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Messages - brokenrail

HO / Re: SD 45 Wont Move
July 06, 2016, 12:14:01 PM
Just said that.No sense repeating it .I guess common sense is not to common these days for sure.
HO / Re: SD 45 Wont Move
July 05, 2016, 07:21:43 PM
Take the shell off and see if both worm gears are turning wile you power it up on the rail. Sounds like a drive shaft coupling is cracked and not gripping the worm gear.Common problem with the older split frame diesels.The coupling is available.Correction,Still a common problem.Brand new gp 9 did it, but it did not crack ,just fell of  since the hole was not straight in the coupling .It just wobbled off.Have a new one .So much for buying new online and Quality controll being better.
HO / Re: Dcc b units
July 05, 2016, 11:37:50 AM
Santa Fe had some cables boosters gp 60 sd40-2b.B units. They ;D have prime movers in them and slugs do not and are just used for their traction motors.Mr Ward is correct. ;D
HO / Re: Heritage PRR 060 switcher
July 04, 2016, 11:30:23 PM
Give Walthers a call for a diagram .They have good product knowledge ,or try .A diagram may be in the literature  .Bachmann products here  ;D.
HO / Re: Reveiws on locos
July 04, 2016, 06:24:28 AM
On a 2 percent grade mine would pull 2 cars and that was it. The Baldwin modern for small steam has much better build quality ,has a die cast metal boiler and cab that gives it some good weight and is available with sound also. If you like things that are built to last the long road this would be my recommendation .The mogul looks great ,but it is a whole different cheaper mechanisum under the boiler.
HO / Re: Help
July 04, 2016, 06:16:02 AM
So you can increase the voltage to the led's by adjusting the cv's  as the instructions say . Mr Ward may need to look over the literature before saying voltage cannot be adjusted when the cv's involved do this.It is the only a single function decoder with one adjustment for this function and also this function can be moved from function 1 to others.So there are 2 tweeks  ;D
Answer No ;D
HO / Re: Bachmann GP40
July 04, 2016, 06:02:54 AM
The original Bachmann gp 40 was a single drive pancake motor with high headlights and was not the same shell or tooling that is used when they went to dual drive split frame .This shell that Bachmann produces now is the same tooling as the Atlas with modifications to the tooling since they carry it into the future.Same inner tabs inside still for the light bar, the hood,same closed steps at the battery boxes and the big give away is the half closed mold at the hand brake at the short hood along with the hanging fuel tank detail off the sill at the air tanks. Recently they removed the molded on grab irons and reworked the front cab windows holes for the glass with rounded corners so their sd40-2 cab front glass was made to fit.Still does not have cab doors like the Atlas/Roco version of the same original tooling.Mounting bosses were also added by Bachmann to the underside of the shell so that it could be mounted to their frame and the original shell mounting hole was filled by the air tanks of the original .Either the tooling was acquired by Bachmann or it was copied and modified to soot their needs of a gp diesel that was proportionally correct compared to the 35 and the 45 series  that gives us the odd angled cabs and the odd sized cab windows. They are nice running models ,but proportionally incorrect in compairson to the Atlas/Roco later Bachmann gp 40.
If your changing the decoder and using the stock LED light you need to use resistors for the led's unless the decoder has a aux output of 3.5 volts or less or you will make smoke from your led's without buying a smoke unit ;D
Did miss it ,but found the second. Need to go take a ride to support one of the last
LHS in my area and give it a go with the restorer from Microscale.Hope it works .Too many good ones to watch turn to dust in the water
Tried the clear coat method and no luck .It took a wile for the film to separate from the paper backing ,but when it did the image just started to disintegrate in many small pieces. Hard to see why since the decal sheet looks to be in new condition with a good sheen to it and no cracks ,bends before I sprayed a coat of clear lak on it. I did not waste the whole sheet .Just one strip I cut out.Wondering if I used microscale set solution on the film before I dunk it in the water to soften up the film . Anybody try this?
I have had the Alco s4 since it was just released and replaced the speaker twice due to cracking noises from the speaker. The speaker just does not have what

the Soundtraxx 539t  sound along with the default horn actually put out to handle unless you run it at the default setting and that sound is just buried if your

running other sound value locomotives in their default settings so I found that by removing the sound chamber and flipping the decoder over the pickup wires

from the trucks do not have to be crossed over like the factory wiring does and it can also be moved forward that will leave the cab open to add a cab

interior,along with room for 2 speakers with chambers on top of the circuit board and also room for additional weight.This extra space is gained removing the

original speaker and enclosure and the circuit board flip that brings it even with the base of the cab .Flat metal weights extend from the top motor mount

bracket to the front and rear lights so then the circuit board sits level with no bracket needed to hold it only a little tape. Strange thing that when the speakers

are wired in a series they are full of static and low volume.When they are wired in parallel the sound is loud crisp and clear as any high end sound decoder at

half volume along with loud horns without having to back down the prime mover so much you can here the wheels click over the switches or crosses when ran

across . I was warned by Soundtraxx that wiring in parallel can be done ,but cautioned that the volume must be kept down or amp failure is probable.I think I

found that limit when blowing the horn wile the loco was parked and the sound started to get incredibly much louder on it's own.I shut it down quickly and

backed off the volumes a little and retested and all great now. Just wondered if the volume ramping up on its own was a sign or maybe a poor connection in

the board was somehow bridged.My other alco s2 uses a 11+15 sugar cube with a 11mm enclosure that has just about the same volume with deeper tones

.Almost seems a lttle muffled in compairson to the totally revamped flipped circuit boad set up in the other with dual speakers. The single speaker version uses

the old enclosure except for the end piece cut off that allows room for the sugar cube speaker that butts up against the stock open end of the enclosure allowing sound to exit the hole in the bottom of the frame but still has a little muffled deeper tone .Few options here.Seems like the sound board on the Alco s2 and s4 are slightly different with the lighting and the speaker tone output.Any opinions or Ideas ?
HO / Re: 3 truck Climax, again
June 24, 2016, 01:09:31 PM
Same terminology different animal.
Your going to have to tear it down to fix it anyway.Many get intimidated by the looks of things being too complicated then they really are .Be the mechanic and take care in each step of the tear down to explore what is going wrong.Take mental notes or pictures during each step and lay out your parts in a row.This way during reassembly .You just take the row of parts and go backwards. I Have worked with many automotive transmission technicians that do it this way for so many parts.As long as it is in a place where it will not be disturbed 100% it can be done over a long period of time if needed and will have a nice visual layout reference type set up  to make things go together much easier eliminating guess work or a forgetful memory.Take the time to set yourself for reassembly in other words.This method will find the bad parts along the way.
HO / Re: PC Board wire up for the E60 Electic Loco
June 24, 2016, 12:50:54 PM
I believe this board is similar to the dash 8 and a good magnifier will show what goes where .They are labeled for motor,pickups at the front and rear of the board.LED #1 ,2 and 3.If this is a dcc ready circuit board with the plug.
HO / Re: Dcc b units
June 23, 2016, 11:00:39 AM
Roger me too  ;D. Nice to be able to have that minimum speed max traction to avoid a stall up a grade if one has to step away from the controls for that special moment .I think B- units make a statement with time period now since it has been a wile since they have been built or used makes them a unique part of railroad history.