Was wondering if any one out there has come up w/ a quick "plug & play" connector that would allow one to connect the yellow wire from one motor to the blue wire of the other motor w/o cutting, taping, etc.,  the wires, thus, allowing a EZ hook-up and reversal.......

Anyone?

GTBob

Need some help here....Just converted my Williams GP-9 & FP-45 locos to series wiring.  FP-45 works great--no problems whatsoever.  The GP-9 works fine EXCEPT the horn/bell.  When activated you can barely hear the the horn/bell.  Before changing to series, the horn/bell was loud and clear.  I've checked all connections, etc., and cannot find anything wrong.  I also ran the GP-9 on the loop the FP-45 runs on---same problem, poor horn/bell sound.  The problem is connected to the GP-9, but I'm at a loss to find why......

Anybody got any ideas what could be wrong?

Thanks,

Bob

Decided to modify my 5906 as outlined in previous posts by Joe Satnik and others.  Here is what I did:

1. Take 5906 apart (2 screws on bottom, usually covered up w/ a label).
2. Permanentally disable the weak, anemic and poorly constructed Normally Closed (N.C.) switch.  I placed a plastic clip cover over the smallest part of the 2 part switch.  Or you can simply bend the largest part of the switch out of the way.  Either method will break the switches ability to make contact.  The switch is now in a permanent Normally Open (N.O.) position---this is what you want.  Throw away the plastic button and spring--you woan't need them any more.
3.  Remove the thin red 22 ga. wire--replace it w/ a 2' (or what ever you think you'll need) 18 gauge stranded red wire.  Do the same w/ the black wire, replacing it w/ 18 gauge black stranded wire.  You need only novice soldering skills to do this.  Close up the housing making sure the red and black wires are free and o/s the 5906.
4.  I mounted this housing under my layout and ran the R & B wires thru a hole up into a Radio Shack "Project Box" (P# 270-1801) mounted about 3 inches from my ZW  trans.  I then installed a Ace Hdwr. 3 amp Normally Closed (N.C.) momentary SPST push button switch (P#3023728) between the two wires (bridging the wires).  You must plan the location of this switch because you need enuf wire to run from beyond the switch to your trans and middle track wire.  Then hook up red wire to trans + post and black wire to middle rail feed.  Whalla--you're done.

Hold the button down for about a second and the bell starts making sounds.  The loco does pause briefly until the bell starts, but is back up to original speed almost  immediately.  It stays on until you push the button again for a second or so.  I modified both my 5906 units and placed both switches in the RS box.  All 3 of my WbW and WbB diesel locos work and sound great w/  this modification---This is surely an improvement over the original 5906.

GTBob

Right now my WbB GP9 runs at about 40 scale mph using 8.1 volts (w/ a Lionel Postwar ZW Trans.).  IF I switched the motors to run in series-----About how much voltage would it take to run at the same scale speed?

Anybody out there have any idea?  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks in advance....

Regards,

GTBob

Finally got around to trying out my new WBB Rock Island GP9 loco.  Everything appears to be operating properly EXCEPT the head lights (front & rear).  At about 10 volts to the track the lights are extremely dim.   I'm at a loss to explain why...
I have a WBB GP38 loco and a WBW FP45 loco that both exhibit very bright head lights w/ 10 volts to the track.  It's almost like the GP9 has 18 volt bulbs??

Does anyone out there know what voltage light bulbs should be used in the WBW diesel locos??  I'm sure they must all take the same bulb.  Any help regarding my problem would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Bob

Just rec'd my new WbB Rock Island GP-9 loco today.  Can't wait to put her on the tracks for a go around.  Unfortunately, my layout is partially torn up so the tryout will have to wait a few days or so.  She certainly is a beaut....  I feel like a kid again.....

Regards,

GTBob  

Am thinking about buying a new WbB GP-9, but need to find out the following-----If I understand correctly, all new WbB diesel locos start in FORWARD.  That being the case, is the cab of the GP-9 at the leading end (front) of the loco OR the trailing end (back)  Or can the shell be flipped around so one can have the cab in the front or rear of the loco???  Hope I'm making sense here...

Would be grateful for any input.  Thanks...

GTBob

For What It's Worth---

Bought 2 Lionel #6-5906 Sound Activation Buttons for the 2 loops I run my Williams diesel locos on.  Straight forward install---button wires up between (+) terminal on transformer and (+) on track lock on.  Bell works great on either loop.  No problems w/ this hook whatsoever.

My transformer is a 1952 Lionel ZW w/ diodes replacing the rectifiers (which I believe only effects the horn and not the bell sound).

Thought I'd share this info in case someone without a bell button on their transformer is thinking of giving the bell sound install a go.

Regards,

GTBob

Recently bought an excellent condition Williams loco PF-45 Santa Fe cab #102 (used).  I'm guessing the 102 must be an earlied version of the current cab #115 presently offered by Williams.  

My question is:  Does anyone know if the 102 cab version came w/ a horn/bell??  Mine does not.  I'm thinking the previous owner removed it, but don't know for sure.  Obviously, I'm wondering if the "good deal" I thought I was getting was such a good deal at all ...

Also, would I be able to add the Williams horn/bell unit (#00245--??) to my 102 loco?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks..

GTB

I know a 17" loco (ex. Williams SD90, etc.) will not work on a Lionel o27 switch due to overhang of loco body hitting relay housing.  But, taking the switch out of the picture, will a SD90 navigate successfully on just o27 curved track???  I'm talking 2 pieces of curved o27 track making a 90 degree turn.  

Comments please..  Thanks..

GTBob