I agree with many of the guys here that the E-Z Command is a fantastic little system that is great for beginners who just need something that works - and works well.

Based off of what your current desires are in your system, I would personally suggest the Digitrax Zephyr. It's an all in one system that has ways to accomplish what you'd like. You can still use your power booster with it - I would really recommend it anyway, as power output is the only real complaint I have had with it.

The Zephyr system has connections that allow you to connect up to two standard DC controllers to, and basically use them as throttles for two different locomotive addresses. The button on the Zephyr that controls this is labeled 'Jump.' This includes the '00' address that allows the operation of DC locomotives, just as button 10 on the E-Z Command - or when you connect the secondary throttle. (I've done it - mainly because when you do it allows you to use button 10 as a standard DCC locomotive button instead of the analog control.)

I saw someone mention the Ferro Train Line, Reynaulds actually sells is now if anyone is interested: http://www.reynaulds.com/catalog/dept_1726.aspx That is just the starter sets, they have other stuff like passenger cars, track, including switches, and locos.

I already have to basically manually uncouple as it is, so that is not one of my concerns. I am not even running them on a layout. I am already using E-Z mates and Kadee couplers and like them, but I would like to have the better coupling of tightlocks and that bit of extra realism and prototypical look and function.

I have been looking at the new Sergent couplers and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with them. I would like to add tightlock style couplers to both my Heavyweights and Amfleets, but am confused as which type that would be on the list, and how well they would actually work. I would also like to use the draft box that comes with them for the most part, that way I could eliminate some pre-existing coupling issues. (Don't stay coupled very well)

No, they are 22".

I don't think that the swing is going to cause them to have a problem, but I know that they will definitely have quite a bit of slide side to side when they are together. This first one in the cars in a curve.
https://imageshack.com/i/ncjmapj
This is the cars going into a curve.
https://imageshack.com/i/ms9pgpj
I also found out one of the links to some of the diaphragms I found took you to the wrong place:
http://www.hitechdetails.com/Hi-Tech-P_Car_Diaphragms.html
I hope that this is what you meant! Thanks!

I have looked around on Google and found some options and a few that said they were for Bachmann but have no clue how or if they will actually work.

I found these that were amazing but have no clue if they would work: http://www.hitechdetails.com/Catalog/cfm/catalog-htd.cfm

I found these that say they are for Bachmann but don't know how they actually work but the turn radius looks promising:
http://www.americanlimitedmodels.com/product_p/9300.htm

I also found these which look good:
http://www.mainlinehobby.com/popwin.shtml?c0147_9300.gif?147~9300~AMERICAN%20LIMITED%20MODELS~4.95~4.95~HO~147-9300%20OPERATING%20DIAPHRAGMS%201%20PAIR%20FOR%20BACHMANN%20SPECTRUM%20HEAVYWEIGHTS%20-%20BLACK

I was wondering about how to add operating diaphragms for some of my Bachmann Heavyweights and full dome cars. I have looked online for some options but wasn't sure about any of them and figured I would ask because I am sure someone probably has some experience. I use 22" radius curves just in case that makes a difference.

If you use a standard #5, not a Y, you can use a single piece of 33-1/4", 12 degree, radius curve to do so. To make the switch line up to standard 9" strait tracks, you can use a 4.5" and a 2" section together on both outputs of the turnout (that includes using the 33-1/4" curve as well).

In order to properly use your large scale on DCC, you would need to install a DCC decoder. Depending on how good you are with electronics (and following instructions, and how much you want to spend), you can wire one in yourself. If you have a local hobby shop, they might be able to install it for you if you choose to do so. You will need a DCC system as well though, but you seem to get it that far.

I felt like I might be able to clarify a bit better, The only scales of trains that use AC Current are "O" Scale and "S" Scale trains. Any other scale almost always uses DC Current to power them. DCC is a special form of AC current. You can but are advised NOT to use a standard DC locomotive on DCC power. (You should also not try to use DCC on "O" or "S" scale, different ways of powering). DCC sends signals into the track to a specific locomotive that has the correct address. The decoder in the locomotive turns the AC waveform in the track into usable DC to power lights and the motor when the Decoder receives a signal to do so. The only exception to the AC/DC rule are HO Marklin trains, and even mose of those use DCC, so I hope that this helps.

You only need the one module. If you have the DVD You connect one wire that came with the reverse module to the bottom of the insulated track on the terminals that are closest to the outside loop, and connect the other end into the input side of the reverse module, then connect the other wire to the other side of the terminals on the bottom of the insulated track and then connect the other end of that wire to the output of the reverse module. Make sure that the conductive terminals on the bottom of both insulated tracks are disconnected and you should be good to go. If you didn't already know, you need to have an insulated track on both ends of your diagonal, and the reverse module on just one of them. If you are using an EZ command, find the DVD that came with it and watch the segment on the reverse module. It may give you a better understanding than I can give you.

Does anyone know if they will be out in time for Christmas? I am trying to do a little bit of planning but I don't know if I can even get them for Christmas. Thanks!

I really think that this locomotive should be made by Bachmann. They actually produce Southern 722 which is the direct sister of 630. 722 is actually in pieces on the GSMRR while 630 is actually in service. Either way, I have also thought about doing this exept also retrofitting the Southern style valve gear from the 2-10-2 onto it. A quick fact that you might not know is that the tender on 630 is actually not the original tender. It was built from scratch because the other tender was in really ruff shape and is now sitting on a siding between East Chattanooga and Grand Junction.

You are Correct, I need 22" and Greater Radius curves but I really don't mind just getting some short pieces to fill in the gaps.