Beautiful as expected, runs really nice. But two main issues out of the box:
1- the default sound settings are too high for the installation, kept tripping the chip safeties, main volume backed off and the steam chuff still had to be backed off quite a bit, 180 down to 85. (The 'Econami' web site is extremely helpful by having a downloadable trouble shooting (tech reference) doc.) ((Plus a sound CV selection doc too, which helps in selecting the B&O whistle over the default N&W one.))
2- And big one here, had to re-gauge all the engine and tender wheels out from being too narrow for Atlas code 80 set track turnouts, was an absolute 'no-go' on the code 55 turnouts.
After all that 'fun' the engine is settling in to being a really nice addition to my engine roster.
Now if I can just get a replacement drawbar for my fist EM1.

Getting my new EM1 out of its container for a run at my club last night I was disappointed to find that I have a broken drawbar (including the wire contacts). Any idea as to how soon something like this will be available from Bachmann parts?

Thanks on the suggestion for the wires Seadown, but these wires are a bit too far gone (signs of melting on the paint used to insulate) so I'll be running a newer set.

Thanks for the very informative link. I have to run all new wires between the engine and tender as the paint used to insulate had come off in places and fried a decoder.

Needing information on the steps required (i.e. what screws to remove and so forth) for opening the mechanism for servicing and rewiring of a class J northern.

Yes; as it, the none decodered loco, is see the AC component of the DCC signal in the track.
It is not advisable to leave the loco on the track for very long as damage will eventually occur.

On a side note; Did you use Atlas 19" radius track sections going into and out of your 11" curves?

I have three of these. And in comparing them to some old drawings it looks to be loosely base on an 'Industrial Brown Hoist Co.' 150 - 200 ton wrecking crane. The base with trucks is almost spot on but the cab could be a later diesel model. The frame on the floor of the 'tender car' is a concession to n-scales tight curves as the prototype was normally locked down to its chassis and not allowed to swing side to side during transport. 

From your description it is an 'Auto-reverser' for the reverse loop and should be able to work with DC but it is more than likely meant for DCC operation. If you are not planning to use DCC you can change the circuit out with a double pole / double throw toggle to control train direction going into and coming out of the reversing section.
http://www.outsidetrains.com/info/reverse.html
Explanation with illustrations.

Quote from: outkasts on March 05, 2011, 10:20:01 PM
thank you for your time and help i would like to use micro train couplers could u please help by finding me the part number i would need for the engine and how do u convert a car to body mount couplers

The part # listed is Spectrum Series 8-40C: MTL Pilot:1164 (001 33 040) for this engine.
For a freight car it varies from:
universal body mount coupler.  (1023), this one is a good standard type
draft gear & coupler for flat cars, gondolas, 57' TOFCs.
(1026)
2 pr. (1015) short shank (.312") & 1 pr. (1016) med. Shank (.375") body mount couplers.  (1015/1016), these will work if the car fame is not too low, the 1016 gives you the widest swing for sharp curves.

I've built a whole club layout using just the Peco rail joiners. 2/5ths permanent 2/5ths N-Trak and 1/5th T-Trak
That is Peco 'eletro-frog' turnouts and atlas flex track throughout. (with a little bit of KATO in the T-Trak)
1: All joints are soldered, except where our N-Trak modules are jumpered.
2: Both frog rails are insulated, no exceptions. In crossing from one track over to another that will get you four rail insulators
3: To avoid any problems with railhead width miss-match between the three track systems, I filed a small slope to the inside of the railheads of the Peco, Atlas, and KATO tracks (I do this even when joining Atlas to Atlas as it promotes good running).

Caveat: Now with our most recent batch of Peco rail joiners, they have been found to be looser than they used to be on Atlas track but a quick squeeze of the needle-nose and they are ready to be soldered.
Caveat II: All Peco turnouts are power routing that is why the frog rails are insulated and power is fed on both sides of the turnout for all mainline installations, if this is not done you will shortout the railroad. And their points will get dirty and stop conducting but a quick swipe of a piece of paper between the points and stock rail helps keep this in check.

KATO turnouts are just as sloppy as their Atlas conterparts just more 'Bullet Proof' with their built in power routing switch but most can still benefit greatly from some tuning of the points.

It is a wheel gauge issue see my response in your 'turnout' post.

Okay... Cutting the frog rails on Atlas turnouts says that the locomotives are very much out of gauge to the track and need to have the gauge of their wheels widened. I recommend you get a Micro-Trains coupler height tool (#988 00 031) for this as it has a built-in wheel gauge and track gauge.
Atlas code 80 turnouts are sloppy enough that anything should get through without a problem.

At what point in its travel through the turnout is this wheel lift happening?
At the switch points? At the frog? And which axle does it seem to be lifting at which point in the turnout?

So it seems to be just the spectrum locos doing this and is it happening at random turnout locations on the layout, or are there particular turnouts that they like to stop at, just not consistently.