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August 19, 2019, 06:12:35 AM
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1  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: 4-6-0 big hauler on: July 23, 2019, 09:06:45 PM
Check how far the front truck hangs down relative to the drivers. It may be that it is at the end of its up-and-down travel when it's even with the rails. If that's the case, all the weight in the world won't do much since it can't go down any lower. Ideally, it should be able to hang down 1/8" or so lower than the rails so it stays in firm contact on uneven track. The solution to that problem is to lengthen the post which holds the truck in place. Some folks use washers, others cut a short length of plastic tubing the same diameter as what's there already. The stock screw should be long enough to hold the extension firmly in place on the truck.

Note that the latest generation 4-6-0 (the one with the brass gears) has a different support mechanism for holding the front truck in place.

Later,

K
2  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Tractive pulling power on: July 20, 2019, 11:22:10 PM
Drawbar pull is usually measured for the reviews in Garden Railways magazine. They use a rough estimate of 1.25 ounces of drawbar pull per car, so a locomotive with a drawbar pull measured at 2 pounds would be (by their estimates) able to pull 26 cars on straight and level track.

A quick survey of some of the Bachmann locos based on GR reviews:

C-19 - 2 pounds = 26 cars
K-27 - 2.5 pounds = 32 cars
2-truck Shay - 2.5 pounds = 32 cars
2-6-6-2 - 2.5 pounds = 32 cars
Climax (early version) - 1.1 pounds = 13 cars
4-4-0 - 1.4 pounds = 17 cars
2-6-0 - 1.4 pounds = 17 cars
0-4-0 - 1 pound = 12 cars


Now, about translating that to the "real world?" We need to consider a few things, but first and foremost is the weight of the average cars being pulled and the grades being climbed.

Here's a link to the 1885 Baldwin catalog, which has photos and builder's data for many narrow gauge locos.
https://archive.org/details/illustratednarro00baldrich

Consider the Baldwin 8-18D, which is the Bachmann "centennial" mogul. (The fancy one in the pretty colors.) On the flat and level, the loco is rated at 895 tons. On a 3% grade, that drops to 70 tons.

The 10-26E is the C-19. On the flat and level, it's rated at 1630 tons. Get that same loco on a 3%, and it drops to 130 tons.

Note also that the introduction of just a half of a percent of grade reduces the tonnage by over half.

That's the numbers, so how does that translate into cars? That depends on the weight of the car. Early freight cars (c. 1870 - 1900s) were low capacity, so maybe 10 - 20 tons each fully loaded. Later cars could weigh upwards of 40 tons each.

Let's look at the C-19, then, and take an average car weight of 25 tons (the capacity of a D&RGW box car).

"By the book"

Flat - 1630 tons = 65 cars
0.5% - 655 tons = 26 cars
1.0% - 395 tons = 15 cars
1.5% - 275 tons = 11 cars
2.0% - 205 tons = 8 cars
2.5% - 160 tons = 6 cars
3.0% - 130 tons = 5 cars

Here's the mogul:

Flat - 895 tons = 35 cars
0.5% - 335 tons = 13 cars
1.0% - 215 tons = 8 cars
1.5% - 150 tons = 6 cars
2.0% - 110 tons = 4 cars
2.5% - 85 tons = 3 cars
3.0% - 70 tons = 2 cars

When you compare the numbers for the prototype compared to the models, the prototypes can outpull the models on the flat and level (based on GR's estimates), but with the introduction of even half of a percent grade, the models can outpull the prototypes. Consider also that the model locos are all "geared locos," so they are not nearly as affected by grades as the prototypes. A model loco that can pull 15 cars on the straight and level can handle half that up a 3%.

So, the question for the modeler is whether we tailor our trains to reflect how the prototype would respond to those grades, or whether we just want "typical" trains regardless of the terrain on our railroads. Two car trains may look ridiculous, but they may be prototypical.

Later,

K
3  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Plug in boards for newer Spectrum on: July 19, 2019, 06:56:47 PM
If not, just get a strip of SIP plugs and solder your own leads to the pins. (Google SIP Socket, and you'll come up with a bunch. Pitch 0.10".

They look something like this:



Later,

K
4  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Questions on Adding DCC and 3-Way Polarity Switches on: July 04, 2019, 12:46:29 AM
First, with DCC, there is always power to the track, and the system is designed specifically to allow independent control of multiple locomotives on the track at the same time. As such, there's no reason to have switches to control the polarity of the power going to the motor, or to turn the motor on and off independently. So don't worry about that. The biggest challenge with DCC is installing (and programming) the decoder.

Each locomotive has a unique address, and the lights, motor, and sound are controlled by various function keys and knobs. For example, the headlights are commonly tied to the Function 0 key. When you hit that, the lights will turn on or off. On steam locos, you may also hear the sound of the steam dynamo spin up when you turn the lights on. The handheld controller will only control the specific locomotive whose address is dialed up on the handheld controller.

With respect to the decoders themselves, the decoders that typically plug into the 8-pin sockets are low-current (usually 1 - 2 amp) decoders. I would not recommend these for most Bachmann locos. They'll be fine for the small 0-4-0s and such, but not the 4-6-0 or C-19. For most large scale locos, you'll want to use decoders with at least a 3-amp capacity. Manufacturers include Sountraxx (Tsunami2), TCS (WowSound), Zimo, ESU, Massoth, and QSI. Phoenix (the sound system folks) also just introduced a plug-and-play decoder designed specifically for Bachmann locos. It's pricey compared to the others, but you literally plug it in and you're off and running. (ESU, Zimo, and I think Massoth also offer plug-and-play forms for some of their decoders designed to fit in the 23-pin socket in Bachmann's locos.)

I'd definitely recommend getting a book on DCC. I wrote a 4-part series for Garden Railways a few years back which you can download. (I don't get any residuals from those sales.) This is geared towards large scale applications. For general information, though, I'd recommend getting a more general DCC book. These are going to be more tailored towards small scales, but the technical information is certainly applicable.

GR Articles: https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/product/digital-download/grpdf075

Book: https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/dcc-guide-don-fiehmann/1012226683?ean=9781627001045&st=PLA&sid=BNB_ADL+EBooks+Generic+Desktop+Medium&sourceId=PLAGoNA&dpid=tdtve346c&2sid=Google_c&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpPHoBRC3ARIsALfx-_KLeeA9nQzmmw1MZN9fd144BthWryUhVX2k9tohUMribRSNISr0GfEaAsDeEALw_wcB

Later,

K
5  Discussion Boards / On30 / Re: 18 foot Caboose and Cattle Car on: June 29, 2019, 10:52:12 PM
18 feet would be comically short for a cattle car...  Undecided

18 feet would hold 4 and a half cows. Wink

Later,

K
6  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Fitting a DCC Sound decoder in a Big Hauler 10 Wheeler on: June 29, 2019, 10:48:27 PM
First thing--the Soundtraxx Tsunami2 does not have a trigger input for the chuff. It's all done by the motor's Back EMF. It's VERY accurate, so no worries on that front. (I was skeptical, but they've made a believer out of me.) So, that's two wires you don't need to worry about between the loco and tender. You will need at least 6, though. Two for the headlight, two for the motor, and two for track power pick-ups from the loco back to the decoder in the tender. If you want to use the firebox flicker and smoke unit, and control them from the DCC decoder, then you'll need additional wires for them between loco and tender. Otherwise, you can run them off of the track power input. They're powered off of the main board in the boiler. Just take the track power input, run it through a bridge rectifier, and hook the output of the rectifier to the PC board in the boiler. The firebox will flicker so long as there's power to the track, and the smoke unit will be powered if the switch in the smokebox is set to the "on" position.

For the connectors between loco and tender, you can find multi-pin connectors at All-Electronics.com, or you can solder your own from SIP socket strips.

Later,

K
7  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: RC BATTERY CONTROL FOR 2-6-6-2T on: June 29, 2019, 10:17:46 PM
You'll need to connect the battery to the Convertr, then the output of the Convertr to the battery input on the Bachmann board. If you hook the battery directly to the battery input on the Bachmann board, then you can't put the Convertr into the circuit, as the battery input is tied directly to the power pins on the socket (J1, pins 1, 2, 11, and 12) That will in essence feed full DC battery power to the Phoenix plug-in decoder, and if the Phoenix is programmed to run on DC, the loco will take off like a shot at full battery power.

The advantage of wiring things like this is that you can then use the track/battery switch to select whether you're going to run the loco from battery powered DCC or track power (DCC or analog DC).

One caveat--if the Phoenix board is programmed to run on analog DC, then you must make sure your Airwire transmitter is turned on whenever you power up the loco for battery power. The Convertr will only pass valid DCC instructions to the decoder if it receives them from the transmitter. If it does not, it passes full DC to the decoder. If the decoder is programmed to run on DC, it will take off like a shot.

Later,

K
8  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Long caboose on: April 27, 2019, 06:06:56 PM
Lee Riley was responsible for a lot (all?) of the product development in the 1:20.3 and On30 lines. His passing took a lot of the wind out of the sails for those lines.

If you're looking for a long caboose, try Star Hobbies. I think I saw one there when I was there a few months ago.

Later,

K
9  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Heat in a little Big Hauler on: April 05, 2019, 08:40:41 PM
...You don't need those boards unless you have a locomotive that is set up for DCC and you are planning on upgrading a loco to it.
You don't even need the boards for that. I was told they are there primarily for EU noise suppression laws. Most electronics installers will tell you just to pull them, as they're not needed and sometimes (as is the case here) get in the way of proper operation.

Glad things got sorted out.

Later,

K
10  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Installing Kadee couplers on 2nd gen Climax on: December 21, 2018, 09:26:14 PM
Use Kadee's #916 coupler. (#1916 if you prefer the smaller coupler size.) This uses the existing Bachmann draft gear; you simply remove the Bachmann coupler head and replace it with the Kadee.



https://kadee.com/htmbord/page916-1916.htm

Later,

K
11  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: bachmann big hauler motor spec's on: August 18, 2018, 10:14:38 PM
Most folks use 14.8v Li-Ion batteries in their locos--especially those running narrow gauge steam. That's all I run in my locos, and in most cases I program my decoders to limit the top speed to keep things from running too fast. (My top speed is usually around 20 scale mph).

Later,

K
12  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: pulling Power on: June 16, 2018, 12:46:38 AM
What are your grades and curves? My K-27 will pull 12 cars with room to spare on mild grades (1 - 2%). My C-19 pulls 8 cars on my 2.5% grades without breaking a sweat. Both locos slow down on my 5' radius curves (as do all my locos) with even short trains in tow (4 cars or so), so tight curves definitely introduce noticeable drag.

With respect to the prototype, steep grades really impacted how much a loco could pull. For example, a loco that could pull 20 cars on the flat would find that train cut in half on something as mild as 1% grade. A 2% grade would cut that to four or five cars if that. Grades on the D&RGW routinely hit between 3% and 4%. Looking at the chart linked above, a K-27 has a limit of 183 tons on the line from Chama to Cumbres, which has 4% grades. A single car might weigh between 30 - 40 tons. That's 4 to 6 cars for a single loco. A C-19 has a pulling capacity of 92 tons on that same stretch, which is 3 cars. Easy to see why trains were frequently double- and triple-headed.

See? If you were looking for an excuse to add more locos to your roster, there you go!

(Bach-man, you can thank me later.  Grin )

Later,

K
13  Discussion Boards / On30 / Re: 2-6-0 OR&W on: May 30, 2018, 12:20:19 AM
The non-DCC version of the mogul is easy to convert to DCC. The hardest part is milling out the metal around the motor to give you room to run the wires to the tender for the decoder. Here's a link to a site which will get you going in the right direction.

http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/mogul_dcc/

I did mine for sound, using a Tsunami2 installed in the tender. There's plenty of room for the decoder and a good speaker. (And battery for deadrail operation, but that's a different can of worms.)

Later,

K
14  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Will Bachmann Big Haulers or Spectrum run on Peco code 200 track on: May 30, 2018, 12:03:56 AM
It's not the height of the rail that's the issue. It's the distance from the top of the railhead to the top of the spike detail that holds the rails to the ties. In many cases, there's actually more clearance on code 250 track than there is on code 332 because the spike detail on the code 250 track is much finer than on the code 332 rail, which is often over-engineered for durability, due to the vast majority of it being sectional track and needing to stand up to being assembled and disassembled.

Having said that, the deepest flange I've measured in large scale is just shy of 3/16", on an ancient LGB loco trailing wheel. I have yet to run that loco on any code 332 or code 250 track and have that flange bounce on the spike detail.

I can't speak to Peco's code 200 track.

Later,

K
15  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: G scale Climax locomotives on: May 18, 2018, 07:54:51 PM
Yes, the "DCC Ready" loco will run like your other traditional analog DC locos. What's happening with the DCC-equipped loco is that the decoder needs a certain voltage just to function. In many cases, this is in the neighborhood of 6 volts, but it may be more. Once the decoder gets this requisite voltage, it wakes up and creates a baseline zero voltage line to the motor. It does not all of a sudden feed that 6 volts to the motor. In the case of many decoders, once the decoder "wakes up," it feeds voltage to the motor in a more-or-less 1:1 relationship to the additional voltage going to the decoder. For instance, if you feed 7 volts to the decoder and the decoder needs 6 volts to function, it will feed 1 volt to the motor. 10 volts will send 4 volts to the motor, etc. The upshot is that with most decoders*, at any given track voltage, the DCC-equipped loco will run slower than a non-DCC-equipped loco.

The Climax has the plug-and-play socket in the tender, so if you want to run your loco on analog power, check to see if there's a "dummy plug" in the box that came with it. You can pull the decoder and replace it with the dummy plug to run your loco on regular DC. You will lose your sounds, though.

Later,

K
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