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16  Discussion Boards / N / Re: 4-4-0 acting odd on: September 20, 2013, 03:03:38 PM
At $25 to replace them, I am going to spend a few minutes tinkering and then just send the bad ones back. I have 2 in CP and 2 in UP. I was quite impressed with the one that ran well. The UPs have the thick drive shaft and the CPs have the thin ones (like in the parts catalog now. Haven't tried the CPs yet.

Just seemed odd that it worked so well in reverse.

I need to develop a bit more patience, I just took the N stuff out again after a long hiatus, a move and extreme frustration with getting things to work. This time I got 2 of the more troublesome units up to speed.
17  Discussion Boards / N / 4-4-0 acting odd on: September 19, 2013, 02:51:20 PM
Took a bunch of locos, etc out of storage last few days. Got a 4-4-0 N scale that runs great. The other, well, it runs great off the track, it runs great in reverse, forward however, not so much. Thinking it might be the mass of the tender that helps keep the driving wheels on track in reverse. In forward, it slips, wheels spin doesn't sound healthy.

Thinking this may be my first Bullfrog Snot test. Any other thoughts on it. It runs really good in reverse, as good as the first one in forward which I had pulling 6 cars cars on the test track after clean and lube.
18  Discussion Boards / N / Re: Standard Turnouts on: December 20, 2009, 03:49:48 PM
If he is referrring to the EZ Track switches it's 11.25. I know because not 3 feet away I'm looking at it.

I'm not sure of the distance between the parallel tracks, but I always understood the divergent route to be the equivalent of a full section of 19" radius curve.  A full piece of 19" curve should be all that is necessary to get a properly spaced parallel siding.

19  Discussion Boards / N / Re: 4-4-0 Questions on: December 16, 2009, 02:33:27 AM
Thanks guys!

Well I don't know exactly what i did but one of them is running very nicely now. The other ate up it's drive shaft and I think I may just send it in for a refurb or replace.

The runner will not pull every car I have up a 25% grade, but considering that it wouldn't pull itself originally and I have it pulling 2 coaches, a combine, a flat, a gon, a box and the caboose, I'd say things are looking up.

Now if Bachmann only had more of the old time stuff and sold it as separates.

20  Discussion Boards / N / 4-4-0 Questions on: December 15, 2009, 02:03:29 AM
Where do you apply lube on the tender?

If one were to buy a replacement shell from parts how would one disassemble the tender to make the swap.?

I have the trucks off, the screw in the center doesn't seem to back out when I turn it and I don't want to force the rds plastic cross thingy the screw passes through.

Same on the plate covering the coupler, screws turn but don't seem to want to back out.

Don't want to gorilla the little bugger, so Help!

21  Discussion Boards / N / Re: BACHMANN Spectrum 2 8 0 Loco N scale Loco - 81772 on: December 12, 2009, 03:02:26 AM
This locomotive requires a long break in time.

How long? I just got two of 'em. They look real good, I'm hopefull they will do well. But as of the break in not so much.

22  Discussion Boards / N / Re: Bachmann loco's/ atlas track on: December 06, 2009, 05:05:40 AM
Offhand, the only thing I can think of is to get an NMRA standards gauge and check to see if all your wheels are in gauge.  It sounds like you have some that are gauged too narrow.


Absolutely! My 4-8-4, which is new, had both pilots were to narrow and 2 of the drivers. Kept picking the points on an EZ TRack switch. Now that it's adjusted it runs fine, running right now behind me.

23  Discussion Boards / N / Re: rail joiners for bachmann n gauge track on: December 06, 2009, 04:55:36 AM
If he's using EZ TRack, the switches can provide some blocking. I'm playing with it now to set up a basic layout while I'm working on a "real" layout.

I have 2 loops, one inside the other connected by switches arranged as crossovers. I think I have 3 or 4 blocks already, I going to add some more for sidings and holding tracks.

Good luck.

24  Discussion Boards / N / Light Mountain Bell on: October 15, 2009, 11:12:49 PM
The bell on my 4-8-2 Light seems to have gone missing. Parts says they are sold out. Will they be getting more in? Os ther a substitute?

Y'all really shoulda superglued it on. I will when i get another one.

25  Discussion Boards / N / Re: F7 new colors needed on: September 27, 2009, 11:17:27 PM
I would second the ATSF blue and yellow. I know the silver and red did freight duty but it only looks right in front of passenger cars.

26  Discussion Boards / N / Re: Power stalls on: September 13, 2009, 12:29:42 AM
The curved rerailers/terminals are to shallow. I've had no end of trouble with them. Discard them and buy a straight rerailer/terminal.

27  Discussion Boards / N / An attaboy and a question on: April 24, 2009, 08:45:58 PM
Well I finally sent my older not so good 4-8-4 in and got a new one back. Very impressive, much better. Runs quiet and strong.

On the basis of that I decided to try a Spectrum engine and bought a 4-8-2 Light Mountain.

It's performance puzzles me. I have a test loop of EZ Track set up, I'm using a MRC Locomotion 1500 to drive it which works fine with all other engines. . It seems to run slower than any of my other steamers and the light is yellow rather then white. I know about scale speed and all and I haven't tried to calculate speed yet but it does seem a bit on the slow side. 

I'm letting it run to break it in after applying some grease and oil but is this normal for this engine or do I need to send it in?

28  Discussion Boards / N / Re: N TURNOUTS on: March 14, 2008, 12:06:23 AM
You will need to remove the screws on the baseplate and carefully lift it off. If you look at it a bit you will figure out how it works.

1) On a percentage of mine the contacts (the X shaped thing) did not route power correctly beciase they were 90 degrees out of alignment. You have to adjust the round gear as to how it meshed with the contact bar and the throw bar. It takes some time but you'll figure it out.

2) The wire that throws the point is, ahem, flimsy to say the least. I carefully bent mine and adjusted it until it worked well on both sides.

3) 2) is also a function of 1) in that if the gears aren't set just right the whole thing doesn't work.

I've considered replacing the throw wire with something sturdier like a heavier brass wire from the LHS but I've got mine working for now so am letting sleeping dogs lie.

Also a judicious bit of filing on the outside of the points, the sides that contact the rails seems to help. finish up with a light filing of the inside to clear any burrs you've left behind.

I know PITA for a $20 item that ought to work out of the box. Such is quality these days.

29  Discussion Boards / N / Re: n track switches on: February 08, 2008, 01:45:42 PM
Yes but the straight portion of the turnout does not match either the 5" straigh or any combination of the short straights and 5" straight.

Hard to add a single ended siding that way. Nice going Bachmann, you could do it with HO but not with N. I would have loved to sit in that design committee meeting.


30  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: How to remove tender shell on Overland UP 4-8-4 on: January 18, 2008, 12:15:00 PM
Robert and Bacn-mann, that makes sense. I kind of thought it looked as if it were molded in one piece. There is a small tab sticking through a slot in the front. I pushed it in but was trying to pull the bottom off, no joy. Will try pulling the front tonite.

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