Quote from: Thomas111 on May 04, 2025, 01:32:12 PMI only have a 5-foot radius (LGB R2) available. I'd like to ask if this locomotive can drive through it, even though the instruction says 6.5 feet

Thomas, your translator seems to have confused radius and diameter.  The loco needs 6.5 ft diameter curves.
Google says the R2 track is 5.4 ft diameter.

A gentleman on LSC offered a link to the pge he made up of PHOTOS of all the chassis, by model number!
https://www.stewsplace.net/ModelRR/GardenScale/Bachmann/BachmannBigHauler.html

I think this belongs with the 4-6-0 Identification that is locked and sticky!

Quote from: John6409 on April 01, 2025, 04:34:53 PMscale.Large scale henrietta coach

There's a thread on Gscalecentral.net of a home made "Henrietta".
https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/custom-building-henrietta.322058/

Quote from: RailMan63 on March 27, 2025, 02:42:33 PMthis exact same item on Ebay

Ah. Now I see the set, I note the loco is actually the same old SOUTHERN 4-6-0 as was used in many sets. Looks like the same green as the original battery big hauler!

Phew, what a lot of questions. . .  I'll hit the ones I know something about.

Quote from: tinkerdude on March 24, 2025, 01:02:37 AM1. With my 1st question, in terms of parts... can I recycle parts off 1 train onto another? Meaning did they use the same color green on a different train that matches the green on the Suwanee River? They milked this mold for what it was worth where they repainted it 400x times over... but I am curious if there's another train that's the same shade of green. Some parts are universal like boilers, base plates where they reused the same part in the same color over & over again, but I am wondering if they reused the same green pieces for a different train.

Some of the parts that I'm looking for I can order directly off of Bachmann's site... but it might be more cost efficient to buy a junker & just do a parts swap.

I own 4 other banged up engines... but they are every other color but green. I've tried to do some research on my own, but never got any hits that answered the question. And you can't trust a photo because the way that something looks like on the screen might look different in person. So I'm just wondering where I can get the right parts to repair the train. In terms of a color match.

There are no color swatches for our trains, so it is basically trial and error. B'mann did make several 4-6-0s in green (EBT, ET&WNC, etc.,) but I can't tell you if they match your Suwanee. Loco Bill has a pinned thread about the various sets - that might tell you which are green!

Quote2. What plastic/s where used on these trains? Just so I know what chemical compounds to use on it. I'm pretty sure I have something to help fix that broken handlebar (again it's not the handlebar, it's the trim), but I'm also looking at modifying the boiler in the cabin. Shrink it down so there's more room in there, & make it look like more like the real thing. I just want to make sure that I use the right tools so it's a clean cut & weld.

I use a variety of glues. The best one for Bmann locos might be Testors 281216 - 1 oz. Fast-Drying Liquid Cement with Precision Applicator; Use for polystyrene and ABS plastic; Bonds plastic by dissolving and cementing; Precision applicator makes easy work of gluing even small intricate detailed parts.

Quote3. Are there any tutorials on how to put real coal onto the tender? Because I want to put real coal on my tender.

I don't know of any, but I don't search YT as I've done it enough times already. If you know how to do it then I'm sure you won't have any problems.

Quote4. I'm pretty sure that the electronics in the tender are dead. If not I still kind of don't care because it's kind of banged up, & am still going to do an upgrade on it. I'm sure that it's out there, but I haven't found it...

All that is in an 4-6-0 tender is the sound card, which is not very good. It needs a 9V battery, but there's no reason it shouldn't work.

Quotehow do you install a Tsunami soundboard into a Big Hauler tender?

With difficulty? It's probably easier to install in in the boiler, but as I haven't done it I will leave it to the experts.
The latest gen-7 version [multiple cables between engine and tender] has a complete plug-n-play socket with a pigtail board to make it easy.

Quote5. I know there are places that you can go to get replacement or custom stickers for train sets like this, but is there anybody out there out there that makes literal reproductions (1-to-1 repros) to sets like this?

Not that I know of.

QuoteAnd again I'm no expert at this, but do any of you guys know if cars to the Suwanee River where marked with different numbers? The baggage, passenger, & observation cars would have different #'s on them, but if you had 3 or 4 passenger cars to the actual train, would each car have a different #?

Every railroad numbered all its cars with unique numbers. They have to keep track of servicing, upgrades, reporting to the boss when one falls off the track, etc.  (I'm now waiting to be proved wrong.  .)

Quote6. Basically I'm planning on running everything off the track. Can't do it at the moment, but later when things kind of settle down, I'll do some sort of layout.

Since a lot of the railing is loose on most of the cars that I have or feel a little loose... I'm thinking of taking them out & upgrading them with the metal railing that Bachmann sells for their Anniversary sets.

Just so things aren't loose & flopping around, do you guys have any tips on how to reinstall railing?

The new metal railings are much nicer than the old floppy plastic.  You pull the old ones out and push the new ones in. Long-nose pliers gripping the base will allow you to lever them out. They stay where they are without glue.

QuoteThe last thing I'm going to add in is I want to experiment with light sensing diodes so that way the lights in the cars are off when its light, but on when it gets dark.

Most folk just use a switch underneath, but there's no reason you couldn't add a light-sensing circuit to switch them on and off.

Quote7. And lastly, I heard that Bernie is semi-retired or pretty much retired from making Big Train kits. I'm late to the party here, but I was wondering if I could still get something like that. I figure that if I'm repairing my train that I'd go all out on it in that department. I heard that he's not doing full kits anymore, but if you're looking for a nut or bolt or something... he'll still help you out.

No idea who Bernie is, but the guy making replacement chassis was Barry's Big Trains, and he passed a while ago.
The latest gen-7 loco is probably as good as his replacements, as it has metal gears, a Pittman motor, etc.

QuoteI wanted to replace my drive rods with something full metal (because plastic doesn't work for me), & MAYBE the base plate for the train.

All the Anniversary versions have metal siderods.  If you have an older version with plastic, you can buy a complete chassis from Bmann Parts and swap them.

Quote from: wraujr on December 16, 2024, 12:06:14 PMAnyone know if NWSL.com or "The Gear Man, Jiro Yeramian" makes one?

Well, Jiro has made similar gears for me in the past. As mentioned in Steve's prior post, measure the diameter and number of teeth, and send the info (preferably with the bad gear) to Jiro: [email protected].

Quote from: Loco Bill Canelos on December 17, 2024, 08:18:27 AMtill the wheel slides off the axle. 

Bill, with the brass bearings on the axles, that might be the later type with screws behind the plastic wheel insert? I can't tell.

Quote from: carloscordova on December 17, 2024, 01:21:25 AMHow do you take apart the wheels that are protecting the gear?

If the wheels are press-fit on the axles, then my usual method is to open the jaws of my vice so I can slide the axle in between, and rest one wheel on the jaws, with the other hanging down.  Then put pliers on the back of the hanging down wheel, and tap the pliers with a hammer.

If, on the other hand, those are slightly later style wheels with the brass bearings fitting over the wheel hub, then you look behind the wheel at the counter weight molded in to the face of the wheel. Push it with a screwdriver and the whole front of the wheel will come off. You will then see a screw holding the wheel to the axle. 

Quote from: Loco Bill Canelos on December 17, 2024, 08:38:41 AMOnce you remove the gear measure the size of the axle, then the width and then the radius of the gear. Count the number of teeth

Jiro Yeramian, known as the Gear Man on Facebook, makes gears from Delrin, and I have bought gears for the 2-4-2 Columbia loco from him. I don't know if they fit the 0-4-0, but send him the info and he'll figure out whether he has already made one, or he will make one for you.

His email is [email protected].   

Quote from: VTS mallett on November 21, 2024, 10:28:16 PMAnyone remove a 2-6-6-2 Bach shell from chassis

This is an Owners Manual Thread. Suggest you start a new thread.

Quote from: RGSNH on November 26, 2024, 05:08:00 PMthe center distance between axles and the wheel diameter

I believe this is a replacement for the old Aristocraft FA truck - Bachmann has been selling it for that purpose, besides the Eggliner truck.
I don't have mine handy but I'm sure someone does. See
https://elmassian.com/index.php/large-scale-train-main-page/motive-power-mods-aamp-tips/aristo-motive-power/2-axle-motor-blocks

Quote from: patzwaldb on November 12, 2024, 11:36:08 AMI ordered a new 4 wheel truck for the front but not sure how to get the wires snaked to the motor connection. (no manual)

It is pretty easy to lift the body from the chassis. Just unscrew the big screw under the smoke stack and the 2 screws under the cab. You may have to remove the air tanks first [2 screws each.] All will be revealed - including how the wires snake in to the loco. Note the direction of the truck matters, or you get a direct short.

Quote from: patzwaldb on November 12, 2024, 11:36:08 AMThe Christmas trolley stripped the small drive gears.

The trolleys do that, or melt the motor. Many users buy a used motor block from a USA Trains or Aristocraft diesel and glue it underneath instead.  Check for one on eBay?

Quote from: Loco Bill Canelos on October 12, 2024, 08:04:44 AMMaybe they should keep that gear in stock so others like you can make the same fix. 

The "D" gear is in stock, but the whole axle isn't.

Bill, I'm still really annoyed that they sell the "D" gear without the axle. I've had a lot of experience fixing these [2 more this week!] but your average owner isn't going to know to come here and read how we fix them up.

Bachmann should sell the whole axle with the new gear, or sell an axle and a gear separately.

Quote from: Fred2179 on October 11, 2024, 02:53:46 PM.  I didn't - I put the gear on my mini-drill-press and drilled it 0.250" (1/4") and it now fits.

On reflection, I think that filing some of the flat section with a curved file, before drilling, would be a better approach. The drill might try and go between the flat and the opposite side. Get most of th flat out of the way and the drill will stay central (we hope.)

This is the "D" gear that is currently available in the Parts Store.



It won't go on an old axle past the flats for the valve gear.



With the proper tool, one could flatten the axle across the center portion.  I didn't - I put the gear on my mini-drill-press and drilled it 0.250" (1/4") and it now fits.