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1  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Locomotive Suggestions! on: April 17, 2008, 08:53:06 PM
Years ago I ran an AHM "Casey Jones" 4-6-0 which finally began to run pretty good after a few hundred miles on it. Its a late 19th/early 20th century loco that could be used in freight or passenger. Its just the right size for most home layouts. Rick Martin
2  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Nickel Plate info request on: April 17, 2008, 08:24:14 PM
I've also heard those quotes and I believe another one might have occured when several railroad tycoons were gathered together. One made light of the NKP's size since it didn't have as much trackage as the larger roads to which the owner replied something to the effect that "yes but my railroad is just as wide as yours" (4', 8.5") Rick Martin
3  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Power House?? on: April 17, 2008, 08:18:00 PM
You may find it takes a "Superman" to raise and lower your layout. I once visited a fellow who did what you want to do in his garage. He found a hand operated winch from a boat trailer and rigged  that to raise and lower the layout. once lowered he sat it on some heavy duty supports. You will need something like that because you will find the framework will have to be extra heavy duty in order to stand the strain of being lifted and lowered. If you go cheap on the bracing the benchwork will begin to warp and your layout will be pretty much useless. As for powering your layout you can go one of two ways. Analog DC will work and you can run multiple trains after a fashion. You will have to isolate your track into blocks with some 3 position switches to power each block. This will require using two seperate powerpacks/throttles (invest in as many layout planning/scenery/electrical wiring books as you can.) the answers are there for you. The other more expensive but simpler was is to go DCC. Hope that helps. Rick Martin
4  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Some other guy's steam locomotive product on: October 05, 2007, 07:16:40 PM
While I am a Pennsy fan I think another K4 is a waste of effort. An E6 atlantic (or any other prototype) would be nice. As for the TriPlex, years ago when I worked the Model RR dept. in a good sized LHS one of my custormers lusted for a Baldwin centipede diesel that some brass importer had announced. As far as I can remember only PRR, Seaboard, and NdeM had them. This customer modeled Seaboard Air Line and so I ordered it for him. For a 1970's vintage brass diesel it ran quite well (I test ran it just to "check it out"). He came in, paid for it and took it home. Did a fanstastic SAL paint and decal job on it and then put it on his layout. Turns out he had a beautifully decaled and painted mantlepiece display. Far as I know he stilll has it in a showcase on his desk down at the bank. For those few who buy the TriPlex (if its actually offered) all I can say is have a nice plexiglass display case ready for it---Rick Martin
5  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: 2-6-6-2 drive problems. on: August 28, 2007, 11:41:11 AM
Gene: thanks for the info. I thought something else had to come off before removing the boiler. Appreciate the words.  RickMartin
6  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: what road names do you model on: August 28, 2007, 11:34:57 AM
I've always been interested in the following roads and model them as much as budget allows:
1. Pennsy because my grandfather was a fireman for the PRR
2. NYC because they passed thru my hometown
3. Monon because I'm originally from Indiana
4. C&O/B&O/N&W because they have some really interesting steam power
5. And 1 NKP Berkshire 'cuz I like 2-8-4's
Rick(PRR Man) Martin
7  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: 2-6-6-2 drive problems. on: August 24, 2007, 09:31:02 PM
Been looking for the same answer myself. My 2-6-6-2 which has never been run on a layout, just a long test track has the same problem. The front engine runs but the rear one does not. I've looked at the parts diagram and I can see that removing the dome between the sandboxes exposes a screw. I assumed removing that screw would free up the boiler but it doesn't seem to do anything. I'm kinda old school about my models and prefer to do my own repairs. Have zero problem stripping a brass loco and repairing or painting it but I find that most of the new plastic/metal rtr stuff needs a degree in engineering just to get it out of the box. Has anyone found the secret to exposing the motor and gears on this thing. Sure would appreciate it. I'm a real cheapskate, and don't want to wreck an expensive model while trying to repair something that really shouldn't need repairing on a new engine........Rick Martin
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