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1  Discussion Boards / HO / 5 amp booster and Dynamis with Pro Box- -The Solution!!! on: March 30, 2016, 03:39:01 PM
Hello all,

Here's what I did...And it worked!

I had a spare mini-plug to 1/8-inch cable. I also had a mini-plug to bare wire; that came with my Dynamis system and the screw terminal connector block that came with the Probox.

I cut the 1/8-inch end off of the mini-plug to 1/8-inch cable. I stripped the outer jacket being careful not to nick the insulation on the inner wires or the un-shielded third conductor (bare strands).

Because all the connectors are tip/ring/sleeve I used my multi meter on the continuity setting and determined the conductor
configuration.

As it turns out the red inner wire (tip) is not used. The white wire and the bare copper are the conductors. (There is a diagram on the booster that confirmed this.)

Tip=Not Used
Ring=Positive (red)
Sleeve=Negative (black)

Then I metered between the sleeve receptacle on the Dynamis Command Station and the output pins on both the Command Station and the Pro Box.

Looking at both units the pin on the left side is the white conductor (ring) the pin on the right side is the bare copper (sleeve).

Next, I marked the mini-plug to bare wire conductor with a black permanent marker; sleeve=black, ring=red (no color needed).

Then I used the screw terminal connector block and attached the white (ring) wire to the left terminal and the bare conductor (sleeve) to the right terminal.

I plugged the 1/8-inch connector into the booster from the Pro Box/screw terminal connector block. The booster already had the red output connected to the right rail and the black output to the left rail. (Make sure that both outputs from the Pro Box and the booster connect to the same rail maintaining polarity.)

Then, as per the Pro Box instructions, I used two insulated rail joiners to isolate the programming track. Using color coded (red & black) terminal joiners I attached the mini plug to bare wires to the correct polarity on the programming section (pg. 3 Dymanis Pro Box User Guide).

I then powered up the Dynamis Command Station/Pro Box, then the booster and finally turned on the handset.

Then I ran a know addressed locomotive from the main track to the programming track with no problems.

Next I took another locomotive, placed it on the programming track and read the address correctly.

Now I have the Pro Box AND the 5-Amp booster working in conjunction along with a programming track.

This solution would be a simple "Fix" from Bachmann by supplying OEM produced cables that I cobbled together.

Hope this helps!
2  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: 5 amp booster and Dynamis with Pro Box- -The Solution!!! on: March 30, 2016, 02:54:41 PM
Hello all,

Here's what I did...And it worked!

I had a spare mini-plug to 1/8-inch cable. I also had a mini-plug to bare wire; that came with my Dynamis system and the screw terminal connector block that came with the Probox.

I cut the 1/8-inch end off of the mini-plug to 1/8-inch cable. I stripped the outer jacket being careful not to nick the insulation on the inner wires or the un-shielded third conductor (bare wires).

Because all the connectors are tip/ring/sleeve I used my multi meter on the continuity setting and determined the conductor
configuration.

As it turns out the red inner wire (tip) is not used. The white wire and the bare copper are the conductors. (There is a diagram on the booster that confirmed this.)

Tip=Not Used
Ring=Positive (red)
Sleeve=Negative (black)

Then I metered between the sleeve receptacle on the Dynamis Command Station and the output pins on both the Command Station and the Pro Box.

Looking at both units the pin on the left side is the white conductor (ring) the pin on the right side is the bare copper (sleeve).

Next, I marked the mini-plug to bare wire conductor with a black permanent marker; sleeve=black, ring=red (no color needed).

Then I used the screw terminal connector block and attached the white (ring) wire to the left terminal and the bare conductor (sleeve) to the right terminal.

I plugged the 1/8-inch connector into the booster from the Pro Box/screw terminal connector block. The booster already had the red output connected to the right rail and the black output to the left rail. (Make sure that both outputs from the Pro Box and the booster connect to the same rail maintaining polarity.)

Then, as per the Pro Box instructions, I used two insulated rail joiners to isolate the programming track. Using color coded (red & black) terminal joiners I attached the mini plug to bare wires to the correct polarity on the programming section (pg. 3 Dymanis Pro Box User Guide).

I then powered up the Dynamis Command Station/Pro Box, then the booster and finally turned on the handset.

Then I ran a know addressed locomotive from the main track to the programming track with no problems.

Next I took another locomotive, placed it on the programming track and read the address correctly.

Now I have the Pro Box AND the 5-Amp booster working in conjunction along with a programming track.

This solution would be a simple "Fix" from Bachmann by supplying OEM produced cables that I cobbled together.

Hope this helps!
3  Discussion Boards / HO / Damping GE 70-ton fuel tank noise on: February 01, 2016, 09:18:49 PM
Hello All,

I have a GE 70-ton HO scale locomotive; SP #5114.

When running it makes a HORRIBLE grinding noise. I've removed the fuel tank and shell and it runs silently.

I remounted the shell, not tightening the mounting screws too tight and the noise went away.

Then I remounted the fuel tank and the noise came back, albeit not as loud.

My question is: Is there a way to dampen the motor noise that seems to resonate through the fuel tank?

Thank you in advance for your time and effort.  
4  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Setting up JMRI Decoder Pro for "Bachmann" decoders on: May 29, 2015, 08:24:48 PM
Hello All,

Hello All,

More clarification:

I'm not using the Dynamis system or Decoder Dr. in conjunction with each other or with the JMRI Decoder Pro.

The Dynamis and Decodder DR. are the tools I'm currently using to program the Bachmann branded decoders currently in use. I'm upgrading to JMRI so I don't have to use these systems to program decoders no matter the manufacturer.

The JMRI will have the correct interface between my Mac (yes there is a Mac version) and the programming track using a USB to Serial adapter (see JMRI website).

My original question was, is a Bachmann branded, two function decoder; model #44913 a re-branded Lenz? I still haven't gotten a straight answer to my OP.

Thank you all for your responses, input and concerns.
5  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Setting up JMRI Decoder Pro for "Bachmann" decoders on: May 29, 2015, 06:30:51 PM
Hello All,

Sorry for the confusion, these are non-sound decoders #44913 type; some have NMRA 8-pin plugs and some I've hard wired in non Bachmann locos.

I'm running the Dynamis system without the ProBox. Currently for programming I'm using a MRC Decoder Dr. on a separate piece of programming track (soon to be the JMRI).

When I get the Decoder Pro set up I'll have it search for the manufacturer of the decoders.

Thank you all for your input and suggestions.

J.J.
6  Discussion Boards / HO / Setting up JMRI Decoder Pro for "Bachmann" decoders on: May 29, 2015, 05:01:41 PM
Hello All,

I'm setting up JMRI Decoder Pro to program my Bachmann decoders. In the list of manufacturers it doesn't list a Bachmann but it does list Lenz as a manufacturer.

Are Bachmann decoders Lenz?

Thank you for your responses.

J.J.
7  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Limits of a Bachmann EZ Command Control Center? on: February 25, 2015, 08:05:38 PM
Hello All,

Iím currently using the Dynamis system with the 5-amp power booster on my 4x8 HO pike. I picked up an "only used once" one for about half the MSRP on eBay!

I'm currently running consists of three GP40's, two GP30's with an additional GP30 as a helper up the 3% grade, a snowplow consist of an F7B and an RS11, along with a single GP40, GP38-2 and a 70-ton & 44-ton switchers.

At any give time I'll have 6 to 8 locos moving simultaneously with no problems.

My turnouts are D/C powered by a separate transformer. They are separated into two blocks that are driven by a CDU for each block. I've been told that this is overkill for the turnouts but some of the turnout motors are PECO's, wired in parallel, and need the extra amperage to activate.

I highly recommend the 5-amp power booster especially if you're powering turnouts.

Hope this helps.
8  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Convert Hook and Loop couplers to Knuckle couplers on: January 03, 2015, 06:28:23 PM
Hello All,

If these are indeed Talgo truck mounted couplers go to the Kadee coupler website and look at the #212 Talgo Adapter kit. It does not include the actual couplers. It does include the hardware and the tool to make the conversion.

While there get a coupler height gauge to determine which coupler best suits your needs: Centerset, Underset or Overset. They come in different shank lengths which you can measure from the original couplers.

The instructions are pretty straight forward and easy to convert without having to install gear boxes or do major surgery.

Hope this helps.
9  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: A new layout! on: December 24, 2014, 08:00:55 PM
Hello and congratulations on expanding your pike,

Looks GREAT!!! Keep the photos coming!!

From the, "Been there, done that" files...Go DCC now!

I'm on a 4x8 layout and before converting to DCC I had 16 power blocks with two-cab control. The cost of wire and analog controllers alone would have paid for a basic DCC system in the first place.

By switching to DCC there are now only 4 power blocks with the ability to control many more locomotives simultaneously.

Since you are in the early phases of your build, wiring at this time would be easiest and you can build-in for future expansion- -turnouts, signals, lights, etc.

Hope this helps.
10  Discussion Boards / HO / Dynamis menu sequenceing? on: December 24, 2014, 07:21:59 PM
Hello All,

When Iím addressing and programming my locomotives and consists in my Dynamis hand set how does it assign their position in the list?

Iíve entered address 3501, 3502 & 3503; in that order, but moving sequentially with the toggle, it is listed as 3502, 3501 and then 3503. 

Is there a way to re-order the list so when I toggle through 3501 is first, 3502 is second and 3503 is third?

Thank you for your input.
11  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Speed matching with E-Z Command decoders #44916 (CV-5 & CV-6)? on: December 24, 2014, 01:00:43 PM
Hello Hunt,

Thank you for the PM.

Jim
12  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Most powerful HO engine/What are the engines with dual motors called? on: December 18, 2014, 03:22:05 PM
Hello and welcome!

Sounds like youíve got a great pike and a great way to spend time with your son.

You didnít mention if youíre running DC or DCC.

Rather than having one huge locomotive you might consider stringing several smaller locomotives together. This is known as consisting or MU (Multiple Unit).

A single 8-axle DDa40X is rated at 6,600 hp, a GP-40 (4-axle) is rated at 3,000 hp and a GP-30 (4-axle) at 2,250 hp. So two GP-40ís would come close to the hp rating of a Dda40X and would be able to negotiate the 18Ē curves.

You can go to THE DIESEL SHOP website (http://www.thedieselshop.us/index.html) to look up the specs of different locomotives and power ratings.

To MU youíll need locomotives that run at the same speed. Generally locomotives of the same type and manufacturer run pretty closely together, but not always.

If youíre running DC youíll need to find out which of your locomotives run at similar speeds. You can do this by timing each locomotive around a loop. If you are running DCC you might be able to speed match these electronically.

Google Speed Matching.

I have 15Ē radius curves on my pike and with a consist of three GP-40ís Iíve had no problems.

Hope this helps.
13  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Speed matching with E-Z Command decoders #44916 (CV-5 & CV-6)? on: December 17, 2014, 06:12:45 PM
Hello Hunt,

I tried to PM you with my contact info but I got a message telling me- -User Hunt has blocked your personal message.

I would like to know your suggestions.

Thank you again.

14  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Speed matching with E-Z Command decoders #44916 (CV-5 & CV-6)? on: December 17, 2014, 05:45:12 PM
Hello,

All the Bachmann locos are pretty well matched.

I have a couple of locos from other manufacturers that would benefit from having CV-5 & CV-6 to speed match. For those I guess I will have to install other decoders.

Any recommendations on inexpensive two function decoders that support these CV functions?

Thank you again.
15  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: good dcc starter pack on: December 17, 2014, 04:33:13 PM
Hello and welcome!

I have a fairly complex 4x8 pike. I had been running traditional DC and found it too cumbersome.

My first foray into DCC was with the E-Z Command system. A great starter set but I soon needed greater programming capabilities than the E-Z Command system offered.

I upgraded to the Dynamis system (which is what I should have done in the first place) and have had no regrets. I also added the 5-Amp power booster so I can run multiple locomotives simultaneously.

The communication between the handset and the receiver is line of sight. Because of the small size of my pike I mounted the receiver above the layout and have had no signal problems.

The only drawback I have encountered is the ability to Read the decoder functions. For some this is a non-issue.

Rather than buying the Pro Box, which would add read function, I purchased a Broadway Limited, stand alone, decoder programmer. This handy little gem reads and programs both installed decoders and 8- or 9-pin equipped decoders with the ability to connect this device to a separate programming track, all for less than $75.00.

I kept the turnouts DC and powered from a separate transformer using a Capacitor Discharge Unit, even though the Dynamis system will support DCC controlled turnouts.

Because the handset it battery powered I also purchased two sets of rechargeable batteries so I always have a fresh set when the batteries are low.

Users of other DCC systems have had some pretty disparaging comments about the Dynamis system but for me it is a perfect fit for my situation.

Hope this helps.
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