The output of Marklin controllers is AC, intended for use with their locomotives that operate on "3-rail" track. Although in their case, the center rail is actually a series of studs sticking up from a bus under the roadbed. AC power can damage the DC motors in locomotives designed to operate on 2-rail track. You could use the Marklin controller to supply variable AC power to lights or accessories designed to operate on AC.

Len

You can use one left and one right #6 crossover to do what you want. Something like this:



You could replace one, or more, inner straight sections with turnouts to create sidings or a yard.

Len

THe 00706 Rail Chief set is HO scale, not O gauge like Williams by Bachmann. You'll be more likely to get an answer asking your question in the HO forum.

Len

From the Tech 6 Manual:

ADJUSTING CVs (Configuration Variables)
If you are an advanced user, you may wish to adjust the decoder CVs. Refer to your
See locomotive or decoder manual for information on CV definitions and their values.
To adjust CVs:
1. Press P; all LEDs will turn on.
2. Input the CV number to adjust and then press ENTER; all LEDs will turn off.
3. Input the CV value.
4. Finish the process by pressing ENTER again. Two LEDs will light showing the
Tech 6 has reverted to DUAL mode and ready to resume running.
To adjust another CV, repeat the above 4 steps.

Len

Micro-Trains conversion guide for Bachmann locos can be found here:
https://www.micro-trains.com/publicfiles/conversions/sheet003.pdf

Note there are three possible conversion recommendations, depending on exactly which GP40 you have.

Len

According to RR-Track the diverging angles of the various turnouts are:

Standard: 30 degrees (18" Radius Curve Equivelant)
#6: 10 degrees
#5: 12 degrees
#4: 15 degrees
#5 Wye: +/- 6 degrees each leg

Knowing the angles makes it easier to figure out curves to make parallel tracks.

Len

I turned 'loose fit' off for those parallel diagrams and the #6 came out parallel using the 1/3-18R curve. I've also done it with an actual turnout after I did the diagrams, and the #6 with the 1/3-18R curve worked. Although with real track there may be a slop factor in there, but it didn't look like it. With the 18" curve in there, I wouldn't run any long cars through there though.

Len

These are all of the parallel track configurations I could get to work using RR-Track software:



Len

I was looking for something else, and came across these toll boths over on the Shapeways site. They sort of remind me of the toll boths in the "Godfather" movie.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/P436GCHJG/toll-booths-ho-scale

Len

If you're using the 3-conductor green wire that came with the switches, the outside wires connect to the outside terminals on the toggle switch. The center wire goes to the 'common' of your power supply. You'll need an additional wire to connect from the other power supply terminal to the center contact of the toggle switch.

Len

Any DCC locomotive, with or without sound, will require a higher throttle setting to start moving than a straight DC loco. This is because the decoder circuitry does not pass any power to the motor until it detects at least 5 volts on the track. Which pretty much means not mixing DCC equiped and straight DC locos on the same track.

Len

Be careful not to let the poles and wires get in the way of getting at areas where maint, or deal with derailments, might be required. Had to deal with that on a display layout where the person doing the scenary put poles, wires and rather large trees exactly where he was told not to put them.

Len

Check the side rides to see if anything is loose, or bent, and binding as the locomotive moves. After dirty wheels, side rod binding is the main cause of steam locos not moving.

Len

Quote from: trainman203 on March 22, 2024, 09:34:23 PMLen, will that micro trains coupler height gauge work on Bachmann couplers? I saw that item you suggested but I believe it is for a different coupler.

Knuckle couplers are supposed to be designed to work with equipment from other manufacturers using similar couplers. So the Micro-Trains gauge will work fine for determining proper coupler height and trip pin clearance.

Len

If you use toggle switches, be sure they are the spring loaed 'Momentary ON' type. You'll burn out your switch motors if you use regular toggles switches that leave power connected. Something like these should work fine:
https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Toggle-switch-MTS-123-Momentary/dp/B01J62WEH4/ref=sr_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.kdM6h9AihpZ8CzICgK4uheFrW4trwp1oeK01xtO3Pfwg_4gp70FxwM9_tdYbA4vNuHwAqoCs1eIhC0bYbBlSxNyjniVltsj9P58lz6MQ_mweD323X1Ut7WeHLMilFI1aEn9r8EYBVOw3Rn7XQz71Yy8oY57Jx1BrSUwhrhyuSHv22Foc22HEu_KyokTn1L8yY8x_v_oZoUZe-1ibbc4mK4U57EjthBReu6idU9SK5e8.Z3TZ5KmJm3qNwFmGJKFjDNJtNJjINvCZfDMB83MS03s&dib_tag=se&keywords=momentary+spdt+toggle+switch&qid=1711146467&sr=8-6

One side of your power source connects directly to the switches, the other to the center contact of the toggle switch.

Len