You guys convinced me to leave the engine alone. I do not even think I have the skills to work on the small gears like that. Thanks again to all who contributed.

Here are few pictures of the engine I have:









To get to the gears, I guess I have to remove the two screws visible in the last photo. Is that correct?

After looking at the posted schematic it looks like my MDT does not have the pancake motor. I have an open frame motor with worm gear in the front of the engine. Frame is solid (not split). I will post pictures today in the evening when I get back from work.

Thanks again for all the replies. I will try to take the gears apart and see if I can locate the problem based on your suggestions. The MDT I have looks to be the very first iteration so it is probably very old. I have decided that if I can't fix it, I will just junk the switcher. Definitely not buying a replacement one.

Quote from: Doneldon on June 12, 2013, 03:03:40 AM
Remember that rechargable batteries don't put out 1.5 volts like regular batteries do. They supply about 1.2 volts.
Depending on the nature of your lights (incandescent or LED, for example) you may be able to use that difference to your
advantage.
                     -- D

I know. Actually with one LED drawing 20mA, I may go with two alkaline AAs as they will power 10 LEDs for hours.

Quote from: jbrock27 on June 11, 2013, 04:11:50 PM
Yes, I understood from your original how it runs fine in reverse, but not in forward.  What I am asking (or should have been clear in asking) is, have you primarily run this loco in forward for most of it's life?

I am not an original owner of this engine but since I got it, I have run it in both directions. I would say about 60/40% (forward/reverse).

Quote from: jbrock27 on June 11, 2013, 02:29:24 PM
Out of curiosity drabina, do you think the problem comes from running it in forward a lot more than running it in reverse?  Which is why it runs ok in reverse but not forward at this point in time.

The problem occurs only in the forward motion of the gears. Reverse works fine. Basically, when I spin the motor manually, once every gear revolution, something catches and gears stop. Applying a bit stronger force gets the gears moving again so when the engine is running, the problem is not really visible. Only when the engine is parked and gears are close to the stuck point, I can't get the loco to start. Also when the engine is moving slowly it sometimes stalls because of that.

I am not attached to the engine at all. I just need to decide if I should fix it or toss it. Running this switcher in its current condition is very frustrating.

I have removed the body, cleaned wheels, inspected the gears but I can't find anything wrong with the loco. Most likely because I have no experience with model train engine troubleshooting.

I have had the MDT Plymouth switcher for a while. Going forward, the gears will lock up once every revolution. Reverse works fine. From time to time, this prevents the engine from starting. Once it is running, it works fine though it will sometimes stall at low speed. I was never able to find the problem as none of the gears have broken teeth or any problems that are obviously visible. According to Bachmann's website, I can send it out for repair or replacement with the check for $15. Add $5 for shipping and I am out $20 for a switcher that usually sells for $25 (or less on Ebay). Is it worth saving this little switcher by sending it out for repair? Obviously it is not my only engine so it is rarely being used anyway.

Thanks again for all the replies.

My layout is going to be very small so I am looking at about 5 street lights and maybe additional 5-7 LEDs for the buildings. I have plenty resistors in my parts bin so I can go parallel with all LEDs.

As for the power source, I still haven't decided if I want to drop the voltage down and convert to DC (hiding the electronic components in one of the buildings) or get cheap AA battery holder and powering the LEDs from rechargeable AAs.

It is all going to be connected in parallel. Connecting LEDs in series is usually not recommended.

Thanks for all the replies. I saw the quoted post but it mostly covers different part # than what I am interested in.

Even if it is half of the 1000mA on the output, I should be good as I want to power about 15x20mA LEDs from the 16V AC output.

Does anybody know what's the amperes rating in the 46605A power pack for the accessory 16V AC output?

Thanks.