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1951  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Williams Couplers on: January 12, 2015, 05:44:40 PM
Your best bet is to contact the Bachmann parts dept directly:  parts@bachmanntrains.com

Specify which type of car they're for.

Len

1952  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: Converting Bachman DC engines to DCC on: January 12, 2015, 05:34:40 PM
There probably has. The fastest way to find out is to do a search using key terms: Spectrum, Convert, DCC in either the HO or N forum, or both, depending on the scale you're doing.

The "search" button is in the middle of the bar just below the date and time at the top of the page.

Len
1953  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Wye Junction on: January 12, 2015, 12:50:10 PM
You can build a wye using three standard switches, either two left and one right, or two right and one left.

If you think of it as a triangle sitting on it's base, with the point at the top, the base will be roughly 4.5ft wide from the point end of the switch on the left to the point end of the switch on the right. The top of the triangle will be about 3ft about the base of the wye.

The top will "lean" about 6in left or right of center, depending on the switch combination used. With two two left and one right, the top "leans" to the right. With two right and one left switch, the top "leans" to the left.

Using two left and one right switch, the layout of the pieces would be:

Triangle base:

LH Switch, 9in straight x 3, 3in straight x 2, 2.25in straint x 1, RH Switch

Left leg:

18in radius curve, 9in straight x 2, 3in straight x 1, 1.25in straight x 1, straight leg of upper LH Switch

Right leg:

18in radius curve, 9in straight, 18in radius curve, curve leg of upper LH switch

The left and right leg pieces swap if you use two RH and one LH switch.

About the only way to get a smaller wye would be to use Code 100 #4 wyes mounted on cork from a different track system.

Len
1954  Discussion Boards / N / Re: Bachmann 44896 N Scale Track Pack on: January 12, 2015, 11:14:09 AM
The 'Accessory' terminals are the right place to get power for the switches. If one leg of the 'U' connector will not fit into the push connector, strip the wire to expose the copper, and insert the wire into the push connector.

Len
1955  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Looking for a loco on: January 12, 2015, 11:10:00 AM
The ALCO long nose cab unit designed for passenger service was the PA. There two basic models, the PA-1 with 2,000hp and the PA-2 with 2,250hp.

The shorter nose ALCO cab unit designed for freight service was the FA. Again ther were two basic models, the FA-1 and FA-2. Some later model FA-2's were lengthed so a steam generator could be added, and were redesignated as FPA-2's.

Both the PA and FA had a square grill around the headlight, which is the easiest way to tell an ALCO from an EMD cab unit.

Len
1956  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Do they make frame in copper before? on: January 12, 2015, 09:51:25 AM
Strictly speaking, Zamak and 'Pot/White Metal' are both zinc alloys.

The difference is, Zamak has set standards for the percentage of other metals alloyed with the zinc. This allows control of density, brittleness, machinability, etc.

'Pot Metal' is just that. Whatever's handy gets thrown in the melting pot with zinc, and you get what you get without any quality control.

And yes, GO COLTS, GO!

Len
1957  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Looking for a loco on: January 12, 2015, 09:45:08 AM
If the cab has a center window on the front and back, so a crew member could look across the body roofline, you have either an ALCO RS-1, RS-2, or RS-3 road switcher.

Len
1958  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: operating horn on a Williams GP9 on: January 11, 2015, 07:12:35 PM
If the F3 is a WBB with a True Blast/True Blast II horn, the KW should operate it with no problem. If it's an older Williams loco, with the long PC board and separately mounted speaker, sometimes the PCB's get wonky (to use a technical term) with age. Or the speaker might be damaged. In either case, it's a simple job to install a TB/TB II sound unit.

Len
 
1959  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: E Z street on: January 11, 2015, 07:07:32 PM
Yes. Super-Streets are a slightly different grey, but otherwise compatible with EZ-Streets.

I forgot, they didn't call them "bumpers" for Super-Streets, they were "barricades".

The original K-Line part number was 22379, the 'K-Line by Lionel' part number was 6-22379. They come in a pack of two and just plug onto the end of a Super-Street or EZ-Street track section.

You'll probably have to hunt on-line to find them.

Len
1960  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Do they make frame in copper before? on: January 11, 2015, 06:49:27 PM
I suspect your right about the loco being stored in a damp, or at least humid, location for some period of time.

I learned about Zamak when I worked at a marina during summer breaks when I was a kid in high school. These days, they're mostly stainless steel, but back in the day a lot of boat fittings were nickle and chrome plated Zamak castings. If the plating got worn away, they would get that green fuzz on them from being exposed to spray and humidity.

Len
1961  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: how to use dcc for point-to-point &/or station stops? on: January 11, 2015, 05:52:45 PM
There is also software available from JMRI that lets you automate DCC train operation.

Info at: http://jmri.sourceforge.net/help/en/package/jmri/jmrit/logix/WarrantTable.shtml

It gives more control that the device Hunt references, but it does require a computer and interface connection to your DCC system.

For simple point-to-point operation, the hardware solution is probably a better way to go.

Len
1962  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Do they make frame in copper before? on: January 11, 2015, 05:43:22 PM
Anywhere from 1% to 3%, depending on which of the five classes of Zamak (Z2, Z3, Z4, Z5, Z7) it acually is. Since there's enough copper to cause the green film, this chassis is probably in the 3% range.

Len
1963  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: EM-1 Problems? on: January 11, 2015, 05:38:19 PM
If there's a way to mount a different board, and you know which connections, e.g., motor outputs, track power inputs, lights, etc., are which, then it should work if everything's connected correctly. And a properly wired dummy plug is installed.

Len
1964  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: EM-1 Problems? on: January 11, 2015, 02:59:46 PM
Only you can decide whether or not to modify your loco.

The basic questions are, do you plan on operating it with DCC at some point in the future? And are you comfortable doing this kind of modification?

If yes to being comfortable doing this kind of work, and future DCC operation is possible, then you probably want to use a PCB with an 8-pin dummy plug. If not, you're probably better off hardwiring the connections directly.

Whatever anyone else says they might do, you're the one who has to decide.

Len


 
1965  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Do they make frame in copper before? on: January 11, 2015, 02:27:13 PM
Zamak is a zinc and aluminum alloy that contains some copper, and trace elements of some other things. So it's possible the green film is from the copper in the Zamak if the loco was stored in a damp area for an extended time. A green "Scotch Brite" should take it off, and a coat of buffed bee's wax keep it from coming back.

Len
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