Thanks Bill, added that to my spotting guide:

https://elmassian.com/index.php/large-scale-train-main-page/motive-power-mods-aamp-tips/bachmann-motive-power/shay

Greg

Don't you love spell check Bill!!!   

should have been "distinguishing" between versions, not "disgusting"....

Bill, have you ever found any quick spotting guides to distinguishing (between) the 2 or 3 (versions)?

Bill, have you ever found any quick spotting guides to disgusting the 2 or 3?

I've changed to standard gauge prototypes and 1:29, so my Shays are long gone (my wife loved them)

Greg

I have the explanation on my site:
https://elmassian.com/index.php/large-scale-train-main-page/motive-power-mods-aamp-tips/bachmann-motive-power/shay

Basically, all 3 versions were the same, the 3rd version came with metal trucks and was called 38 ton, vs the 36 ton.

Greg

are you talking back and forth side to side, like closer and further to a rail

or

waddling like a tipsy person tilting left and right as it goes down the track

or

basically turning left and right as it goes down a straight track?

Greg

If the motor is completely free running, it should not overheat even at 24v.... most likely a partially shorted winding on one segment

I replied to your question about the driveshaft on your other post on another forum.

Interesting, so that is a side effect of unsealed bearings?

I could see how pressurizing the gearbox could avoid this, but first report I have read of this... was the loco left outside for a long time? Basically all I can figure was heating and cooling allowed the cooling gearbox to draw moisture with attendant grit into the gearbox.

What are your theories?

Greg

I doubt they will change the design, but the design needs a facelift, and a way to accurately index/quarter steam loco drivers.

The power pickup needs some help, but a simple change in the assembly process would do.

You want grease? Being sealed, they should virtually never need greasing. If you want to grease them, drill a hole and put in a rubber plug.

Greg

Ahh... I checked my Aristo history page, yes, mentioned in 2010
the SW-1500 was in the 1996 catalog.

Well, I'm happy Kader/Bachmann is using the old Aristo molds to make more stuff. I agree, they need to make more, the RS-3 might be a good choice, but I'm thinking they are going more modern.

They are also probably learning their lesson about making big locos that don't fit on every layout. The Mikado would not be a bad loco to bring back either, although it's fidelity to prototype is poor.

greg

I have to comment:

the length of a layout does not DIRECTLY dictate the amps needed in a power supply.

It's the electrical losses between the power supply and the locomotive that are important. This is why there is often controversy, where someone states the 1 amp power supply is not enough, and the next guy says his same size layout is fine.

The losses from from resistance, normally between sections of rails (but can also be poor wire feeder gauge, or poor connections)

So, brass track, 2 feet points, rail clamps, no problem in your "60 foot" layout.

rusted steel track, stock corroded joiners, light gauge wire, no good and perhaps even a much larger (volts and/or amps) transformer may not solve your issue.

So, gauge (pun intended) what you need by the quality of your layout connections, joiners, feed(s) quality.

Greg

How can that gear be universal? Aren't there 2 different axles/gears?

if so, the gear alone clearly cannot be universal.

perhaps a list of part numbers, and then the user searches for that part number is a more permanent solution.

I have a large (750 pages) web site, and over the years, the organization changes, but if you use the search routine will find what you want.

I've had complaints that a 10 year old bookmark no longer works, but my home page says don't do this.

I realize a simple link is easier, but there is a lot of maintenance in effectively keeping a database of bookmarks current.

Greg

first thing to do might be monitor the track voltage and see if it changes when the loco slows...

if it drops, then check for higher current (overload / motor issues) when it slows.

Voltage stays ok, then would suspect the loco, maybe carbon buildup between commutator segments, severely worn brushes, etc.

Do you mean the SW-1500?


it was listed in the 1996 catalog...