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Messages - brokenrail

Thanks, No B units is disappointing when b units are offered for the f7 ,FT and the FA2 .I think many would agree .Would it make a difference if we took a poll since it is still early before there release?Maybe change who ever makes these type of decisions base on potential customer input???
Thanks Again for your time,
Johnny Adam
It seems by how many times this has been read many are interested ,but it is a mystery to me why this type of a question directly to Bachmann gets ignored after 10 days.Be nice to just get a we cannot or we do not know.Maybe it is the type of question where you must call service or something like that.Any Ideas?
Johnny Adam
HO / Re: Overproduced models
December 01, 2015, 10:45:19 AM
Is there a separate column for over produced diesel models ? Should I start in the past with the F7 and now in these modern days a sd40-2 ,or the new fad of the sd70ace witch every maker has produced at least one version along with a few Heritage series.It is good that they are producing steam models for the new generation.Thy would have forgotten what they were since most had never seen them run the rails.The only real influences are the museums ,history lessons and TV along with are models running on the layouts.Just wonder how steam is selling compared to the past generation of modelers that actually seen them in action? Anybody ???
Johnny Adam 
Some success on those that did not have distorted brush housings.They were clean and not distorted from heat,but it would seem they were pressed in there housings crook-id. They all had very strong magnets for there size.
 gp 30 or 35 motors they had some noise in them running, and  when you spin by hand, also I found the brushes were stuck in.Springs came out and looked ok. Found out Bachmann does not sell replacement brushes or springs,,Had one of there 70 toner can motor aprart for the same reason ,found that one uses a epoxy to hold the magnets in ,but it did not hold and the magnet dropped hitting the armature.That was a easy fix even if you lose a spring.They look like they use the springs that Are OFF kadees or the ez mate couple rs
Johnny Adam.
Quote from: jbrock27 on November 04, 2015, 08:27:22 PM
Quote from: jward on November 01, 2015, 10:19:26 AM
the setup is very similar to an athearn motor.

In concept and operation, yes absofruitly.  But I have never taken a Bachmann can motor apart and have not witnessed anyone being able to do that either.  Different story with the other brand you mentioned.  Makes for maintenance and/or repair possible and easier, particularly if something like, brushes, armature, motor housing need replacing.

Rich, I wish you well and luck in your endeavor to have such a lively discussion here, however unlikely given our hosts lack of employ of those kinds of motors and therefore, lack of tolerance for such discussions.
They come apart quite easy by just straightening out the can/housing pinch.The hard part for me was the flywheels are tough to remove, anyhow without a puller ,but a vice lined with rubber to hold the flywheel and a good punch on the end of the motor shaft does the trick.
HO / Re: Soundtraxx factory sound onboard--RS-3
November 25, 2015, 10:01:42 AM
Hello, Please check your motor wiring first .When doing any type of testing it is essential that each step of checking is not ignored the wording you stated is that the wiring Seems tight means unsure.Sometimes wires break also inside there insulation covering where it cannot be seen.This is where a little pull test of the wire will find it when it seems secure or should be before this is done.Looks can be deceiving when it comes to electrical.Have you ran it on DC? If a loco does not run well on dc ,it will never run well on dcc.
Johnny Adam
Hello Bachmann or Yardmaster
In the online Bachmann store they list a New EMD E7 coming soon with a picture of a O  scale model.Are they going to make the B units for them ?Are there any pictures or pre -production photos that can be shared of the actual models?Ii is now may 2016 and they are in the 2016 catalog anything yet??
Johnny Adam
HO / Re: LED wiring on a LT 4-8-2 headlight
November 12, 2015, 09:54:00 PM
I think in order to tell witch one of the black wires coming off the board when they are both colored black can be determined with a volt meter.The meter I  have will show the negative voltage of the circuit if the red lead of the meter is touching it to test.Or you can put the resistor on either black wire then wile powered up touch the legs of the led to the wires and see witch way it lights .Since it will only light one way.Or use some small jumper wires with clips .
Johnny Adam
HO / Re: Soundtraxx factory sound onboard--RS-3
November 12, 2015, 09:41:45 PM
I had the same symptoms with my Bachmann DCC SD40-2 and found one of the wires to the motor was hanging on the solder joint by a thread. Found by accident of course having the shell off run testing it .Then it stopped and  then I wiggled the wires a little with a tooth pic here and there and when I hit the bad one it made a connection and moved the loco a little. I replaced the frayed wire and soldered it in to the motor and board.Seems the wire was to thin with one strand to handle the current.Not a problem since.
Johnny Adam
HO / Re: adding sound to a GE DASH8-40C DIESEL.
November 12, 2015, 04:01:13 PM
There is room under the hood of a split frame dash 8 without milling for your sound decoder and speaker ,but your going to have to completely disassemble the loco and hard wire the motor and trucks and electrically  isolate the motor of course.There is a very good  instructional video on how this is done on You Tube .You will need soldering and mechanical skills.Seems like your ready.Make sure you check your drive-shaft couplings wile your in there for cracks at the worm gear.
Johnny Adam
Quote from: Len on October 22, 2015, 10:52:39 PM
Here's a circuit for a basic directional light set up using LEDs. The capacitor is nonpolarized to deal with the polarity reversals when changing direction.

Thank you for sharing this.I have seen that the opposing LED  flicker will eventually blow the led and this has happened to me over time.
It is a simple circuit of two - 3 mm Led lights .One for the front and 1 for the rear and ONE 800ohm 1/4 watt resistor that is all you need to make it work .The

led's take 3 volts to light.They reverse direction perfectly ,nice and bright.I am using DC .  I have seen in automotive applications on the air compressor magnetic

coil they use a capacitor to protect the sensative low voltage electronics from the voltage spike created when the coil is turned off and on ,but they do not reverse polarity in this 12 volt dc circuit like we do with our model trains in dc.I have noticed that Bachmann uses some type of capacitor on there new motors ,but looks can be deceiving
Johnny Adam.
The wheels are clean and it runs like a Swiss watch.The pickups were all tuned ,adjusted and everything was wired and soldered in.The flickering is on the reverse light only either direction.So if it is going in reverse  the forward light flickers when it should be out.And when going in reverse the forward light flickers a bit and should be out.Thanks
Johnny Adam
I have a question regarding LED lights.For starters I installed some white LED lights in my gp 30 with the proper resistor to make them directional after hard wiring the locomotive since it was a older split frame.They work well directional ,but the light that goes out on the back side of the engine will flicker.I did some research and found that I am missing a capacitor in the circuit to absorb the spikes generated by the motor and in time will blow the LED lights.Someone said to put a capacitor across the motor leads to absorb the spikes .Can anyone recommend the right type to use polarized ,non polarized ,???Thanks.
Johnny Adam