Kman,

Thanks for your service.  If you're ever in Q-town (Quantico), stop by the AMTRACK Station.  It houses the home layout of the Prince William Co Model RR Club.  www.pwmrc.org  One more thing about storage - don't leave trains in an attic where temperatures can heat the metal parts which will in turn melt adjoining plastic parts.

Semper Fi
Robin USMC 1975-1995

BradKT,

Here's what i did to mount Athearn trucks on Tyco flat cars:  Find some plastic model kit trees – the plastic is very similar to what Athearn uses.  Cut a short section of round plastic rod large enough to snuggly fill the hole you drill in the Athearn frame where the truck mounts.  Use model airplane cement to weld the short rod in the new hole you drilled.  Don't use too much glue or the surrounding plastic will turn to mush and stay that way.  Next day file the area flat about 1/32 of an inch lower than the original height.  Drill and tap for a 2-56 screw (available at radio shack).  Trim a Kadee coupler box that has the flange in the inside and glue that flange centered on your new screw hole.  The kadee flange is a perfect match for the original Athearn flange only just a tad too long.  That is easily trimmed with a file.  If you keep everything square the car should track every bit as well as an unmodified car.

Regards,

Robin

Santa Fe Buff,

The problem of gluing large pieces of foam to anything is that air can't reach the glue - hence the long drying time.  I've had very good luck using the expanding spray foam as a foam adhesive - just be quick about getting the two surfaces together quickly - the weights should also help.

Robin

Sid,

Here is something to think about;  You mentioned a nearby studio room.  Would it be possible to run a spur or mainline through the wall and around a section of that room?  It's something a friend Fl did by running his double tracked main through a small bathroom at eye level (when sitting down).  I'm trying to figure out how to do something similar while dealing with doorway and stairs.

Robin

That would make a nice model but unless your layout has 40" plus radius curves it will spend all its time on a shelf.  I would try Caboose Hobbies in Denver - they maintain a large brass inventory.  Also Howard Zane might be a good source - he can be found by searching for the Great Scale Model Train Show, Timonium.

Good luck,

Robin

Great story - thanks and congratulations.  I'm also blessed with a very giving spouse.

Robin

ajp,

I'd lighten up on the spelling critique, your post had its share of errors.

Robin

Quote from: ajp3751 on August 11, 2008, 12:16:28 PM
Buff, not all of your points make sence, especially when they are full of spelling errors.

First, is this a DC or DCC layout, because they are a little different. Buff does have a point saying that newer locomotives follow current on DC layouts so double, triple, or quadruple heading with locos facing different directions isn't a problem. I have no problem triple heading and sometimes quadruple heading my proto 2000 GP-30s and GP-9s on a DC layout with little speed drop but NO strength loss.


Buff, it is hard to make a point if you don't spell things right. (sort, did you mean short? stream, steam or streamlined?) Long trains won't cause a short in the system unless your wiring is faulty. You might experience power loss due to exessive consumption, but not a short.(maybe you mean power shortage. Look up short to see what it really is.)

What are you trying to say by "...has problems moving without stalling..." If something moves without stalling, I'd say it funs fine. Then "dummies" where used when you want to see more locomotives and don't need the extra power. The amtrak dummies you refer to are not the only dummies. And I'm really courious with how you claim you get more power by adding a non powered unit. Plus amtrak doesn't exactly go with vintage cars.

It would be great if Bachmann would come out with one of these but failing that - has anyone kitbashed or scratch built one?

Robin

For a layout on a 4x8 sheet, curve transitions are just going to require real estate you don't have.  I assume you're using some flex track.  If so perhaps some cardboard curve templates in 15 and 18 inch radii will help you lay out your ideas prior to cutting and soldering.  Using the shortest possible rolling stock that is properly weighted with well adjusted trucks will help a lot.  Forty foot long cars should be your maximum length and twenty-six foot long would be better.  Modeling the Civil War (or War of N. Aggression) would keep your rolling stock a workable length.  Switching to narrow gauge HO (HOn3) would also allow some very tight curves and still look good. 

Something to keep in mind:  Even if you could get 50 foot long cars to negotiate 15 inch radius curves; they would look very unrealistic doing so.  The shorter cars have more visual appeal on tight curves.

Robin
Whose first layout was a spaghetti bowl!

I took apart several Hickens a few years back and had to pry off the ends to access the electrics.  The rounded body did not appear to have a removable bottom.  Has the design changed or was I just doing things the hard way?

Robin

who hopes he hasn't timed out again!!!!!

I'd like to add my 2 cents.  Since moving to the country last fall - dial up is my only option.  Web sites with lots of graphics and other gee whiz things that take forever to load become too hard.

Robin

I'd like to add some numbers to the weight suggestion.  If I recall correctly, the NMRA standards call for each car to weight 1 oz plus  1/2 oz for each inch of length.  Bear in mind you'll need to do this for everything in your train because a light car at the front will "shoestring" off the track on a curve.  Lots of folks build a test board with about 18 inches of track and a Kadee coupler height guage at each end.  Add ruler markings to the board and you're set.  Keeping all you couplers at exactly the same height will prevent lots of unwanted uncouples. Most of us use a small postal scale for weight checking.

Robin

Zorch,

I'd contact Tony's Train Exchange: http://www.tonystrains.com/ with your question.  Even if they don't do the work - they could tell you what decoder to use.

Robin

MC,

You could make up two 12 volt test lights with a source of 12 volt power and a little wire (mini aligator clips are handy also).  Remember - your DPDT switches aer just contacts clolsing a circuit.

Robin

Kingrapter,

Contact Tony's Train Exchange for informetion on the best decoder for your locomotive. http://www.tonystrains.com/

Robin