Good news. Thanks.

This reminds me when I started working on my layout, say 5 or more years ago.  I didn't have the Bachmann crossover and was trying to do exactly what you are attempting to do.  When I finally saved up enough spare change, I bought Bachmann EZ track 44575 and 44576.  What I did find out was that the length started out to be a (minus) problem, but then I concluded that the length was actually a plus.   So, with that, take a look at this past forum concerning crossovers, it might enhance further your track plan.

Double crossovers      (Click to go to this post)

By the way, what you are trying to do will work, (what Len replied with) just be careful when connecting the track. That is, connect as if you were doing plumbing, i.e., work to toward the end.   I've broken a many EZ track connectors trying to connect track from the middle.

Hope this helps.

I'm looking to install another bridge on my HO layout.  Buying an abutment for the track should (in my opinion) not cost as much as I've found.  I've found that the 3D printed versions cost even more.  Therefore, before I proceed in my endeavor to experiment with stiff foam material, I was wondering if anyone created their abutments using foam instead of buying them pre-manufactured ?

If I'm successful in making two abutments from foam, I'll share images of what I created.... but don't hold your breath.

If we were in a meeting, I would second that notion.  I too, would love to have a figure in the locomotive cab.   Basically, I'm getting of tired seeing my locomotives running around without an engineer/conductor, cause it looks like the moving locomotive is a "runaway".

By the way, I'll look into the idea of heat to bend some figures.
 

From previous users of EC Command Controllers by Bachmann, there is one apparent issue with one of the models that were produced by Bachmann.  Therefore, in order to analyze any further to diagnose your malfunctioning controller, we need to know what model number controller you have.  Note different models have different issues that in some cases can be resolved, other issues not so much.

Will await your response as to what model number controller you are having issues with.  Also providing a more detail response as to what the controller is or is not doing (i.e., power to tracks, no lights on controller, no AC input, etc.) would go a long way to helping resolve your issue.

Here to help, if I can.

I don't know how you found this regulator decoder install post, cause my searches found nothing.  This is really good news, for I've wanted to install a decoder in my ballast regulator, but was hesitant for I felt there wasn't enough room to place the decoder in.  I actually was actively thinking of buying Bachmann's (discontinued) DCC ready version (Model 16947), but again I believe this model only isolates the motor, and one still has to find a location to place the decoder.   

Again, thanks, this provides me with more confidence that I can put a decoder in my existing regulator.

If you wish to keep your original track loop with the turnouts and one line (track) between the two loops (as shown in your image).   Bachmann does have a way to do just that.  Although kind'da expensive, model 44912, Bachmann's Automatic Reverse Loop Module is what you will need.  Mind you, that you have two loops and this may require that you have 2 of these models (one for each loop).  You could use only one module but my experience has found that you can only run 1 locomotive for it to work properly.  As for placing gaps in the track.  I use the plastic track separators (insulated rail joiners) (Atlas #55) instead of buying the EZ gapped track (44597). 

Quote...I have acquired an old EZ DCC controller that doesn't have power to the track I contacted Bachmann who told me they no longer support the older controllers can anyone give me any indication as to where the problem is...

As for the DCC controller, the previous replies are correct.  There are no replaceable parts in the early model Bachmann DCC controllers, that's also true for even the current models.
So far, "knock on wood", by current EZ Command Models (44901s) are still going strong, and I dread the day when they fail.

Hope this helps.

Something I noticed that no one mentioned, as long as this topic has been on around.  I agree that adding weight to light cars helps to reduce or eliminate derailing of cars.   What I have done to support adding weight to my old Bachmann light weight cars was to replace the plastic wheels with metal wheels. This adds weight to the cars so that additional weight doesn't need to be so large.   Another note not mentioned is the type of metal wheels.  There are metal wheels with metal axles, and metal wheels with plastic axles.  Both have weight but the metal wheels with metal axles are slightly (very small difference) heavier as compared to the metal wheels with plastic axles.

I must admit that the metal wheels do in fact cost more than adding other types of weight.  Now that I have given this some thought.  The economics of keeping rolling stock from derailing will need its own topic. 

You're right, this is quite an old thread, thought I'd add some fun by listing and linking those old threads.   (Just click to go directly to that old thread)


HO / Re: GE E60C NOT Amtrak E60CP

General Discussion / Electric Locos

HO / Re: suggestions for the New E60s to the Bachmann

HO / Re: What happened to this model..

General Discussion / Re: What's Under the Tree

HO / Re: Great Scale Model Train Show Timonium MD

This could be one of my pet peeves regarding Bachmann and their model numbers on their E-Z track.  I'll explain..., when you buy E-Z track the packaging will have a model number on the printed package.  Once you remove that track from the packaging, the actual E-Z track will not have the model number on it that the packaging has.   I have had to resort to placing a label on the bottom side of the E-Z track with the packaging model number, so I'll know if that track is an 18 degree or 22-degree curve as an example.       

Thanks, Len, for providing a little clarity to the numbers on the bottom of the E-Z track roadbed.  I thought it was the part of a patent no. that Bachmann keeps track of.

This is so cool, that is, trying to operate two locomotives in a consist mode.   Based on my experience, I too have DCC sound value locomotives, which I found that the new one needed quite a bit of operation prior to settling down to a constant speed. So I suggest that your new locomotive will need some time (in operation) to finally become set and remain at a constant speed. 
As a side note, since you are using them in a consist configuration, to me, that's where all the fun is.  You can take either the first and/or the second engine and manually control their speed as a part of the fun to keep them at an equal stance with one another.  The real fun comes in descending or ascending a grade where one engine may need assistance to support the other.  To me that's a lot of fun keeping pace with the movement of the entire train, and it's an artist that can control both engines, keeping them from jerking along, but produce smooth movement".

Understand that the professional DCC controllers will allow you to do that consisting, or set the two diesel decoders to the same address and/or speed match,  the way the other responders have indicated.   I have the older Bachmann DCC controllers that allowed for two separate controls for each engine. Sorry, Bachmann doesn't make them anymore.  But for me, I have great fun taking a lead engine with several cars, and a second engine in the middle with a trailing set of cars and move them in unison on my layout.  I perform speed matching on the fly. 
I also was told, and I quote:

Quote"Why do all that to get two locomotives to run together when you can program them to do so?  The way you are trying to do this, every time you want to speed up or slow down you have to adjust both locomotives, and until you make those adjustments, they will fight each other.  Can you imagine what would happen on the real railroads if the engineer had to keep running from unit to unit adjusting throttle settings?"

So to me that's where the real fun comes in.  Working to keep the two or even three diesels working together.  But alas, that's me.

The problem you have cannot be answered the way you wish.  Your Bachmann model 44211 is only a speed controller for track power only.   What you need is a separate power supply as Len indicated.  If you want to keep all power consolidated into one unit, you need to have the Bachmann model 44212 or 46605A.  These models will have the track power, and accessory power for your switches all in a single unit.  I do not understand why Bachmann has two different model numbers for a controller that, to me, looks the same.

My recommendation is to keep the power to the tracks separate from the track switches.  This is the way I have done it on my layout.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the details on these locomotives.  As old as I am, I guess I'm still young to have witness these locomotives in operation.  So, can I say that these F?'s and F40PH are no longer in operation, except for tourism, if any?  The reason behind this query is, my HO museum is for "out of service" locomotives and a museum means historical and not for loco's that are still in operation (in use).

I probably will not be of any help, but if you do a search on here using: "trolley noise", You will find quite a few responses to your question.   I for one, was looking into purchasing a trolley for my layout. Sorry to hear that even new versions of the trolleys are making noise.

Like I previously stated, I'm not much help, but hopefully the responses from your search and others will provide some clues.  But by all means, if you find an answer us know too!

You guys are fantastic.  So here's one I've been curious about but didn't think I'd be able to find any details on.  I have the three F7's pictured below, neither of them are the same.  When I bought the "Digital Commander set" way back when, it came with the 4 circular window F7.  I already had the 2 circular window version and the no window version. 

We all know that they are all F7's but is there any additional details you could provide regarding each of these, such as, their different year manufactured or why the windows were added or removed, or due to what the different railroad companies specified, etc.



The info you provide will support my museum on the layout.   And yes, my museum is still under construction, which I might add these locos to it.