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Topics - Thomas1911

#1
HO / Thomas1911's Shay Project
February 15, 2013, 02:29:15 PM
I mentioned in my layout thread a while back that I was starting on a Shay project.  Well, here it is....

While perusing the web one day, I came across a site detailing the different types of geared steam locomotives.  On the page covering the Willamettes, I found the following picture of a design that was apparently on Willamette's drawing boards when they went out of business.  A two-truck, 6-axle locomotive.

http://www.mrollins.com/willam.html



Thinking what an interesting model this would make, I immediately started wondering what it would take to turn a Bachmann Shay into this never-built locomotive.  Some initial studying and measuring of the Bachmann model lead to the conclusion that it was feasible, but I decided that since this isn't really a prototypical locomotive, I would save some headache and not try to turn the Shay into a Willamette.  Building the proper cylinder bank and valve gear didn't seem very appealing.  

My original plan was to turn this into a "Pacific Coast" –style Shay with the all-weather cab, girder frame, and cast trucks.  After much thought, I decided I didn't want to tackle trying to scratch-build the cast truck side-frames.  This decision lead to the next decision that making the frame and cab modifications would be pointless without the cast truck frames.  I decided I would only worry about necessary changes to fit the 3-axle trucks, leaving the factory truss-rod frame, boiler, and cab.  Modifications needed would be the front and rear pilots and water tank / fuel bunker.  Maybe in the future I'll come up with a way to make the cast truck side-frames, and then make the other modifications.

The physical part of the project started with extra front and middle Shay trucks that I had in my workbench drawer.  I began disassembling them and taking measurements of all the components.  I then started drawing the components in AutoCAD to determine how certain components were going to fit together and what would need to be modified.  For simplicity sake and compactness, I decided to not model the truck equalizer bolster as seen in the Willamette design.  Instead, I would utilize two factory middle trucks and graft on an articulating 3rd axle and frame cut from the other trucks.  I worked out the pivot point and designed the needed parts for the articulating 3rd axle in CAD.  

With design work done, I began by modifying the extra trucks.  Only minor trimming needed to be done to the middle truck.  The front truck saw considerable cutting and splicing of the side-frames to form the single-axle unit.  Next, pivot parts were cut from styrene and a bushing from brass tubing, then the parts were glued (with CA) to the appropriate truck component.  Holes were drilled (and tapped) after the glue had dried.  Lineshafts were reassembled with NWSL gears and one of the original slip-joints cut down to the appropriate length to go between the 2nd and 3rd axles.  This makes up the front 3-axle truck.











I didn't want to spend money on another Shay until I was surer this truck was going to work.  So, with the first truck done and appearing to function as expected, I was confident enough to make a purchase.  During the planning and design process, I had been keeping an eye out on eBay for a suitable Shay.  After a few months of watching, I was lucky enough to score the particular model I was looking for at an acceptable price, an undecorated steel cab model.  

Before any serious or irreversible damage was done to the new Shay, I wanted to test the first trucks operation under its own power before proceeding any further.  This meant disassembling most of the locomotive and removal of the front pilot for the new truck to fit.  Testing went well.  Only issue that arose was that the shortened slip-joint would come apart while negotiating left-hand curves.  The truck would want to articulate instead of rotating in relation to the frame.  I solved this by adding a travel limiter to the 3rd axle frame.  I also added some weight to the 3rd axle frame to help it track a bit better.

As seen in the pictures the front pilot will need to be extended forward about 7/8" to clear the 3rd axle.  I may look into the possibility of moving the front bolster rearward to reduce the amount needed to extend the pilot.  





Currently, work is beginning on the rear truck.  Once it is complete, will move on to extending the front and rear pilots and figuring out what to do with the water tank & coal bunker.

More to follow.....
#2
General Discussion / Help w/ Low Voltage Bulbs and DCC
February 10, 2011, 11:39:38 PM
I am in need of some assistance with trying to wire some Details West ditch lights on one of my locomotives.  I will be wiring one bulb to F5 and F6 so they will operate like the prototype.  The bulbs that came it the kit are rated at 3.0V, 26mA.  The instructions stated to use a 270 ohm resistor if wired in series or 200 ohm if wired in parallel (I assume these values to be generic).  I measured the function output of my decoder (Soundtraxx TSU-AT1000) to be ~12.7V as powered by my NCE Powercab.  By using the formula E=IxR, and providing my math is correct, I concluded that the resistance needed was ~370 ohms, so I will have to use a minimum of a 390 ohm resistor.  And with the formula P=(IxI)xR, gives the wattage to be right at 0.25W.  The nearest value resistors I had on hand are 330 ohm 1/4W, and after testing, they result with the lights being a bit on the bright side.  One is also brighter than the other for some reason.

While shopping for some 390 ohm resistors, I came across a diagram on the Tony's Train Exchange website that have the bulbs in parallel with a pair 1N4001 diodes in series claiming to provide voltage regulation/over-current protection and each diode would drop the voltage by 0.7V.  I have a few of these diodes so I tried wiring one diode in parallel with each bulb in hopes of not having to order more resistors and wait for them to arrive.  Adding the diodes has now made the bulbs too dim.  Getting this result, I tried several resistors of decreasing resistance up to about 100 ohm, with only slight improvement in brightness.  My internet searches came up practically nothing on dealing with the 3V bulbs, seems the majority are only 1.5V.  Seems I'm in unexplored territory.  Though I would think the mechanics behind all of it would be the same. 

What I'm wondering:
- Should I forget about the diodes and just run the 390 ohm resistors?
- If not, what value resistors do I need or how can I determine the value accurately to work with the diodes?
- Should I jump up to 1/2W resistors?  (Probably so, the 1/4W do get warm to the touch.)
- Replace the 3.0V bulbs with 1.5V bulbs?
- Any different recommendations?

Link to the diagram on TTE website: (Section 2)
http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/install-lamps-decoders.htm

Thanks.
#3
HO / For the Record, Found Solution to My Decapod Problem
December 21, 2010, 12:57:24 AM
Several months ago I posted about a problem I was having with my decapod climbing grades, seeming as though it was underpowered.  Well, I found what was causing the problem.  It will climb my 4%+ curved grades pulling quite a few cars quite easily now.  Thought I'd share my findings.

Original post:
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,13693.0.html

The problem ended up being the Motor Control Intensity CV (CV 212) being set to 128 instead of the factory setting of 255.  Why it was set this way out of the box I have no idea.  Since I began using the Decoderpro software, it has not only made it easy to change CV's, but easy to compare with other models.  I was able to compare CV's with several of my other locos, finding what CV's were different, logically eliminate ones that were not related to the problem, and then change and test the incorrectly set CV's.  While the original settings made for more prototypical operation by having to advance the throttle to negotiate the grade, it was something I didn't care for when trying to operate more than one train from one throttle, operate ground throws and whatever else, making for a few hairy situations.
#4
HO / Thomas1911's Layout
July 25, 2010, 03:26:41 AM
Thought I'd share my layout with everyone.  Model trains is just one of my many hobbies, like most of you I'm sure, and this has been an on/off project over the last 4 years or so.  It's a 10 ft. x 11 ft. point-to-point plan around 2-1/2 walls of my spare bedroom.  It also has a loop that passes underneath should I want to sit back and watch trains run.  The layout will be primarily logging and coal operations with some passenger and other freight traffic mixed in.  The layout is built in four sections.  I built benchwork and laid track for sections 1 and 2 in '06 in my parents garage.  Messed with it here and there over the next few years making some minor changes to the track plan and upgrading to DCC with an NCE Powercab.  In '09 I moved into my own house and decided to dedicate one of the bedrooms to my train/hobby room.  Once I figured out how big the room was I began designing the remaining layout sections and making modifications to the existing sections before setting them up.  In April of this year I began constructing section 3 and 4 and was able to get them setup and track laid last month.  Curves range from 18"-26"R with the broader curves in visible areas.  Turnouts are Atlas, #6 on the mainline and a few #4 turnouts on sidings, all operated with ground throws.  Track is also Atlas, all code 83.  I have been doing a lot of testing and tweaking before going on with anything else.  The end loops are an 18"R and the current plan is for them to be hidden under the scenery, hence all the testing.  Once I'm satisfied with the trackwork it will be painted and ballasted, then on to forming the terrain, which will be constructed of extruded foam sheets.


Track Plan


Section 1 - Engine service facility


Section 2 - Powerplant, river, and part of a town


Section 3 - Will have a logging camp and coal mine.  Awaiting foam sheets to finish laying track.


Section 4 - Will have rest of the town, a sawmill, and possibly some other industry.
#5
HO / New member intro and 2-10-0 question
June 21, 2010, 12:50:34 AM
Hello all,

My name is Thomas.  I've been playing with trains since I was about 3 years old, I'm now 26.  I've built several small layouts over the years, but was never able to finish any of them for one reason or another.  Several years ago, I started designing a new layout that incorporated features my previous layouts lacked such as larger radius curves, #6 turnouts and an engine service facility.  I then built the two main sections of my design in my parents garage.  A couple years ago, I moved out of my parents into my own house and recently setup my existing sections in a spare bedroom and finished designing and built the remaining sections of the layout.  Anyways, I'll post details and photos of my layout at a later date.

For my question, I recently purchased a 2-10-0 Russian Decapod w/DCC & sound (Item # 84301).  It seems to be underpowered and I'm not sure if it might be a defect or something simple that I could fix myself.  Whether free running or pulling a load, it has difficultly climbing a grade.  My grades are on the steep side at about 4% and it doesn't help they are on the tightest curves on the layout (18"R, will be hidden later), but none of my other locos have problems negotiating these areas.  The small radius doesn't seem to be the problem as it make it through the same radius on level areas of the layout.  I'm fairly new to running steamers and their troubleshooting methods.  Is it possible that any binding from the long wheelbase combined with the grade could be the problem?  Can anyone offer some suggestions I could try to alleviate this issue?  For reference, I'm using a NCE Powercab for control.

Thanks.