Could use one red LED and one yellow for added effect. Certainly way cheaper than manufactured 'hobo's campfire' effect circuit boards. Haven't seen 'Tea candles' for sale over here--perhaps another UK member can 'enlighten' me (sorry).

Eric UK.

NM

Can't understand your reply. Remember that this is for use with stopping trains not switching 'on the fly'. The turnout acts as a switch using the changing polarity of its frog rails.
With switch set to top and turnout A set to 'straight',the loop is set for CCW running.Setting switch to bottom and turnout to 'curve' sets the loop to CW running. Connecting the switch to the turnout keeps them 'in phase'.
I repeat---run train onto loop and stop,reverse switch and turnout, reverse controller and train will continue its direction and run back thru Wye.
Changing wires on one end of switch means that loop is connected at constant polarity and destroys method of operation.

Eric UK.

If Justen is prepared to stop the train on the loop, the following will work.  You can use a DPDT SLIDE switch, Drill a hole in the 'knob' and connect to turnout 'A' with an 'omega' wire. Operating the switch will then set the turnout in appropriate direction.Note that loop turnout B or C must also be set to the Y.
Note also that direction of travel round the loop depends which leg of the Y is used to enter loop. If normal direction of trains on the loop is clockwise then turnout A is normally set to the side (curved)leg or set to straight leg if normal circulation is ccw. Run the train onto the loop and stop it. Change switch and turnouts. Set Controller for opposite direction and exit loop. After train is clear of turnout A restore turnouts and switch to 'normal'. Switch can be marked 'IN' and 'OUT' as appropriate.



Eric UK

Bach-Man

Following the request for disassembly of a diesel, I looked to see if diagram was available for loco in question. Not there but I noticed the following.
There are two items for the Spectrum HO USRA Lt.Mountain 4-8-2.
Clicking on the second actually gives the diagram for the H860X--  series of Diesels.
Perhaps you could pass this on for correction.

Eric UK

Ray

To expand the Bach Man's reply. You need the end control sections from a Reversing track set which can be connected by wire and standard track. The auto reversing track pieces sold for extending the set are merely standard track fitted with wiring and will not give reversing on their own. Any DC loco can be used on an auto reversing track setup.
There are other (small) electronic units available which will give auto reversing on a suitably wired standard track layout.

Eric UK

Terry

Very true. You can add risers together for other grades. You can make 'semi' transitions by combining risers or parts of but they are not true smooth transitions. The question still remains---they make starters so why no finishers.
BTW on my layout is a grade down to the harbour which worked out at about 2.6% and no WS foam in sight.

Eric UK

Jason

Have realised that I have not used your 2 x #5 turnouts which can be used for the sidings at top. Will redraw and get back to you.
If you right click on the drawing, you can "save image as " or "save picture as" depending on the browser you use.

Eric UK

John

Don't know about an "addition" to a layout. For many folk,this would be a layout in itself and even too much for some.
At the other extreme is something like a layout on the Exhibition circuit here in the UK which won a "best in show" award earlier this year. It is a shelf type layout with staging at one end, and portrays a semi permanent camp with store ,bunkhouses,dining hall/cookhouse and loco facilities. At the rear a track appears (from staging)from cutting site coming down via a switchback to the camp where another line (to staging) runs to mill and "elsewhere". A Shay or Climax runs log trains between top and bottom staging interspersed with trains from bottom staging to camp bringing in supplies. Seems to be enough to hold the attention of people including the operators.

Eric UK

The Woodlands Scenics items are very useful for a certain number of set grades but if you want to rise 'x' inches in 'x' feet you are on your own. Also they make incline starters for the bottom transition but not an incline finisher for transition to level at the top, which to me is a job half done. Since a finisher 'curve' is what is left if you cut a starter from a block, I find this strange.

Eric UK

Jason

Have drawn a plan on a 4'3" x 8'3" board. A 4'6" x 8'3" board would be better. No S curves and has a crossover each way between loops. Unfortunarely the part numbers of some of the smaller pieces is in small print for some reason.  It is drawn on a 3" grid which may help in getting the sizes.

Some folk convert standard OO scale UK style 'goods wagons' made by Bachmann UK and Hornby which are available from dealers in the States and 'downunder'.

Eric UK

The BASIC description of a (non sound) Decoder usually includes the number of Functions that it controls.
Whether it is Dual Mode or no is usually found in the "more details" or "specification" sub-sections.

Eric UK

Jestor

Another example of Bachmann's interpretation of standard terms.

Eric UK

Jack

Motor I have has a shielded 5 pin socket. I'm guessing that it is a stepper motor. Would make an adapter plate to mount a standard 12v can motor and control with a cheap TCS decoder.

Eric UK

Ray

First--apologies for the contradiction. Was not aware that you are using code 75. Have just seen on another thread that you now have a MTD(sorry WTD). If you want a small steamer, Bachmann are reintroducing their HO 0-6-0ST with DCC fitted -- has extra gearing for slow running. Have one with a Backwoods conversion for On30 and with start voltage adjusted you need to look twice to check that it is moving at slowest speed.
About the scanner based traverser;no need for any 'expertise', just attach a deck to the scanner bar after removine the 'electrics'. Then remove drive motor and operate by manually turning the gear wheel.or remove all the drive components and push/pull the deck. No alterations or adaptations other than adding the deck and removing unwanted items.
For your use, a couple of DVD disc drawer units with disc drive removed (and eject mech. unless you want to use it as a Car 'thrower') would suit you fine.
If I didn't already have too many roundtoits, would be tempted to try both versions altho' I have no need for either.
One of the European manufacturers has just released a powered HO traverser which costs just under £200 in the UK. Would rather play with a scanner(even a new one) at that price.

Eric UK