Very clean setup!

I agree, it's nuts....

actually you can run as many trains on a single or multiple layouts with the same transformer, you just need to think about the power required (estimate 2 amps per train with minimal grades) and of course the single contol will set the speed of ALL trains which MAY run at different speeds due to differences in locos, motors, rolling stock, curves, grades.

Greg

I see the other topic... focused on the socket.

What you are asking is for the pinout of the connectors between the loco and the tender...

Not sure that exists, definitely not published... but I sent you what I think the wiring is for the 2 connectors between the loco and the tender, with pins labelled 1-8 and A-H

Greg

Well, it does show the adapter board in the manual.
The user's manual shows the pin connections
so, if you use the adapter board, then you have the connections labelled...

Is it the same as the C19? Yep... is it the same as the K-27, well there were some where the chuff logic was inverted I believe...

But you have the 2-6-0, so that is immaterial..

Greg

Bachmann never sold a weathered loco.

so the question I asked and you only now answered is the second one....

that can be a factor of wheel contour, rail gauge, wheel gauge, etc.

Note your rollers do not have a contour like a railhead...  wandering side to side on rollers is normal on them.

Also, get a pair of vernier calipers and see what your gauge really is, and also measure the back to back dimension on the wheels.

Greg

Quote from: Greg Elmassian on June 07, 2024, 02:42:17 PMare you talking back and forth side to side, like closer and further to a rail

or

waddling like a tipsy person tilting left and right as it goes down the track

or

basically turning left and right as it goes down a straight track?

Greg

Yep, and as bill says you need the set to get it.

BUT!!!!

A suspended system needs to be DEAD RELIABLE, and super light cars and locos are no good. The worst case for too light is (funny you are asking) the TENDER... all the pulling force from the loco goes "through" the tender, and often people need to have a reasonable weight in the tender to keep it from derailing.

Get a good reliable loco, and put ball bearing wheels on the rolling stock (including the tender if you can) and then you will be miles ahead in reliability AND longer life of the loco drivetrain AND the wheels and the track.

Get the wheels with a ball bearing in BOTH wheels on the axle.

Greg

Well, I thought the "Big Hauler" was pretty light... but lightest is the "Little Big Hauler" tender



Available? Well, that may be another kettle of fish...

Greg

Leonard: about where do you live? The value of the loco can easily be outstripped by shipping alone.

Greg

To further reinforce a statement, USAT has actually done "surveys" to ask about interest, instead of announcing something and implying that it will be produced.

While a company may say, well, if we announce, and dealers place orders, that is more reliable than a survey, I can see that is true, but in my mind, it sort of abuses we customers, giving what may be effectively false promises.

I would encourage all manufacturers to do the "better" style of marketing, sending out surveys that are easy to fill in, or perhaps also participating in surveys posted on the forums.

Nothing is perfect, but the customers sales do indeed support the company, if we quit buying, the companies cannot exist, so we do indeed deserve a modicum of respect.

It can be done better, for both "sides".

Greg

Uhh... is there any large scale manufacturer that has delivered as promised?

AML GP-60 - what 10 years?
Aristo (take your pick) - always 3 or more years late
USAT - they are the best, they don't pre-announce...

So, I would not hold your breath for them to change.

Normal procedure is to announce, then gauge interest, then decide to produce, and then a few years later it arrives.

Greg

Wow, 7 years later!

I think you need to get some decals and re-do what you can buy!

Greg

Most of the stuff on the market is not very good, or does not have the higher voltage that G scale needs.

I'd find a 5 amp laptop power supply (cheap) on Amazon, get a 19v one.

Then find a 5 or 10 amp controller. I'd recommend G Scale graphics, about $50.

No offense to Bachmann, I do not believe they make a 5 amp G scale "transformer" (throttle and power supply)

Greg

does not indicate the pinout directly.

The other side of the board helps: