Do they have one in the warehouse that I can buy it from them directly?

How different will the new book from the two older ones in the 90s?

Dear Bach man,

Do you know when will the company have another production run on 70083 (Lancaster & Chester) N scale?

thank you for much....now I am just waiting for your 84 scan ;-)

Quote from: rains train on September 13, 2007, 10:31:30 PM
got a DCC ready atlas SD-24 today for 80 buck at the train store, running it in, so far it looks great! The people that looked at my engine at the train store said the engine was almost fried!    It was because of dog hair!!!! ................my dog pretty much lives in my room, so whenever im not useing my new engine, thats running well on b-mann track so far, I'm going to put it back in the box so no dog hair gets into it 

I have similar problems with cat hair. What I do is every other weeks I will totally dissemble the entire loco engine to clean it.  Hair can gets inside the motor.

Another way is to have a pair of tweezers around.  Every time you finish running it you use your tweezers to pull all the hair out.  Also, pull all the wheels out from the truck, as the hair tends to tangle into the axles of the wheels.  If you do this often enough, you do not need to do a total engine overhaul once a fortnight, but maybe once a couple of months.

Quote from: nscaler711 on September 09, 2007, 07:51:50 PM
People you have to get one of these!
i got one today and it runs so beautifuly for a standard line i am not even joking!!, a bit noisey but a bit of lube in the motor will shut her up!!!

It maybe a UP ( UP never owned any but i dont care!! ) but it runs awesomely!!

Exactly *where* around the motor should I lube?  I have a BN.

I'm one of the few here who is close to having a whole set (or actually own a whole set) of Bachmann catalogs...but my LHS always use Walters.  I guess for a shop it makes more sense.

Bachmann's non train related products were pretty good..good enough that the US Army ordered them.

Plasticville since 1947
N since 1968
HO since 1970
G since 1990
On30 since 2001

You can check out the wiki entry that I made..

You have to wait until next year..heck some of the products in 2007 has yet to come out..

Strange...the F9 is the least problematic of all my engines.  It is very reliable.  You may also just go to Ebay and get yourself an F9 again.

Sounds like it is contact then.
Pull the wheels out of the trucks, and pull the gears out.  Clean them *that* way.  Pay attention not just the wheeling part of the wheels, but the axles.
Clean the now empty trucks inside.

Now put the gears back, and put the wheels back to the truck, but don't push it all the way in. Just barely enough so that the engine barely can sit on the rails.  See if the engine will response.  Now keep pushing a tiny bit of the wheels towards the trucks until the wheels fit perfectly on the rails.

This should solve the problems.

PS. Are the tracks connect each other perfectly?

Always try to see if you can repair it by identifying exactly which parts are broken.  In that case you can just call them up and asks for the parts.  That will take much faster than having the service department fix it for you.  I have been doing self repairs ever since I started, and I always get the parts less than 6 weeks.

I know what set it is.  I know Diesel pretty well.  You need to explain to me exactly what happened, and what have you done so far.  When you said you cleaned it, I need to know how, and where did you clear it?  What do you mean when it does not work?


Here is my way to diagnose it.

1.  Get a multimeter and check if the rails have electricity.  Make sure you clean the track first.  Start from the rerailer and go all the way around for the full circle.  Test for DC.  The explorer is a modern set so there is no way you can hook it up for AC.

2.  If there is no electricity, then first either it is the cab, or the adapter is the culprit.  Use the multimeter to test the adapter to see if there is any output.  If it does not, or insufficient, the adapter is to blame.   If adapter is fine, then test the cab.  Pull out your red wire slightly, and then test the red wire on its cab end.  Make sure the red wire is still plug into the cab.  If the output is not there, or insufficient, then it is the cab to blame.  If not, now test the red wire on the track end.  Pull out the red wire, and test it (the double female plug side).  If it does not have output, or inefficient, your red wire is faulty, if not...

3. Plug the red wire back into the rerailer.  Manipulate the double male tabs of the rerailer where you plug in the red wire.  In my experience most often than not this is the problem if the track has electrical problem.  Try plug the red wire from the opposite side of the rerailer input to see if this fix the problem.  Again keep manipulating the two tabs.  Keep your multimeter fixed to the track so you know if there is electricity. 

4. At this point you should be able to figure out whether there is something wrong from the adapter all the way to the track itself.

5.  Assume the track does receive electricity, then the problem is the loco.

6.  Put the loco back on the track, and then press it from side to side, in a diagonal fashion.  If the engine attempts to move, that means that it is a wheel gauge problem.  Use your fingers gently pull the wheels out just a little bit at a time, and put the train back on.  Keep doing it until all wheels are perfectly on the track.  It should run, if not...

7.  Turn the loco over, and press the contacts of the trucks towards the chassis.  There should be four contacts.   Put the loco back on the track, and gently press it against the track, see if it runs.  If it runs, then the problem is the loose contact.  You may want to use a tweezer or screw driver to manipulate the contact further to make it better.  If it still has problems...

8.  Take all the wheels off the trucks, then take the gears out of the trucks.  Examine and clean them if possible.  Put them back in.  If it runs then that means dirt is the problem, if not...

9.  Take the body off the loco.  This will reveal the split-chassis.  Examine the motor itself to see if the plastic wrap sits correctly so that the motor is not contacting the chassis itself, with the exception of its contacts.  If the plastic wrap is ok...

10. Get yourself a couple of wires.   Put one end to one rail, the other on the other rail, then have the wires contact the two opposite contacts of the motor directly.  If it does run..., see 11.  if it does not, see 12.

11.  Gently pull apart the split-chassis, but just by a millimeter, or less.  The reason why the engine does not run even though there is nothing wrong with the motor is that the split chassis was put together so closely that, somewhere they touch and create a short.  So just pull them slightly apart, that should solve the problem.  If it still does not run....

12.  Unscrew the screws that hold the chassis, and pull apart the chassis.
Take the motor out of the chassis.  Use wires to connect it directly to the track to see if it runs.  If it does not, the culprit is that you have a defective motor.  Call Bachmann for a replacement.  If not...

13.  Put the motor back in.  Examine the worms and the shafts.  Check whether they are connected correctly, and also see if there is dirt or too much grease inside.  If those are the problems, fix them accordingly by reassemble them correctly for the former, and dissemble it and totally clean it and degrease it before putting it back.  Gently greese it, before putting the entire loco together.

14. At this point all parts of the loco and the tracks have been checked.  If it still does not run, return the whole thing back to Bachmann.  I doubt you will reach this point if you have done the above carefully.

Good luck and keep us posted.  

Can you identify what they are, are they in original packaging, had they been played with before?  etc?

Even the DZ123 will revert back to DC?