length and the diameter of the air tanks (in Millimeter).

Thanks a lot for your help!

Udo

Hi all together!
I have one question regarding the tenders of the 4-4-0 and the 2-6-0.
In front of the tender, on the top on both sides are small hand wheels and a lever on each.
Can somebody tell me something about the purpose?
Udo from China

Hello together !
I have some general questions about the prototypes of 3-truck shays.
What is the purpose of the pipe cranking over from the first to the second tender?
Has that something to do with the equipment for taking water on the way?
As far as I can see, the Bachmann locos are "oil fired".
Firts tender = oil bunker, second = water. Correct?
Did they also use 3-truck shays coal fired ?

Thanks for the help and information in advance!

Udo

Hello together !
Just now I got my long caboose.
To get something like this here in the country where it is "born" (China) is not easy.
Bachmann Dealers are not of great help. They just sell, what they have in stock...
I got mine via a dealer in HK, who got it from Walthers.

But, that is not the question. I am very happy to have it.
The real question is:
Are the inside lights "prototypical"? Not regarding the accuracy of the table lights, they look very nice...
but regarding the number of lights inside the car.
No lights in the cupola or under the ceiling ?
No lights on the platforms ?

May be somebody can give me some hints!

Thanks,

Udo

Hello together !

I am just painting my Jackson & Sharp kits (passenger cars, combine and full baggage car).
During that work, some questions came up:

Full baggage car:
There are two separating walls in the kit. Why ? Isn't one enough?
The floor plate has two round holes, one in each compartment, close to the separating walls, diameter 12 Millimeter, for what ?

Combine:
There was no separating wall in the kit.
Is that standard, or is this wall missing in the kit?

I will not have a problem with the missing wall, I will just use one of the walls of the full baggage car.

By the way, the doors to the platforms at the end of all the cars don't have inside structure.
I will just make a foto of the outside (ready painted), print out the same size on Foto paper and glue it from the inside. I have made two cabooses like that already, looks good.

Udo

Hello together !

Yesterday I found a problem with my "old" K27.
During running forward, the left side marker light started blinking irregularly. The marker lights were not switched on.
When driving backwards, no problem.
After removing the boiler I found the reason:

In the boiler, just over the flywheel is a PC board which is connected with a plug and a lot of cables going there.

That harnish was too close to the flywheel so that it scratched on the cables and damaged them already.
I just made a "half pipe" of thin plastic material, fixed with the motor bracket to cover the top of the flywheel and keep the cables away from it.
Now it's OK.
I must check my second K27...

This is a warning to K27 owners...
Have a look, that you don't meet that kind of problem with your beautiful engine !

Enjoy it running !

Udo

Hello together !

Has somebody an idea about the use of the small parts packed in the additional plastic bag in the box?
Most of them I know, but one part is strange for me.
In the bag with the tools and oil cans etc, there is a black beam about 80mm long, an U-profile with a hole on each end.
What is that for ?

Udo

Hello All !

I wish you have or had a nice holiday running your trains under the Christmas tree !

I got two Jackson sharp coaches (kits) and one combine and a "full baggage" car for Christmas.
Because I did not want to wait until I have them all painted, I just assembled them in "running condition" to try and imagine how it looks behind a loco.

On looking closer to the cars, I have one question:
The seats in the cars are arranged all in one direction (Stove and toilet in the back).
The combine has the same arrangement, there the passenges look in the direction to the baggage compartment. That means, the baggage compartment is in the front of the car.
So, is it correct, that the baggage cars were always behind the loco ?
From German trains I know, that the baggage cars were mostly at the end of the train.
Here it seams that the last car was a coach....?
Did they turn the cars also when they changed direction of the train ?

By the way, in my combine kit one middle wall (passenger compartment / baggage compartment) was missing, but the full baggage car kit has two of them ....?

May be somebody can give me some answers.....

I wish all of you a succesful new year with your trains !

Udo

Hello together !

As I told in my earlier posting, I have disassembled the chassis of my K27 for repainting.
I did this to make the beautiful details better visible.
I have coosen a German color sheme with red frame.
During reassembly I found that the cross beam (item BU02) which connects both sides of the spring system in the front of the chassis has no space to move correctly.
It touches on both sides the frame with the center spring early complete compressed.
So I ground the frame on the top a little bit to make space for the cross beam.
Now the springs are also in a horizontal position after assembly and the center spring can do it's work.

I try to attache a foto of the improved condition.

Udo

Hello Bachmann, Hello Members of the Forum !

I have disassembled the complete Chassis of my K 27 and also successfully reassembled it after repainting.
But there is one part which I have "rest" and don't know where it should be assembled:

Rear pilot axle assembly:

There are 3 springs 10205 shown in the Drawing.
Tow of them are the vertical suspension for the axle, mounted within the boxes of the frame item OAU02. They re shown vertically in the drawing.
But there is another one, shown above the electrical connectors in horizontal position.
This one is the one which I don't know where it should come.
Because it is a single one, it should be anywhere in the center.....

All the assembly is working properly without this spring also......

By the way, there is another small problem.

I need some of the covers for the central screw of the counter weights (item No. MT 100, damaged during disassembly) and also some of the rivets for the spring system as spares (MT 47Z).
Where can I get these parts?
Because I am living in China, is it possible to get them there?

Best regards,

Udo

Hello together !

I often had problems with derailing on LGB turnouts (R3), when the engine "opens" the turnout itself.

In principle, these LGB turnouts are very convenient, because the engine itself can switch the turnout and runs in the other direction when it comes back (e.g. a 8 shape layout with two turnouts instead of a crossing).

My engines often derailed in a layout like that.

I found two different solutions, depending on the engine type:

1. K27 and 2-6-6-2
These engines have in principle quite similar systems to hold the pilot wheels down.
There is always a small pin which is supported inside or downside by a spring. That pin presses to the frame.
I just put another spring (stronger one) with inside diameter similar to the outside diameter of the pin outside on the pin, secured on top with a washer (inside diameter of the pin) and glued the washer to the pin.
The outside Spring is a little shorter than the pin, so it will work only, after the original spring already started. So you have something like a "progressive" spring.

It works perfect on both locos.

2. For others, e.G. Big haulers or 4-4-0 (American), in the forum always was recommended to use lead to make the pilots heavier.
All the proposals used lead from fishermen equipment.

I also use lead, but I get it from the Car wheels.

I just use used balancing weights from a tire dealer.
They have the advantage that they are mostly flat and rectangular, so you can easy staple them if you need more weight.
When they balance a wheel, they always remove the old weights, and scrap them, but for us this scrap can be usefull.

I also used them to make a scratchbuilt loco heavier. Just make a plastic box, staple the lead inside and fill up the plastic box with carpenters glue (a little thinned with water) and let it dry, so you get a heavy block, with all the lead glued together.

I hope, somebody may appreciate this hints,

Best regards,

Udo

Hello Bachmann,

some time ago, I asked you for support with some sapres to make my 2-6-6-2 running smooth.

As I live in China, I was thinking, I am close to the origin of the loco, so it would be easy......

You could not help me for some contacts....

But you could "alarm" the factory earlier for some loose srews.....

I found out a contact at Bachmann China Shanghai.

They tried to help. They transferred my mail to the "factory".

Meanwhile I got an answer:

"No spares available in the factory"

Do you call that "after sales service" ?

I have the feeling, that the "factory" is just a subcontractor without any after sales responsibility.

Best regards,

Udo

Hello Bachmann,

sometime ago I asked already in  the Forrum, if somebody has a wiring diagram for the optical sensors of the 2-6-6-2.

Up to now, no reply.....

What I need to know is which type of signal (Voltage etc.) comes from this sensors on the chuff ports.

I want to use both the sensors for an ESU Sound system.

By the way, the sensors in the K 27 have 3 cable, the ones in the 2-6-6-2 have 4 cables.

What is the difference ?

I think, Bachmann as supplyer should have an answer !?

Udo

Hello All,

does somebody have a wiring diagram and the technical data for the optical chuff sensors, used in the 2-6-6-2 ?

This would be great help fore me!

Udo

Hy Bachmann and all!

When I look at my 2-6-6-2 (wich I like very much) and the two people deliverd with this loco,

one question comes up:

How do they reach the filling hole between the sand dome and the steam dome for refill of the water ?

There are no laders / rails or platforms......

I think, it is a very difficult and dangerous job, especially for the small engineer !

May be somebody has an idea to upgrade the loco !?

Udo

Hello Bachmann,

some weeks ago, I bought a 2-6-6-2 in Shanghai.

There was some problem with loose bolts at the motor of the rear truck. I have posted this at that time and you have "alarmed" the factory already.

Meanwhile I disassemble the drive (motor and gear box) again, cleaned it and assembled it with fresh grease (LGB Grease, because the Bachmann shops in Shanghai are very poor with the suplly of things like this).

The gear box itself is running smooth now, but after complete assembly, I found out that the drive make some squeezing noise when going faster, it is loud if you go forward, and more silent backwards.

So I disassemble the boiler gain, to have a close look while running.

I found out, that the motor shaft is going a littel bit up and down when running slow (axila direction).

I suppose, ther is some distortion in the shaft, so the worm gear is not going smooth in the gear.

I will disassemble that drive again to check the radial run out of the motor itself.

If that will not work, do I have the chance to get some spares from Bachmann Shanghai, e.g. motor with gear box ?

Because I have already installed decoder and so on, I don't want to give the loco back for exchange.

May be it's also possible to buy a complete rear truck there, so I can use the old one for spares / scratch building.

Thanks for your support in advance,

Udo

Hello all friends of the 2-6-6-2 Mallet !

Today I found by chance a seriuos problem on my loco (purchased last week in Shanghai at Bachmann).

I removed the boiler, just to have a look for the planned installation of a sound decoder.

Because I am an engineer, I touch everything to find out, if it is well fixed.

So I also touched the motor of the rear truck. It was shaking!

After dissmounting the truck from the loco and dissassembling the motor holder (6 srews, not 4 as desribed in the manual), I found out that the two screws, which fix the motor from downside to that holder, were loose!

I repaired that thing, but I want to tell everybody who has such a loco, to carefully check the motor fixation.

I think, if one bolt falls into the gearbox, this will cause serious damage.

I hope, that will help.

By the way, if you have very thin and long finger, you can check if the motor is shaking also without dismantling the boiler !

Udo

Dear Bachmann,

I am an unpatient guy, so I could not wait for any information about installing ESU decoders in the 2-6-6-2.

Over the weekend, I just tried.

I used the additional prewired board from the acessory bag an just connected a ESU lok pilot (without sound) as described in your advice for the K27.

It was working perfect, motion / loghts etc.

I worried a littel bit to use the same bord in the K27, because the installed dummy boards look quite different.

The description in the manuals of both locos regarding the pin configuration are nearly the same, despite some minor difference (the 2-6-6-2 has two chuff connections).

So I just ried to plug the board from the 2-6-6-2 with the connected ESU lok pilot into the K 27.

It was working !

Motion / lights/ steam OK.

In the moment I cannot try the same with the ESU Loksound decoder, because I don't have them, I am waiting for it.

But to be prepared, I have some question:

The K27 has two optical sensors, one in each cylinder.

On the board you can choose by a jumper two or four chuffs per revolution.

The 2-6-6-2 also has two optical sensors, but in different drives (high / low pressure).

So, if I use the "Chuff 1" connection I have only two chuffs per revolution, correct ?

My question is: can I just put "Chuff 1" and "Chuff 2" together in the same input at the decoder to get 4 chuffs ?

That means in the K27 the jumper just connects the two sensors, correct ?

By the way, today I made a second prewired board with the cabling just like that from the 2-6-6-2 to be prepared for the installation in the K27. That material cost me less than 50 cents (I could make three bords out of that).

Thanks in advance for your comments !

Udo

Hello all,

I am new in this forum.

I am a German who lives in China close to Shanghai.

Earlier in Germany I was a fan of G track (LGB). Here in China, I found out, that Bachmann is here.

So I started my old hobby with the equipment of Bachmann.

First I purchased a stater packes (Bachmann Circus train), which was well working on the enclesed circle, but did not satisfy my whishes.
Then I have seen in the Bachmann shop Shanghai an "American 4-4-0" which I immediatetly bought.

But that was not working on the narrow radius added to my circus tarin. So I had to buy LGB tracks "R3".

Later I had a trip to Germany and bought some control unit from "Lenz" and some decoders from ESU.

After installing that, the two locos were running very well with DCC.

But, now, the "Bachmann Fever" got me.

I have besides some wagons purchased a K 27 and a Mallet 2-6-6-2.

Because i want to use ESU decoders only, I have ordered some ESU Loksound XL via a dealer in Hong Kong. He is a good guy and very helpfull.

The decoders did not yet arrive and I am waiting for that.

Meanwhile I looked in the internet how to install that devices in the Bachmann locos.

The K 27 seams not to be a problem. Bachmann has a nice instruction for that.

But, as I unpacked my 2-6-6-2, I found out, that there is some difference in the dummy board.

So I have some question:

can I install the ESU Loksound XL in the same way as in the K27 (that menas using the additional prewired board and connect as described for the K 27)?

May be somebody has made some experience with that stuff.

There is another question regarding the K 27.

My loco does not have any track power supply in the tender.

Only the loco itself gets the track power.

I have bought this one about two month ago in Shanghai Bachmann shop Wuding Road.

Has that already the new counterweights ?

Thanks for anybodiesw help in advance !!

Udo