Hello, actually I first had a new Bachmann SD45 with sound, it would halt at that switch, and the NCE would go into reset. I since sent the loco back for other reasons. The DC loco was my only loco, life like pa1. It would stutter at med-high speed, but at slow it would stutter-halt, and also cause the overload lite to blink, which logically to me meant a short.
(I have the default wiring, which I believe means the frog was not powered)
At any rate - the next day both switches worked - go figure. Thanks anyway

I have just purchased some new EZ track, including standard remote switches. I have two that fail the same manner, but different route. The engine stalls when it gets to the frog area. Since the power lamps on the MRC pack blink at that time it seems its shorting out. The dumb thing is that one switch does this on the straight route, and the other on the diverge route. Is this a known thing with a fix or do I need to contact Bachmann since they are new?

Thanks - Tim

I just opened the box to this track set, and there is no track plan that I can find. The dvd obviously is fo HO gauge, and may even be KATO track. What gives? In trying to guess using a PC program, the given track doesn't even seem to meet up - am I missing something here?
Thanks. I am trying to just do something simple and this seemed like a good idea.

Hello,

Is it possible that these chassis' are the same, and one can remove the CB&Q shell off the 62811 and place it onto the PRR 65601 chassis after removing it's shell? I know I did this before with maybe an FA unit, then reselling the unwanted unit.
Wouldn't have this question if soundtrax was avail in most, if not all models.


Thanks,

Tim

Thanks - yep the pulse was off, never use that anyway anymore. I guess it may be possible the option was turned off. Will have to see if I can take it somewhere to double check. Thanks

I give up with 'search' - doesnt seem to work with me, I know this issue is probably on here somewhere.

I have a DCC/Sound 4-6-0 that works fine in DCC, but when I try to test it on DC (I sold my DCC system) it makes no sound, and the lights click on & off. What Up?

I hope it didnt get messed up.

The analog pack is an TECH II 2400

Thanks

Thanks for the info.

The S-2 that I bought , even though its DCC ready, it doesnt have the predrilled speaker hole, and I am not into that kind of stuff. I can get the sound loco for $109, switch the shells, and resell the PRR as analog, it would still be like new, as i am building the layout now, engine is TRO. I would end up paying the normal (online price) which I would have paid if there had been a CB&Q w/sound to start with, or maybe a bit less, depending on how it worked out..

Hi - silly question of the day, but at an extra $110, I 'd rather be sure.

I got a new S-2 DC (DCC READY) (63310) in CB&Q. I was wondering if I bought a Soundvalue model, say the PRR 63403 (S-2 w/DCC & SOUND) can I swap the Engine shells to make it the CB&Q that has the sound?

Thanks - Tim

Okay thanks - I had never seen that one before. I was assuming the simpler loco & dcc in a box thing. Thats a nice set.

Quote from: 8stargazer on September 12, 2013, 07:57:33 PM

The Dynamis set comes with a Baldwin 2-8-0

Hello - I am curious on this - are you sure its a Dynamis? I thought that the only Bachmann DCC system that comes with a loco is the DCC 'E-Z Command' unit.

The dynamis, I think is in the $200+ range, whereby the E-Z Command system can be had anywhere from $60 to $119 alone, and from $99 to $159 with a DCC loco (usually a GP40, but I have seen some with a 2-8-0, or an 0-6-0)

The 0-6-0 is very basic, has no tender pickup, and the tender is not to scale (too short). Otherwise the EZ Command system is a very nice entry level DCC unit.

I just bought mine for $99 at an LHS, didnt like the 0-6-0 that came with it, sold it for $42, which means I only paid $57 for the DCC system

Have fun

I have now just seen this for sale online, and all sources so far state that the minimum radius recommended is 19 INCH? Is that for real? That's mostly humongous for N gauge. I mean even 15 is usually the largest most small layouts can handle. I was just wondering if this is a typo?

Mr Bachmann or anyone have a verify?

Well - actually the more I thot about it yesterday the more I came to the decision. Since it was right on the 30 days, it went back to where I bought it from. I will go mess with something else. I mean this thing drives one crazy with the 'headlight turns off' issue, any time the engine burps on the track.

Thanks - Tim

Does anyone know how to get this shell off the RS3? I hate this decoder in it, and I wish to see what can be done. Its ridiculous that no matter what I change settings to, I still have to move the speed up to 13 before it even starts to move - thats not a one handed easy operation.

Thanks - Tim

OK - this thing HAS to have something wrong with it. No matter what I set CV2 or 3 to, it still will not move until the throttle is at 11 or 12 - that means one has to turn the thumbwheel several times to make the thing go - thats just plain dumb.

Hi Tony,

The window on the Cab says 28 at the max. The engine moves at what you would call a 'safe' top speed, but not a ridiculous one like some do. I did change CV2 to 0, it was at 10, but it didnt really make a difference.

I cant do a break in w/o taking everything out to the workshop. No room in here for the size kato loop i bought yet. Trouble with that is I would have to take all the NCE stuff out also, or just run it on a DC power pack out there.

Unfortunately, this is the only N engine I have right now, so its not like I can compare it, or even remember how different they ran, compared to the HO engines. I feel like they always started moving at the lower numbers on the throttle but that was over a year ago.

I took the track out to the shop and ran it on DC both directions for a while. Seemed to run normal, well, as normal as could be tested with this crappy Model Power DC pack I have.

I will try it again later this week.