Messages

The simplest way is to splice an Atlas #200 Snap-Relay into the control cable for the EZ-Track turnout. You'll need a power supply and current limiting resistors for the LEDs. Wiring directions are included with the relay.

Len

The Cass Scenic Railroad, originally the West Virginia Pulp & Paper Company (WVP&P) has an 1 in 9 (11.1%) grade. Depending on the passenger load, they use one or two Shays, or a Shay and Heisler, to take five log cars converted to covered passenger cars out and back.

Len

Then what does that make 'all in one' units, like the old Spectrum Magnum?


Len

I remember "transformers" from Lionel and American Fly AC track power was it days. Then HO started taking off, and the DC output transformers started being called "Power Packs" to differentiate them from the AC output "transformers". The only "Controller" I knew of back them was the Atlas #220 Controller for wiring turntables and wyes.

When DCC came along, it seemed like everything was "Throttles", "Power Supplies" and "Boosters". Not sure when "Controller" snuck into the mix as a description for all-in-one units like the Digitrax Zephyr or EZ-Command.

Len

The only 'bump & reverse' Dept. 56 ever released under their own name ran on HO track. The trolley itself was sort of between HO and On30 scale. Other 'bump & reverse' trolleys were O27 (1/50) size, made "for use with Dept. 56" and ran on 3-rail Lionel style track. Bachmann also did an On30 trolley for Dept. 56 that operates on HO track and used their electronic reversing unit, rather than 'bump & reverse'.

It's probably not worth the effort, but Athearn motor brushes can be cut down to fit.
https://www.athearn.com/product/ho-motor-brushes-24/ATH90037.html

Len

A-Line has metal stanchions in various lengths.
https://ppw-aline.com/collections/handrail-stanchions

Len

On a DC layout a decoder equiped loco will generally require around 5 volts on the track before it even starts to move. This is due to the voltage drop through the decoder electronics before any power reaches the motor. Replacing the decoder with a dummy plug eliminates that voltage drop, so the loco will start moving at lower voltages, the same as a DCC Ready loco.

Len

Went an looked at one of my old magnets and it has chamfered eddges on one side to prevent that. I wonder if the newer ones dropped that, or did you possibly install it upside down? If they've dropped that feature, you should be able to file or sand the corners of the magnet down to clear the rail clips.

Len

I had an 0-6-0 that would sometimes hang on a terminal/rerailer section. The 'gear bulge' was just large enough to drag on it. A couple of swipes with a flat file on the bulge fixed that. I didn't start installing magnetic uncouplers until a while after that, and the rest of my locos had more clearance underneath.

Len

The Scotch doublesided tape is about the same thickness as regular Scotch tape. It's never given me a problem with the uncoupler height.

Len

I just use Scotch 2-sided tape. The package says 'permanent', but a bit of Goo-Gone loosens the sticky stuff to allow removal.

Len

In case you missed my answer in the 'General Discussion' area.

This is the only 'N' 0-6-0/2-6-2 drawbar that appears to be currently available:
https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70_115&products_id=313

The number it mentions for the old style, with seperate contact strips, comes back as not found.

Len

This is the only 'N' 0-6-0/2-6-2 drawbar that appears to be currently available:
https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70_115&products_id=313

The number it mentions for the old style, with seperate contact strips, comes back as not found.

Len

Unless you can find one someone made on their own somewhere on-line, there are no "official" wiring diagrams of Bachmann locos. Unfortunately.

Len