You should also get yourself a Micro-Trains #1055 coupler height gauge. It will let you be sure all of your couplers are at the same height, and the trip pins will ot snag on anything.

The wheel puller should also work for removing the gear.

Since at one time I ran a model train repair shop, I have an arbor press with attachments specifically designed for installing gears on axles. So someone else on the forum may have to help with how to do it without such a specialized tool.

Len

Looks like that "Faucet Handle Puller" will work. You may have to shorten the 'hands' that slide under the driver just a bit. And possibly thin them down just enough to get between the driver and chassis.

That's a problem I had with my NWSL "The Puller", even on O-gauge trains. I had to thin the bottom on a belt sander to get it between wheels and the chassis.

Len

Have you tried a 'factory reset' to get them back to address 3?

Len

Don't know if there's room for it, but Soundtraxx's web site says the Economi decoder used in that loco supports their CurrentKeeper module.

Len

The user manual should explain how to program locos with your system. If you've lost it, you can download one from here:
https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf7/242/24152/2415107-mrc/prodigy_express2.pdf?0e78718ac3c3f431796cd31727e85790

Len

It would seem simpler to just replace the reverse board with a newer one with the same functionality.
https://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=491_555&products_id=3771

Len

Without mentioning the name, another outfits #6094 track screws for their O-gauge track work well for what you're planning. And they are already blackened. Like Trainman said, you'll have to predrill clearance holes in the track and thread catching holes in the table top though.

Len

Yes, I got it and sent a response. While Lionel and K-Line did a couple of those numbers, With those number blocks they are more likely either original Williams or MTH locos. The couplers are completely different on the two. If they're Williams, there will be a single E-Unit PC board and speaker inside. If MTH there will be two PC boards stacked one above the other.

Len

Yes, if they've been sitting 20+ years you should clean all the old grease out and relube with fresh grease on the gears and light oil on the axle bearings.

As for the couplers, it would help to know what the road numbers on the locos are to determine if they are 'post war' or 'modern' production. It makes a difference.

Len

You describe these as "GG1 HO O series" locomotives, which is a bit confusing. Are they HO or O scale? Is there a manuracturer mark on the bottom, e.g., AHM, Rivarossi, Lionel, etc.?

Len

The only way to add intermediate stops would be with an external reversing unit similar to this one, that allows intermediate stops to be programmed.

https://www.bakatronics.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=753

Len

"Green Diamond" post card:



Len

I've always related "Blue Diamond" to the strike anywhere wood matches that had a blue diamond on the box they came in.

Len

You're not the only one who will have parts links in posts 'busted' by the new interface. Same here, if a link in one of my old posts doesn't work anymore, give me a shout.

Len