Quote from: Techie401 on January 01, 2011, 02:13:51 PM
thank you for the information!  Happy New Year to you as well.  I have one more question...  Does the Bachmann EZ Track connect to any other kind of track?

Short answer, yes. If you don't want to modify the EZ-Track use the Life-Like "Power-Link" adapater tracks for their Power-Loc track system. Connect the adapters back-to-back and connect the EZ-Track to one end. The loop on the EZ-Track will fit in the hollow space under the adapter without cutting it off. Connect whatever other track system you want to the other end of the adapters. If connecting to Code 83 track, like Atlas True-Track, you'll need their Code 100/Code 83 Transition Rail Joiners.

Len

Quote from: jward on December 27, 2010, 01:22:13 PM
len,

i have to ask if you operate your trains. i am not talking about running them in circles, the tyco cars are more than adequate for that. but if you've ever tried to back them through switches into a siding or yard track you understand the shortcomings of both the x2f coupler and truck mounted couplers in general. having tthe two of them together only magnifies the problems. rerailing cars all the time isn't my idea of fun.....

these cars can be converted into decent runners, but this is not something somebody just getting into the hobby should undertake. there's alot of cutting, filing and drilling, plus the fact that the coupler height needs to be dead on in order for everything to work well. the beginner would be better off finding some old athearn freight car kits to put together until they get a feel for what's important to making your cars run well.

My layout is predominately a switching layout, so the answer is yes I operate my trains.

I converted my first Tyco car when I was 12, so I don't think of it as all that hard to do. The "quick and dirty" method is:

Pop to trucks off the car.
Use a pair of sprue cutters to take the talgo coupler box off
Use a "Truck Tuner" http://www.micromark.com/HO-TRUCK-TUNER,8241.html to clean out the journals.
Pop in some Intermountain wheels (the bulk box of 100 brings the price down)
Install a KD #5 coupler box and coupler (trim the side 'ears' off, they'll interfere with the wheels)
Reinstall the trucks by popping the peg back in it's hole.

Slightly refined method:

Pop the original truck off and install the coupler box as above.
Fill the truck mounting holes with JB Weld Kwik epoxy (let it cure overnight)
Use an emery board to smooth the cured epoxy flush with the bolster.
Drill a hole in the center of the filled in bolster with a #50 drill bit in a pin vice.
Tap the hole for a 2-56 screw (tap & drill available from KD, Micro-Mark, or Micro-Fasteners)
Install the truck & wheels of your choice with a 2-56 screw of the appropriate length.

It's not all about the money. It's a hobby, and I enjoy turning a so-so 'toys' into smooth operating rolling stock for my layout. I also found doing such conversions when I was younger helped me develop skills that were useful for more complicated tasks as my interests, and layout, grew.

Len

Quote from: ACY on December 27, 2010, 11:42:02 AM
Also, I highly suggest not buying any cheap cars with Talgo trucks and truck mounted horn-hook (xf2) couplers, this includes Life-Like, Tyco, AHM, IHC, regular Model Power (not Metal train). Look for trucks with metal wheels and body mounted knuckle couplers. Also if you do chose to buy cars with xf2 couplers, you will need to make a conversion car and probably add weight to all the cars.

I tend to disagree with this sentiment. There's nothing inherently wrong with these cars that replacing the wheels with Intermountain's, and body mounting knuckle couplers will not fix. It's not that hard to do, and Tyco in particular did some nice paint schemes you can't find anywhere else. If molded on detail bothers you, they're no harder to upgrade than the old 'blue box' Athearn cars.

Len

Another option is to use either McHenry or Kadee 'shelf' style safety couplers. The shelf is similar to that found on horn-hook couplers, but smaller. It will keep the couplers from bypassing each other if there's a slight height difference when coupled.

Len

Joe,

Did a quick check, and my Williams Geeps handle the UCS track with no problem. My SD, which has much wider P/U rollers, is doing exactly what you describe. The rollers are contacting the center rail and control rails at the same time, triggering the magnet.

I don't own an WBB S2 Turbine, which is what the OP mentioned as having the problem. Are the rollers on the S2 wide, like the SD, or narrow like the Geeps??

Len

Just out of curiosity I dug out my micrometer with the long anvil and checked three 5530s. I found, on average, the control rails and electromagnet 'button' are .045", or just a hair under 3/64", higher than the running rails.

Len

Will there be a non-DCC version available for those who don't like paying for things they don't use?

Len

A bit more info would be helpful:

Do the lights stay on when the engine hum stops??

Is the motor part of the front or rear truck assembly, or is it a can motor with drive shafts going to the trucks?

If you apply power directly to the motor, does it run okay?

Did you accidently connect the track to the AC accessory terminals on your power pack??

Len

The Atlas-O 80 watt transformer, also sold with a "Williams by Bachmann" label on it, works just find with WBB and most PW locos.

It's what I call an "old school" transformer, with common 'U' terminals for the track and accesory power. So you can wire things exactly the way old magazine articles show and not smoke any internal PC boards.

Len

Quote from: phillyreading on October 25, 2010, 03:23:15 PM
Also why can't there be just one system for command control?

Lee F.

Now that's a really good question!

As for the sizes, my rule of thumb is if it's anywhere close to the size of a 1:48 Atlas-O car or loco it's 'O'. If it's not that big, it's O27.

Len

Quote from: trainkrzy on October 25, 2010, 07:51:45 AM
  The old mechanical will get magnetized over time and will not cycle.

Possibly, on a 3-position unit. The stainless steel used 'back when' wasn't the same quality as todays, so over 30 - 50 years the plunger can retain some magnetism and 'hang' occasionally.

More often a sticking plunger is caused by dirt build up in the solinoid. A shot of contact cleaner will usually clear that up. If not, it could be a magnetized plunger.

If the plunger shaft has become magnetized, it can usually be cleared with a "head degauzer" for cassette, VCR, and reel-to-reel (giving my age away with that one) tape decks.

Worst case, except for a few prewar locos, you can replace the plunger/pawl/pin assembly with a new one from Lionel (600-0100-048) made with modern stainless steel. Clean the solinoid bore out with contact cleaner on a cotton swab before installing the new plunger.

Len

Lee,

Regardless of what Lionel did in their catalog, when talking with customers in the retail store and my repair shop I still use the O/O27 terminology. It's less confusing for everyone.

When Lionel first announced their unilateral change to "Standar O/Traditional O" you would believe how many customers came in looking for Lionel's 'resurrected' Standard Gauge track and equipment. They'd tend to get a tad upset when they finally understood if they wanted new Standard Gauge track and equipment it'd be from MTH.

Oh! The only standard in Standard Gauge was the 2-1/8in rail spacing of the track set by Lionel. The trains and buildings were considered toys, and their actual scale varied all over the place within and between manufacturers.

Len

Lee,

I'm aware that technically 'gauge' refers to the track spacing and 'scale' to the proportions of the people, buildings, locos, rolling stock, etc.

There is also a long standing convention, not a defined technical usage, where "O Scale" is used to refer to 2-rail track and equipment, and "O Gauge" is used when refering to 3-rail track and equipment. It's unfortunate some manufacturers are drifting away from this convention, as was Lionel's dropping the "O/O27" terminology when no one else did, to the confusion of many.

Doing trains since the 50's.

Len

P.S. for BJ - Electro-mechanical E-units work fine on DC. Many people add a bridge rectifier to their E-unit to eliminate the buzz from the solinoid caused by AC current. The problem with using DC with post-war locomotives is if there is a whistle or horn, it will go off constantly because DC is used to trigger the whistle/horn operating relay. Modern equipment, with digital sounds, will blow the whistle/horn in one direction and ring the bell in the other, as the DC polarity determines which sound is triggered.

Yes. If you have reasonable mechanical and soldering skills it's not all that hard to do. Depending on the loco you may have to drill some mounting holes, and there will be some desoldering/soldering involved. If you don't like the idea of working directly on the motor power lugs, you can snip the WBB plug off the original motor harness and splice the ERR motor, power, and ground leads to them. Don't forget to slip some heat shrink tubing on the wires before you start soldering everything.

Len

Quote from: stargazerm42 on October 19, 2010, 08:48:35 PM
Thanks for everyone's input.  I will look for information on the DCC forum.
Tom

P.S. - I thought I saw on the Digitrax website, O scale decoders for DCC to use
with the Digitrax system?

To tell them apart, "O scale" is generally used to refer to the 2-rail O equipment that operates on DC or DCC. "O gauge" is used to refer to 3-rail AC equipment, with or without a command system such as TMCC or DCS.

Using DCC on 3-rail equipment would be a bit unusual. It can be done, but it's not common.

Len