Oh.  Thank you for that clarification;  I apparently misunderstood the manual on that point!

I guess I need to wire a regular DC pack into the power leads using a center-off switch to alternate between the DCC and the DC.  Shucks.  I thought this would be simpler.

Thanks, folks.

I think I will find a DC pack to piggyback onto the EZ Command per the instructions before running the Mogul much.

The EZ Command manual says this about running a DC loco on Button #10:
"NOTE: WHEN OPERATING A DC LOCOMOTIVE ON ADDRESS "10," BE SURE TO MONITOR IT CLOSELY. SOME
DC MOTORS ARE SUBJECT TO OVERHEATING AND DAMAGE WHEN OPERATING FOR LONG PERIODS OF
TIME ON DCC SYSTEMS."

I have tried for the first time to run my C&S 2-6-0 #22 (from a very early On30 set) using 10, and it will run, fairly smoothly, BUT the motor (I guess_) makes a high-pitched buzz/hum sound that sounds almost like a whistle.

Is this sound telling me that I should not run this DC loco using the EZ Command?

Thanks for any info!

Success!

Thanks for that tip, Yardmaster!

I have not had the motor problem with mine, but I have had the problem with windows falling out and the tender trucks coming apart.

I will try that and report back; thanks!

I have the Bachmann EZ command set, and I am having trouble programming two locos with new addresses.  One is the Tweetsie Ten-wheeler, and the other is the BLI C-16.

These are the instructions from the .pdf ont he website:
To program your locomotive to another address, first activate the locomotive by running it a short distance. Next, press button 3
(figure 8; the locomotive's default address) AND the "Stop" button (figure 9) at the same time, then release them together. The
power LED will flash quickly to indicate you're in programming mode.
Choose a new address for your locomotive and press the corresponding button. The locomotive will move slightly (figure 10) and the
power LED will flash slowly to indicate that you have successfully programmed your locomotive to its new address. Finally, press the
"Stop" button to exit programming mode.

Everything seems to work till I get to "Choose a new address . . ."  When I press another button, nothing happens, no slight movement and no change in flashing of the LED.  When I hit Stop again, the loco still has the address of 3 (neither has ever been changed from the default). 

Any help/suggestions will be much appreciated.

Well, I have ordered the 2-8-0 tender shell--I never did hear back from the parts folks.

I am now experimenting with the old one in getting the lettering off so that I can do so to the engine without screwing it up.  I have tried the isopropyl alcohol, and it goes after the black fairly well, but the lettering resists it valiantly.  It evaporates before the lettering is phased.

I really wish all aspects of these engines were as tough as the lettering!

Any more suggestions?

Quote from: bapguy on November 17, 2015, 09:53:29 PM
http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=66_68_86&sort=20a&page=8

look here.  Joe

Woow!  Don't know how I missed that! 

But is it the same?

Thanks for the replies, folks.

I am awaiting a return call from the Parts/Repair folks to see if they can scrounge a shell up.  I only need the shell, of course, especially as this tender has a DCC chip in it.

The website doesn't list a body available for the 2-8-0, either, so, even if they are the same, I am still not fixed up.

I appreciate the tips onthe paint removal:  I tried ELO, and it did nothing to the lettering, but it did take the black paint off around it.  I tried another stripper I had, and barely touched the side, and the letering started to lift off, but teh plastic around it began to melt.  My fault, of course, but, whatever paint Bachmann uses for lettering is TOUGH.

Mr. Bach Man:

I have just added a Lt. Mountain to my roster.  The previous owner started modifying the lettering by painting out some of the numbers, so I thought it would be a good candidate for a custom lettering job.  But the paint removal resulted in some crazing of the plastic shell and loss of rivets.

I browsed the Parts catalog, and the tender shell for the Lt. Mountain is not listed.  Will this part be reproduced?  If so, do you know when?  If not, is there a chance that the Deptartment might have some odds and ends lying around?  I prefer undec, but I will take anything at this point (can try a different stripping method).

Also, if anyone else out there in the forum might happen to have one lying around, I will gladly pay what you think is fair.

Thanks again!

Sounds doable with a minimum of fuss--important given my schedule.

Thank you, Joe!

No disrespect to your great work, but comparing pics suggests that the conversion was pretty easy.  No doubt your talent contributes to that appearance, but am I missing difficlties that you had to solve?

I have a questiona bout the earlier side-tank Porters.  I know that the later, larger ones have their boilers and side tanks molded in one piece.  Is that also true of the earlier ones?  I would like to kitbash an 0-4-0 with tender and no side tanks without having to fabricate the boiler.  Is the early Porter a viable candidate?

Over the weekend, I had time to inspect, and, indeed, there is a plug on the bottom that allowed me to lube the gears.  They were NOT dry, but an additional tiny touch of white gear grease shouldn't do any harm.  I did oil the motion and the axles.

Thanks for all the help, guys!