For standard handrails I use ordinary staples.
A box will last you a lifetime
I have to mention that I model in 0 scale.
But why not use smaller staples for H0.

Ton

As you can see in the movie i have a grey painted version.
It runs fine, no problems.
I programmed it as it starts and stops it give off the appropriate whistle sounds.
OK this as an intro.
Recently, i couldn't help myself, i bought a black version.
It runs but it also goes into the stay alive mode at the most random places.
When i clean the track it usually ends at that spot but appears at an other one.
I had to switch off the whistle sounds, i programmed, because after an hour listening to random whistles you get the urge to give the loco a free flying lesson.
What could be the problem that this version is more susceptible to faults than my grey one.
Not the colour..........

Ton

Btw, i had a look at the pickups and slightly adjusted them.
No joy, it still goes into the stay alive mode.

Quote from: Biglars on June 09, 2021, 07:21:43 PM
If anyone has questions that is one of my videos.

And Biglars does it? Does it run on 10 inch radii with 18 ft cars?

Ton

Is it worth the gamble?
The pcb is the same only other firmware content.

Ton

G'day mate from the Netherlands.
Have a look at this clip.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MQw8T1EiVI

Ton

Quote from: p51 on April 30, 2021, 01:28:49 PM
Ton, very good work! 
I recognize most of these prototypes from Richard Dunn's "Narrow Gauge to No Man's Land" book. You did a great job on the builds and paint/decals.

Yes you are correct.
A friend of mine has the books and lend them to me.
That is the job half done.

Ton

Quote from: Fred Klein on April 30, 2021, 10:11:31 AM
Great video, Ton. I really like the custom built cars. Did you use your Silhouette Cameo for any of it? Just curious. Thanks for a great video.

Yes all of it except the Kadee / Tichy train group trucks and couplers.
I used to mark the parts by hand.
Thank god for the cutting plotter.
Saves me a lot of work.
The parts are not cut loose by the machine so releasing them from the sheet is still a job I have to do by hand.

Ton

Here is a small clip I made from the 2-6-2 trench locomotive and a rake of complementing cars I custom made.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S6jW-szpHc

Ton

Here is one of my 2-6-6-2's leasurly running on my layout.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaWUjrEf7Qc
the 2-6-6-2 Milan.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ehh3D5RMcGM
note the speed.

Ton

You have to learn much about the difference between model railroading and playing with trains.
Those locomotives don't go to slow , They go to fast.
Their max. speed in real life is not more than 38 Mph.

Ton

Which 4-4-0 do you mean , there are the classic and the modern version.
in both you will have to buy a decoder with sound and speaker, your choice of manufacturer.
I presume you are talking about a 2-4-4-2?
Sound pcb is sold separately if you can get it from somewhere.
The pcb is plugged in onto the excisting decoder pcb.

Ton

I agree with Len.
Going higher than 12V is asking for trouble.
The only solution to your problem is to go DCC.

Ton

I stain my wood always with a vinegar steel-wool solution.
Your asking for a ET&WNC colour scheme but you bought SR&RL cars. ??

Ton

The pcb's are the same, with different sound software installed.
So logically speaking they should be interchangeable.
I bought my 2-4-4-2's and the sound modules in one go, i believe it was from The Favourite Spot on Ebay.
And their big brothers , 2-6-6-2's , have the old 21 pin configuration.

Ton

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCJHzJvaixQ