Yep, this car has the lowered frame with the center mounted couplers. Lee

Since my first posting about Krylon products, I have made a change in my painting operations. No matter what color paint was laid down, I now only use the gloss acyrlic clear if decals are to be applied; if the paint is glossy then I skip this clear coat. Once the decals are down, then I use the water-based matte clear finish to seal in the decals. I am now comfortable to use these products without any problems but this only came after alot of experimenting.
Whatever your project and as previously stated, be sure to test on some scrap before spraying the final product.
Lee

I justed received one of the newest versions of the low side gondola. But unlike all of the older versions in my collection, neither the end or side boards will slide out. Is Bachmann now glueing these pieces in place?
Lee

Larry: I have had a continuing dialogue with Krylon; they do reply promptly. But as for explanations of their paints, it leaves something to be desired. So far, they offered to send a can of their new clear but it only comes in a gloss; that was back on January 21st and I still haven't seen anything. Krylon never brought up using/trying their Low Odor Clear Finish (latex) spray --- it was suggested to me by a fellow modeler. I finally have a can of it and will try it this weekend. Krylon's reply to using their latex matte clear? '... it will probably work for that. I'd still recommend doing some testing first, just to make sure it's working well...' As a customer, it sure would be nice to have the manufacturer do the testing rather than me. As far as the 2 identical pieces, painted with the new (enamel) black and dull coat with the old (lacquer) spray with 1 wrinkling and 1 not, 'this is usually going to cause problems...' I would like something more definite than that. Lee in Tucson

My problem started when I painted (with the new black paint), decaled and then coated (with the old matte finish) 2 identical flat pieces, same time and place; one wrinkled and one was okay. Stupid me blamed myself so I redid the wrinkled one with same results. Also had the same trouble with the new red paint on a caboose I was doing at the same time. That is when I finally wrote Krylon. Too bad they don't label these cans with the type of paint product other than the chemical contents. Other paints from them actually did say enamel/lacquer.  Lee

If you use Krylon paints and seal in the decals with their matte, beware of their change in paint formulas. The new paints, Indoor/Outdoor, are in the cans with the taper cap and the new spray nozzle; these are enamel paints. If you use Matte Finish to seal in the decals, this is a lacquer base. The results can be wrinkling to the point of ruin. Krylon now only makes the enamel clear in a gloss (useless to me) --- no flat is currently being made. The only possible matte is their water based matte finish but I haven't found it on the shelves, yet. So be careful and do a trial spray first, I didn't and I am sorry now. Lee in Tucson.

Based on the info provided, it appears that Bachmann's EZ Mate Mark II overshank medium couplers should be a direct replacement, #78022. I have not had a problem until I ran a used car that I purchased via Ebay; I just never looked at the couplers as the car wasn't modified, just slightly weathered. It turns out it had center shanks which only coupled with  half of the knuckle face. It worked on the Christmas layout just fine until I wasn't watching; it uncoupled and the loco came around and smashed into the rear of the uncoupled cars. Sadly, this occured several times until stupid me finally figured it out.
So a lesson was learned and I will just replace the damaged couplers as I haven't had a problem until this time. By the way, a friend's collection of Bachmann cars all have the overshank version except the most recent acquisition --- a brand new tank car. It has centershank couplers which mate just fine, it appears that the car is riding on different diameter wheels. Always something new to learn. Lee

I know that couplers have been discussed previously but I have not seen a number listed for Bachmann EZ Mate over shank couplers. All of my Bachmann rolling stock have the overshank model ---- some with the coil knuckle spring and others with the flat spring. And by the way, I use Kadee No. 5 for my scratch built cars since they have their coupler boxes. But I need to replace several of the Bachmann couplers due some accidents over the holidays.
So what is the number of the Bachmann over shank couplers and are these called medium or long shank length (I doubt that they are short)? Lee

Now I realize that a smoke unit is not favored by many, but I like smoke coming out of my engines; perhaps just trying to relive that childhood AF train set. I have been trying to improve the output of my USA Trains mighty moe 2 axle switcher. I was using a locally available 'Mega Steam' scented liquid smoke. The smoke output wasn't impressive and the 'lumber mill' smell was thin to me. I found a bottle of Bachmann Smoke Liquid laying around so I cleaned out the smoke unit and put in 20 drops of the B-man liquid and let it run. What a difference! Real smoke production! And since it was un-scented, I put in a drop of spruce pure essential oil. And now a spruce smell too boot! Probably it is not the smartest thing to put that oil in with the smoke liquid but it was only 5% and now I know which smoke liquid to use from now on. I would have never thought that there would be such a huge difference in smoke production from similiar viscosity liquids. Lee

Since no one has any ideas except for a bath vent, I got rid of this 'center-of-the-car' thing; it was exactly in the center of the caboose (right in the center aisle). I did put in a smoke stack over the stove. As far as a bathroom vent, I have seen a tiny window mounted high in the wall. I am not sure if the window operated or it was just for light in the w.c. But this vent thing is too big to me and in the wrong place, so I will drop it in the parts box for now. Lee

I just got my first no-cupola / flat roof caboose. Okay, so Bachmann forgot/eliminated the smoke stack; the full interior has the stove just like all their cupola cabooses. But what is that bell-shaped / lamp shade thing in the middle of the roof supposed to represent? I'll add a chimney pipe but that 'vent' thing is nothing I ever seen and I am thinking of getting rid of it. Any ideas? Lee in Tucson.

I hope this is only an issue of  down under terminology but I think there is need for clarification of primer types. In the US, etching primers are primarily used as the first coat over bare metal in automotive painting. It prevents corrosion from appearing through the subsequent paint layers. I would not use it on a plastic surface but rather a straight primer covered with your final top paint layer. Primer-surfacers are to be used only when there is a need to cover some flaws/irregular issues in the surface. Otherwise, the heavy body to this primer will cover alot of the small details. Hope this helps, Lee in Tucson.

I too have seen my 'older' WS dry transfers disintegrate even though they are stored in sealed plastic pages. But, no matter the condition of the transfer, I burnish them quite hard into the paint; that means at least 3 times across the transfer in all directions. And I never touch them until after the dull coat. You might try using a coat of clear gloss over the paint regardless of the paint gloss before doing the transfer work. Whatever the paint, I now use Krylon gloss and matte finishes exclusively. Hope this helps, Lee in Tucson

You are correct, these threads can sort of go off track in discussing small niches of the hobby. So back to your basics, you have two choices considering your lack of experience (to date): 1)go with a dummy or 2)another powered unit.
1) One or two dummy unit engines won't present any problem except limit the total number of cars you can pull (one or two less). But finding dummy units can be troublesome especially if you have to have it now. If ebay is your hobby shop, then put your favoritess on watch and be patient; summer can be a great time for deals but the selection is low. I waited over 18 months to find a GN Life Like E7; I ended up paying a new engine price for a used engine but now I have it and it is a great acquistion for me. Otherwise keep looking at the swap meets as I doubt your hobby shop would have much to choose from.
2) Get another powered unit the same as you have now. There has been discussion of matching engine speeds between different manufacturers of the same engines. Ideally, each engine in a multi-engine lash-up should run the same speed at the same voltage. But most don't but come close. So to avoid any problems, just run the same engines; put the 'fastest' engine on the lead to pull the train. Personally, I have not had any problems with mixing engines but then I don't have any traction tired (rubber bands on the driving axles) engines. I think that the traction tires offer the most potential troubles for speed matching as opposed to steel wheels.
Finally, this will really introduce you to the hobby: Strip, paint and decal the engines you buy to match your rail road.  That way you get a variety of engines not available to the general public but with the correct engine model in the correct colors.
Lee in Tucson

I find the issue of dummy locomotives interesting, probably since they seem to be so rare. Even rarer is finding one in your favorite rail line.
I have 2 Model Power FA-2s in GN paint (awful colors) which were gutted of their motors. Stripping these old engines of their power plants is easy due to their design which lacks an integral gear set. I permanently coupled them back to back.
I also have Con Cor PA-1 and PB-1 dummys in GN colors which are very nicely painted; I believe these were available in PRR too. Bachmann had their F9A & F9B also available as dummies in the 70s. These are oversize (somebody couldn't figure out their scale ruler?) but can sit by themselves in the yard with no one being the wiser. Mine came in GN big sky blue but it was a terrible paint job so I stripped them and painted them for the CB&Q. Life Like made a set of GP-38-2s with one powered engine, a dummy and a caboose; limited railroads and too new for the PRR.
I did see a set of Arnold FP7/9s at the local club layout in PRR paint. They were very nice runners which is somewhat strange for such old engines. I asked the guy were they came from and he said somebody just walked in the door one day and donated them.
Lee in Tucson