Hey guys, what is the smallest radius that one would want to run on n scale. I need to set up a layout on  maybe a 4x6 for my grandson and he will want as much track, sidings, turnouts etc, as i can put on it. thanks, david

Hey guys! I am putting in a fairly long span bridge with concrete abutments. What colors have you used for old weathered concrete? I cut all the bridge and supports out of wood so that is what i will be painting. Is there a specific color i can buy or is there something i can mix? Thanks ahead of time for any advice....David

 Any of you guys that have made a river ever used Magic water? I have formed a river out and painted varnish onto my base, which is plywood. I want my river to be fairly clear. What colors do i use for the bottom? Will the varnish seal good enough? I.m pretty well set on using the magic water so that's not the issue. Just dive right in, pardon the pun! thanks, David

How about some more advice!
Based on info from you guys i have decided to change a couple of switches out in order to run a new steam loco. I have seen some hand laid ones on ebay that look good. I know some of you guys lay your own. Would one of those be better than a "store bought" one from Atlas or others. I am using code 83 track, although i don't think that matters. I'm not ready to start that aspect of modeling yet, mainly because of time constraints. In other words, my grandson is impatient! What say ye?    thanks in advance, david

Just purchased one of these. I love the engine but it just doesn't seem to go through the turnouts without derailing. Does anyone else have that same problem? Why is that? i can run my diesel engines all day with no problems. I have all atlas snap switches except one Walthers curved switch. The two wheels on the front are the problem. Right now i'm running it with the 2 front wheels off. Also the drawbar just slips over the post on the tender and doesn't seem like it stays hooked as it should. Anybody out there? thanks, david

Could someone tell me if it makes a difference in pulling power if the steam locos have more wheels. I think ones with more wheels (drive?) look a lot better. Which numbers do better if any? I am just talking about from Spectrum on down in cost. Thanks, David

Have any of you guys ever tried one of these? I have been wanting to go to dcc but am not interested unless i can get a system with 5 amps. I just don't think i would be satisfied with anything less. However, i don't have the money to purchase one quite yet. The sound box sounds like i could use it for a while, without spending much money, and get sounds and a horn. That way i could hold off on purchasing a dcc system as well as loco's and still have sound for my dc engines while i continue to work on my layout. I have a grandson who is really looking forward to hearing the diesel engine. I have read some pretty good product reviews elsewhere but value your input. thanks, david

Hey guys, whose system would you recommend, Bachmann, Digitrax, Nce, Mrc? Lhs guy says some don't have enough amps to blow horns,etc. How many amps are needed when you have roughly 60 to 65 feet of track and probably won/t run over a couple of trains. Really interested in sound on locos. talk to me, thanks david

Hey guys, if i decided i just wanted to have sound on my dc loco could i just buy a loco with sound and run it on my track and it work? I have a mrc 1500 tech 11 power pack. Would that work? Which models work better for sound? Bachmann, Atlas ? I think dropping in a sound decoder would probably cost around a 100 bucks? Is that right? How much would a decent sound loco cost? just wondering......

In preparing to ballast my atlas code 83 track I have been reading old topics on this forum and others on ballasting. I have seen a ballast spreader for sale on e-bay that has a hopper that you move along the rails to spread the ballast. Has anyone used that and does it work? opinions welcomed, thanks, david

Suppose a guy had a dc layout up and running, what would he have to do to convert it to DCC? It is it pretty simple or pretty complicated. I know about converting the engine or purchasing a new one. What about wiring, controls etc. Same ppk's ? Just wondering. thanks, david

I will be up in Williamsburg Va. and D.C. areas in a few weeks. Are there some good model train shops in those areas that someone goes to that are good for HO scale stuff? thanks, david

Help! I am trying to isolate 2 short sections of track. One is to park my switcher while train is in operation and one is to park my loco while my switcher is making up trains. I have a single outer loop track with an inner turnout with sidings for cars. I have wired up a test track and connected the spst switch in between track and power pack but i can't get it to change direction. How do i wire this up correctly? Will i need to use separate switches for each section? thanks in advance for responding, david

What size wheel do i need to get to replace a bent wheel on my Emd bachmann loco? It's the Mckinley Alaskan Exployer model. I think some are 33 and some are 36 for freight and passenger? Are all ho engines the same on the wheels? thanks, david

Do you guys operate switches off of the same power source as your track? thanks

I wanted to know from you guys, when you lay regular track do you solder every 9 inch section? Do you solder then at all or do you just glue then to the roadbed? thanks

Thanks for the responses on my question. Here is my solution. I used some 3/16 thick masonite. I used it to cut out a form to make my inclines. Since i only needed to go up to 1-1/4 inches i cut the pieces on a taper from 1-1/4 down to 0. This put me on a slope of slightly more than 2 %. I taper cut the sides on the bandsaw, set them up along the path of the track 2 inches apart with supports screwed down on the outsides of the "rails". This created a form for the track. I took regular insulating foam in a can (the rigid type) and sprayed the form to overflowing. After allowing proper curing time of 8 hours, i used a serrated blade to trim off the excess by cutting along the rails of my form. Previously I had taped the rails on the inside so as to eliminate any sticking when i removed the form. Worked perfectly. Using scrap wood i only had to buy the spray foam, which cost about 4 bucks. I'm gonna use it to make my incline on the inside of my layout also.

I am struggling with how to support my ho track as i ascend and descend on the curved incline on opposite ends of my layout. I am only elevating to 1 and1/4 inches and back to flat. I am using cork roadbed under the track. I have 22 degree radius on my turns. I am having trouble fabricating something suitable, (although i have much experience as a woodworker),  that will support the cork on the turns. Do i need to use roadbed under the track on the curves? It would be much easier just to make supports at each joint if not? What do you guys do?  thanks in advance, david

will all the trains equipped with dcc also run on dc? If not, which mfg.'s do? thanks ahead of time, david

i am trying to make sure my incline is not too steep for my train. I know (from you guys) it takes 12 feet to get 3 inches on a 2% grade. That works out to 1/4 inch per foot. I need to get down in 10 feet from 3 and 1/4 inches which i don"t think will be a problem. But, will that be enough to go back up? It would seem to me that i could allow 5/16 per foot and do it in 10 feet. Could i? thanks, david