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31  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: How to remove tender shell on Overland UP 4-8-4 on: January 17, 2008, 12:09:47 PM
Don't see any!

Hey Bach-person, any thoguhts here?

32  Discussion Boards / HO / How to remove tender shell on Overland UP 4-8-4 on: January 16, 2008, 04:12:46 PM
Well I replaced the wheels on the tender with a set of brass wheels/axles I had sitting in the parts box and performance has certainly improved.

Now I'd like to open the tender so I can add a bit of weight, but how? It's gotta be easy it's already drilled on the bottom for a speaker so Im guessing it's something simle.

I removed one screw in the front that's hidden under the truck but all that did is let something loose that is now rolling around inside.

33  Discussion Boards / N / Re: EZ Track Switches on: January 14, 2008, 12:58:55 PM
Of the 4 switches I bought 2 at least had the insides reversed. There is a fairly simple mechanism inside that is supposed to throw the points and direct the current flow at the same time. In both cases the X shaped bar that directed current flow threw in the opposite direction from th points. In one case in shut down the entire track when set.

Flip it over, take out the 3 screws CAREFULLY remove the plate. There's a geared ar that has the nub that sticks out the top, a round gear that has a hole in it that fits over a nub on the bar that controls the points and that meshes with the cross that directs the current. You'll have to look at it and figure out how it's incorrect and adjust the round gear. The bar that has the spring wire that controls the points is very lame. I do not feel that it holds the points against the stock rails very tightly. Consequently the points get picked fairly easily and causes derailments regularly. I'm not sure how to fix this yet, though I've heard people suggest a heavier spring wire.

Don't bother calling Bachmann, they reccomend buying new ones if you've had them more than 90 days. Gee, thanks. Throw $20 in the trash and try again.


34  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: UP 4-8-4 some problems on: January 10, 2008, 12:46:40 PM
Gene, you are clearly a wealth of inofrmation and a valuable if biased toward steam resource.

I have very carefully gone over the track as has my son. I use an Optivisor and have a pretty decent feel for the EZ Track. My joiners are clearly on both sides of the joint on the rails. Yet there remains a small misalignment. I got that on my test loop, but my engines are different and seem to do fine. There isn't the glaring "step" you get when the joiner slips under the rail but a very modest step, almost feels sometimes like the ends of the rail tops taper a bit, though I'm sure it doesn't.

Removing the spring helps the front pilot? That seems sort of counter intuitive, what's the physics that makes that work.

The problem with the tender seems to be that the plastic trucks seem a bit wide for the plastic axles. I tried gently bending them in but I think they rebound out after a bit. I've gotten to the point with my own stuff that "trucks, wheels and weight" are obviously the source of and cure for most problems and adjusting or replacing the first, replacing the second and adding the third is a matter of course. The problem I think is just adding weight at this point would simply add more stress to the wheels/trucks and make the axles pop quicker.

That's what I meant by shedding wheels, BTW. The tender doesn't derail, the axles pop out of the truck frame. I'm still somewhat new at this but gauging the wheels ain't gonna help if the axle is to short or the frames to far apart. Hence my query regarding replacent trucks and/or axles. As in are the Bachmann axles a bit undersized since this seems to be a fairly common issue with these newer Bachmann cars. I was talking to one guy at Hobby Lobby who was buying an Overland set a few months back and his set seemsed to have popped all of it's axles in the sealed package, there's even a note on the package referencing the problem and assuring you that you can simply pop the axles back in.

East coast,
West coast,
Diesel or steam,
switcher or road engine.
Just have fun!

35  Discussion Boards / HO / UP 4-8-4 some problems on: January 08, 2008, 07:29:12 PM
Bought the Overland set for my son for Christmas. We've got a slowly growing setup in the family room, keeps him away from Daddy's layout!

I know the 4-8-4 is a train set engine but it's not to bad, needing some tweaks.

First the tender trucks tend to open up a bit to much occasionally shedding wheels wich is discoraging him. Some of the freight cars suffer froom the same problem. I also think the tender is to light but adding weight is not an option until I resolve the truck issue.

Would quality metal wheels resolve this possibly? I have some but can't dig them up right now but I'm gonna need 6 axles total. I saw some metal trucks on the Bowser site (Cal Scale?) would that be a better way to go?

Second the pilot truck seems a little squirrely. Is there an easy (or difficult) fix for this? I've had it jump rail a few times, we've both checked the connections the EZ track is correctly joined, thought the joins themselves aren't always that smooth.

36  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: 0-4-0 please! on: November 26, 2007, 06:49:40 PM

They have oodles of stuff. Mehano/IHC/AHM/Rivarossi had a lot of interchangable products. I've got one of the parts guides. He had brushes and springs for my AHM/Mehano/IHC SW-1.


sorry to bring up an old thread, but I recently got an AHM 0-4-0 (for free, otherwise I wouldn't have it) and now it needs a motor, or at least some new brushes and springs. Is there something out there I can use, or should I just give up before starting. It looks like it's geared to go pretty fast, but I haven't been able to run it.
37  Discussion Boards / HO / Opinions - Bachmann FT A&B with decoders, Proto 1K F3 A&B no decoder but "ready" on: September 21, 2007, 02:11:24 PM
Found these on sale at a very good price. But are they good - appearance, performance, etc?

38  Discussion Boards / HO / Reviews of engines/locos on: September 20, 2007, 12:35:14 PM
I was wondering if there were any websites that did "independent" reviews of at least engines. i actually found one for N scale stuff, and as a static modeler of aircraft, tanks, etc there are quite a few that will attest to the accuracy and ease of assembly of kits.

I'm curious about two models. Bachmann's FT A?B and the Proto 1000 F3 A/B. I have found both on sale at really good prices. Both have a DCC decoder instaledd in both A and B unit. Neither is in a roadname that I can really use as I am mixing real with freelance so markings are not an issue as i will be painting and remarking them.

The FT is dead on for my era ie WWII home front, though my road probably didn't really have one, I'm taking a liberty. The F3 is postwar but again if you're freelancing a bit...

If you could buy only one set? I'm leaning toward the FT on cost and correctness for period, but is to good a deal not a deal? $50 for an FTA/B powered and decoders in both. The Proto 1K is $62 for same thing F3A/B powered and with the plugs but not the decoders in both.

Note: I have not committed to DCC yet, but the new engines I'm buying will have the plugs at least, just in case I decide to go for it. I understand these will work with either DC or DCC. What is more important is sound, I am becoming fascinated by the idea of having quality sound coming from my engines steam or diesel.

Your thoughts?

39  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Bachmann Freight trucks on: September 11, 2007, 11:23:41 PM
Do any of the reccomended sets (trucks) have a pivot sufciently large enough to fit over the post on the B-mann cars? If reaming is all that I need I can just ream the B-mann truckes and use the existing Atherns, which was the original plan anyway. The shop havd a bag of 12 all brass wheelsets for $3, maybe I'll grab those when I go back.

40  Discussion Boards / HO / Bachmann Freight trucks on: September 11, 2007, 01:56:24 PM
I have a couple of older B-mann gons. Thesae have plastic wheels and axles. I'm putting McHenrys on them and repaintingthem and wanted to do something about the trucks so they are more free rolling. They exert much more resistance then other cars and don't roll down the hump as well.

I have Athearn trucks and wheelssets. Unfortuneately the trucks don't fit over the existing screw post, I guess I couls sand these down, and the Athearn axles in the wheelsets seem a bit longer than the B-manns, the fit tight and don't seem to give much advantage.ell except that they are metal and well tapered. The originals are bluntish and fuzzy.

Just file and sand the existing ones, do others work, any tricks folks?

41  Discussion Boards / N / F7B slower than F7A on: August 20, 2007, 02:53:59 PM
Finally have a basic double loop with an up and over setup. Going to make a portable yard next to plug in. I've bought over the years 5 F7A and 4 F7B I believe they are all Spectrum or Plus, though I only have 4 of the pacages right now.

While testing/breaking in the engines I noticed that the F7A is noticeably faster than the Bs. When running 1 A with 2 Bs I got to a spot in the track that needs work and the A separated from the 2 Bs and just walked away.

Are the Bs supposed to be geared the same or are geared to be real helpers meaning lower ratios - less speed more power.

Come to think of it are the B engines physically diffferent from then As other than the shells and lights? I hadn't compared them side by side and I'm at work now so can't check.

I would think that if you put an A-B-B-A combo on the track uncoupled they should all move off in formation without running each oher down or pulling away.

42  Discussion Boards / N / Re: American 4-4-0 on: August 20, 2007, 02:14:10 PM
I was running mine this weekend and had a similar proble. I found the pilot (cowcatcher) was bent down a bit and that was catching. Bend it up slightly.

It did better than some of the more expensive engines through break in.

43  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Suggestions for reading on: August 15, 2007, 12:12:23 PM
I've decided on an era for my HO layout - WWII. I figure coal loads to factories, military trains with flat cars of tanks, etc, troop trains, tank cars, and various other crs carrying freight for the war effort and homeland civilian usage. Mixes my military modeling interest with trains.

I quickly realized that half or more of the rolling stock I have is wrong (to new) and my engines may be questionable.

I'm looking for

1) A general reference on locos and rolling stock that would give general characteristics and dates of introduction. Meaning 40' boxcars are good, some 50' boxcara are good but PS-1s aren't ca 1947.

2) Some books on railroads during the war. I found "America's Fighting Railroads: A World War II Pictorial History (Paperback)" and a few others on Amazon. This one is mostly photos.

I'm thinking some kind of interchange area with coal drags going north to factories, tank cars from the west bound for east coast ports, tanks, etc from factories and/or military bases for the east coast ports, plus troop trains and miscelaneous freight. Maybe one main railroad, maybe two or three being routed through. I imagine the earliest EMD diesels (FT, F3) would have been present and I want to find the smallest reasonably realistic steam engines that would run on say 22" radius plus mainlines. And which company would have run what equipment.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

44  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: Logo removal on: August 14, 2007, 12:04:30 AM
Easy Lift Off (ELO) from Polly Scale. I used it to strip some Bachmann N scale F7/F9 shells so i can repaint them for Santa Fe freight blue and yellow. Dab it, soak it scrub a bit and flush. Get's down to the bare plastic.

It will ruin the clear pieces though so be aware of this. I'm trying to find out I I can order a handful of them as replacements.

45  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / 3 Questions for Mr Bachmann on: August 14, 2007, 12:00:01 AM
One, do you provide customer service? I emailed a week ago and no answer. I tried calling, the phone rang for some time before someone answered. She sounded busy and abrupt. Sent me off to an extension presumably in customer service which again rang for quite some time and was never answered. I have an N 4-4-0 that has been missing the rear truck from the tender since I bought it and put it up a few years back, must have not really noticed it at the time as I'd bought 2. The screw is there, but the head appears smaller than the other screw on the tender or the 2 on the second one.

2 On the EZ Track, Frankly I like it. I want to have something to play around with until a more permanent layout is possible. I have HO and N and am using both. Seems to be a major bias toward the HO Nickel Silver grey. Will there be more selections in the black steel alloy, which works fine for me so far. In particular the insulator sections, more curve options and more switch options. I like the black, I think it looks better unfinished and will weather nicely. Plus I'm cheap (to many interests not enough resources).

Last. I bought a train set for my son a while ago plus some extras. The set came with and/or I bought extra 40' open hoppers (I'm a sucker for an ore load). The cars are in red marked MStL. This was fine at the time, but he's not so intersted and I'd like to integrate them into my layout as Norfolk and Western cars. They are the short list for kadees, a repaint and a coal load. Would Bachmann sell sets of the decal markings? Are they decals or are they applied in a different way? How?

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