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1  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: EM-1 on: October 07, 2018, 02:10:04 PM
What radius curve is it going around?

I have run mine on a 22" radius, but as rich1998 has said, the cab overhang is "pronounced".  It takes almost a 30" radius to have the cab follow the rails like it really should.  On the 22" curve, the engine took the curve, but you cannot have any scenery close to the track or the rear of the cab will hit.  Same with my Big Boy.
2  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: F2A & F7A Shells on: October 01, 2018, 02:25:33 PM
Went to a train show over the weekend and was able to compare the Bachmann F2A with the F7A, and they are almost the exact length and width, but the shells did not look enough alike, mostly in the fuel tank areas, to chance them being interchangeable.  I found someone selling a brand new Bachmann F7A with sound for $95.00, so I bought it and ordered the Barnum & Bailey F7A.  When it comes, I will swap shells so I have a sound powered Barnum & Bailey and then sell the Norfolk & Southern F7A as a DCC ready unit.
3  Discussion Boards / HO / Resistor Wheels for Block Detection on: September 30, 2018, 08:20:13 PM
Just wanted to pass this little tid-bit along for others who may be planning to do this.

I have finished setting up my railroad for block detection so I can see where my trains are.  The last thing I need to do is install the small resistors on my freight car axles so the system can see them.

I researched the task and found I need to glue 10K ohm resistors, 1/8 watt, to the axle so it creates a very small current path across the wheel's insulator.  This small amount of current allows my BD20 to detect that a car is on the block.

I ordered 200 resistors on eBay, and was surprised at what I received.  I needed a magnifying glass to SEE the resistors, and it was impossible to install them on the axles with the conductive paint.

It turns out, that one of the long list of codes in the part number was the number 0201.  Not knowing what that meant, I did not pay that much attention to it, as I thought all the chip resistors were similar except for resistance and wattage.

Well, the 0201 was a size code, which, had I looked into it earlier, meant this resistor was .024" in length, .012" in width and .01" in height !!!   In metric that is 0.6 mm in length, 0.3 mm in width and 0.25 mm in height.

What I should have ordered (and did so this evening) was resistor size code 1206, which is the exact same resistor only about 5 times that size.

The below link is to a sizing table showing resistor sizes.  If you are contemplating doing this, I suggest you refer to the table on this web site before ordering.  You may wish to order sizes
1206, or the even larger 2010.

Hope this helps someone!

4  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: EM-1 on: September 29, 2018, 07:43:20 PM
I model the Alaska Railroad, and having a B&O steam locomotive just looks weird.  I was able to buy an undecorated EM-1 tender shell from Bachmann and I have ARR decals, so it looks like the Alaska Railroad, or at least mine, just acquired an EM-1!   Grin
5  Discussion Boards / HO / F2A & F7A Shells on: September 27, 2018, 08:12:21 AM
Are the F2A and F7A shells interchangeable?
6  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: EZ Command Control + Non-Bachmann DCC Locomotives = Compatible? on: September 25, 2018, 06:41:28 PM
I started with the Bachmann EZ system, and did not like it.  Could not do anything except move engines and blow whistles.  Could not use standard CV's for locomotive numbering.
 Upgraded to the Bachmann Dynamis and again had a totally new set of problems.  Still could not program many CV's, wireless will not work unless there is a line of sight between the transmitter and the receiver and any fluorescent lighting drove the Dynamis crazy.  Again, upgraded to the NCE Power Cab, went wireless with it and I can do anything from anywhere.  Very happy with it.
7  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: EM-1 on: September 25, 2018, 08:24:27 AM
You are right on regarding the size of the EM-1 and Big Boy.  I have one of each and can only run them on 1 of my 6 railroad lines.  Probably could run on 2 more, but the cab hangs over so far on a turn that it interferes with scenery, curved tunnels and curved bridges with any form of sides.  The one line I do run them on has curved tunnels, but I needed at least a 9" stretch of straight track inside the tunnel entrance or the cab would hit.  Maybe if I had 2 rooms to put the railroad in instead of just 1 !!
8  Discussion Boards / HO / EM-1 on: September 23, 2018, 12:45:51 PM
What happened to the EM-1.  I don't see it on the list of HO locomotives any more.
9  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Locomotive shells on: September 22, 2018, 06:11:10 PM
They did use the same shell with one little difference (other than making the newer ones much nicer).  I took the shells off both units, compared them and they looked exactly the same inside and overall shape.  The new shell went over the old frame perfectly.  Screw holes matched and everything.  The old shell went over the new frame  but would not sit all the way down.  When I looked inside of the old shell, there were 4 small tabs in the top of the shell (inside) stopping the shell from going down all the way.  I assume these tabs were for holding light bars.  I used a pair of pliers to easily twist and remove them and the shell went down and mated perfectly.  It seems Bachmann did not change the rest of the fit-up at all as I did not see any difference between the old and new shells except for the speaker mount in the metal frame.  All the other internal mechanical features look identical except possibly using a better motor, as the new one runs circles around the old one, used a sound card instead of just a decoder and modified the metal frame to accept the speaker in the fuel tank.  The appearance and detail of the newer shell is much nicer.  The same shells also are inter-changeable between the new GP-40 (#3002) and the old GP-40 (#3018) and between the old GP-40 (#3018) shells and the new GP-38 (#2007) frame as well.
10  Discussion Boards / HO / Locomotive shells on: September 20, 2018, 11:31:52 AM
A long time back I purchased 4 Bachmann GP40 DCC equipped/no sound locomotives.  I tried to add sound to one of them, but there was no way to install the speaker without almost completely removing all the metal from the frame.  Now Bachmann has released a new version of the Alaska GP40 with sound, but they only have one road number.  I have three options: 1) use them as is with duplicate road numbers on the layout.  2) try to change the road number with a matching font/size/color decal if I can find one or  3) swap the shells.  Does anyone know if the new GP40 shell is interchangeable with the older GP40 shell?  I'm hoping they kept the same shell design and only modified the shape of the frame to accept a speaker, but who knows?
11  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Tropicana car lettering on: December 16, 2017, 05:35:07 PM
Yes, I am referring to the white Bachmann reefers, but I want to remove the Tropicana name and emblem to use the cars with different markings.  Don't want the outline of the Tropicana name or the outline of the Tropicana emblem showing through under the paint.
12  Discussion Boards / HO / Tropicana car lettering on: December 16, 2017, 12:10:17 AM
What type of lettering/logo material is used to print on the Tropicana reefers?  I want to repaint some without the factory lettering showing thru.  Don't know if it was stamped ink, decals or what?  Anyone know?
13  Discussion Boards / HO / Coupler alignment on: October 19, 2017, 10:51:53 AM
I have some Bachmann Silver Series freight cars where the coupler alignment is off slightly based on the NMRA Coupler height gauge.  The coupler needs to go up slightly.  Typically, I install a small spacer/washer (Kadee .010 or .015 thickness) on the truck shank between the truck and the body to raise the coupler, but Bachmann has made the truck shank outside diameter larger than normal, so these washers will not fit.  Is there a washer/spacer available that will work with the Bachmann design?
14  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: ez track on: September 07, 2014, 12:24:18 AM
There is nothing wrong with using short sections of track.  They are all over our Christmas layout.  Don't try to fix or repair the 1" section.  Spend the small amount of money and buy the assorted pack that the one inch section comes in and replace it with new track.  That will work far better than trying to cut a track section and keeping it together unless you are gluing the track down, as Bachmann track does not lock together at a cut and putting a rail joiner on a cut section means removing some spikes anyway.
15  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: magnetic decouplers on: August 31, 2014, 10:04:48 AM
This is from the Kadee web site.

1. Stop with the couplers over an uncoupler and back up slightly with the couplers still over the uncoupler, allowing slack to occur between couplers.
 2. Pull forward bringing coupler off the uncoupler. Couplers will snap to the delayed position.
 3. Back up, pushing the car(s) to the desired location. Do not permit slack to develop between couplers.
 4. Pull forward, leaving the car(s) where desired. Couplers will automatically return to normal coupling position.

Here is the site that contains these instructions.
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