Check out my post on Les' Turntable wiring further up the forum list. I have an Atlas surface-mounted unit. As was mentioned we really need to know which turntable you have; but I will confine my remarks to the Atlas unit.

The Atlas turntable has a built-in polarity reverser (remember when a turntable deck travels past roughly 90 degrees, the polarity of the deck needs to be changed). The Atlas (and most other turntables have this feature build in OR one has to reverse wire some of the lead in tracks. Assuming your truntable has the feature built in, and you are operating in DCC, wire all lead in tracks with the same polarity as the initial lead in track (the one that runs from the rest of the layout to the turntable itself). If you are running DCC, I strongly recommend that you power the turntable motor unit from a separate transformer (these can be had cheaply at train shows...any inexpensive, used unit will do) through something like a momentary contact switch or doorbell button. The separate transformer allows you to set the speed of the turntable deck. There are other methods of powering a turntable motor; I am giving you the simplest and probably most reliable way.

Again, we really need to know the brand of your turntable as some of these units are quite complicated (using a photoelectric cell to index the deck). Get back to us please.

Yes, there were several syles of hook/horn couplers...usually the pivot hole was of different sizes. Like Yampa Bob, I think you will do much better with one brand of coupler. Personally I like the Bachmann EZmate brand as they are rugged and less expensive than other brands (both Micro Mark and Walthers sometimes have these on sale for even greater savings). I also cut off the trip pins because: 1) they can inhibit uncoupling with a skewer and 2) need careful adjustment so they don't foul turnout rails.

Regarding magnetic uncoupling: I have yet to see these work well. Recently I visited a large club layout where I took abuse (most of it good natured) for nutering my couplers. Throughout the session, I observed numerous problems with the [Kadee] uncoupling feature. I believe in the KISS principle so the Newburgh, Dutchess & Connecticut RR uses the Hand of God skewer to [flawlessly every time] uncouple cars. Again, that is my opinion. BTW you could probably buy a hundred-weight of skewers at Walmart for the price of a couple of Kadee uncoupling magnets.

I have the Atlas surface-mounted turntable and also was concerned about wiring it for DCC. The factory said to wire it the way the instructions said. NOT TRUE! The Atlas turntable has a built-in reversing "mechanism" to reverse the polarity of the turntable deck rails. All the operator notices is a pause in sound (or the headlight going out) when polarity is reversed. The instructions call for wiring all "B" lead in tracks polarity opposite that of the "A" track wiring...don't do this! All lead in wiring should have the same polarity (or there will be a short when the engine travels from the deck to the lead in track). I fully realize that you have a Walthers turntable; but I thought such a simple polarity fix would be already wired in. If your turntable deck rails get their power from the deck truck rail, you will probably see some sort of gap about halfway around the rails (actually there are two gaps equally opposite each other). The gap is where the poloarity is reversed. Again, if you are working in DCC, wire all lead in tracks with the same polarity. Hope this helps.

I have had lttle trouble mating Kadee couplers (#5) with Bachmann EZmate units. Having said that, I would recommend that you select one brand of coupler and stick with it. Couplers of the same brand usually give you less heartache than a mixed lot. On the Newburgh, Dutchess & Connecticut RR, I have switched exclusively to Bachmann EZmate: they are cheaper and very rugged. What I have done, for years, is to snip off the trip pins on all my couplers. I have found the decoupling magnets aren't all that effective and arent' worth the cost and trouble. Go to Big Lots, Wal-Mart (or whatever) and pick up a bag of bamboo skewers (should cost around a buck). Insert the skewer between the attached couplers and twist...voila the couplers part! Granted, this would not work on a wide layout or a secton of track that is not easily reached...but on my 30" wide switching setup - it works fine. I would say the most important item to keep in mind is to check coupler heights (I check the entire fleet every 6 months).

I do not see the appropriateness of  the English 101 lesson; don't you think a model railroad site should be for the hobby? I am sure there are many other websites devoted to language skills. Yes, I too have been amused by misspellings and improper syntax. So what? This is a website whose function is to share our combined knowledge in order to solve a brother modeler's problem or question. Let's keep with the intent of this thread OK? Good luck to all...and thanks for the assistance you have frequently given me.

Gee...I don't know: a 4-4-0 pulling heavyweight cars? Why not get something a little more appropriate? If you want a light engine how about a Pacific? American 4-4-0s were THE engine at the beginnings of rail traffic in the U.S. They handled rough, uneven track and pulled the short cars of the day. Because the freight demands of the nation changed, the railroads went with increasingly larger engines to handle the demand: Consolidations etc. One of the problems facing early railroads was the fact that the rail infastructure was not designed to handle the larger engines. This resulted in the construction of heavier bridges and culverts as well as the introduction of heavier steel rail.

Anyway and American 4-4-0 would look best pulling 8 to 12 freight cars (of the 36' or smaller variety) and 3 or 4 Overton-type passenger cars. I just think you could spend your modeling dollars on more appropriate motive power...of course they are YOUR dollars. Have fun with whatever you decide.

I have two of the little buggers and love them both...sweet runners. Both of mine came from Micro Mark (one steel cab - DCC and one wood cab - DCC/sound) which seems to have the best price I found. Other than a programming glitch (see my post regarding programming booster), I have had no problems with either engine.

As far as pulling a passenger car at pace...what pace? Since I only have a shelf layout, I cannot really get these babies hoofing. I can tell you that, during the break-in on a circular track, they seem to fly. American 4-4-0s were extremely light engines that pulled short strings of cars on less than perfect roadbed. In other words, speed was not one of their requirements (excepting Old 999 of course).

I thought I would answer my own post in an effort to provide someone else with the information I have just attained. Today I happened to sit next to an aerospace electrical engineer at HSV. I asked him about my power supply problem and he said as long as the output of the power suppy was greater than the requirements of the circuit there wasn't a problem. The problem lies in having a power supply that is too small.

Upon my return home, I was pleased to receive a reply from the Model Railroader forum that echoed the same advice. I hope this helps someone else out there. If you are trying to program a Soundtraxx (or other advanced sound decoder) with the MRC Prodigy Advanced DCC unit; you will need a programming booster. BTW: those Bachmann American 4-4-0s are sweet runners.

An additional suggestion is to use 91% isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) and a used dryer sheet. Paper towels can leave lint in the workings of your locomotives. Notice I specifically mentioned a USED dryer sheet. After use, the sheets no longer contain the softening chemical and are incredibly rugged. I have used this technique for years without mishap.

Dampen the USED dryer sheet with alcohol and place over a section of track. Place the drivers on the damp dryer sheet and add power whilst holding the engine in place with LIGHT pressure. You will be amazed at the amount of crud that will be transferred to the dryer sheet. Diesel engines can be done one power truck at a time...same process though. A second USED dryer sheet can be used to dry/buff the cleaned drivers. Sorry, but on steam locomotives (and rolling stock) you still have to use the old Q-Tip method on the non-powered wheels.

Without getting into the physics, metal wheels stay cleaner much longer than plastic ones. Additionally the track stays cleaner - longer - with metal wheels...they are well worth the investment. I hope this helps.

Recently I posted a request for information regarding my inability to program Bachmann 4-4-0s with the MRC Prodigy Advanced. Your solution was to acquire a programming booster. Given that the 4-4-0s come with a Soundtraxx decoder, I decided on their programming booster (PTB-100). All was well until I came across the following in the installation directions: ...you may purchase and use a dedicated power supply rated at 15vDC, 500mA. My problem is that I cannot find such a power supply. A Google search and a call to Radio Shack got me nowhere...Soundtraxx doesn't even sell a power supply for their own product!

In despiration, I tried eBay and found two power supplies: 15vDC, 400mA and 15vDC, 800mA. The seller of the 800mA model assured me that it would work "just fine". While my knowledge of electronics is limited to changing light bulbs, I am certain of the fact that electronics are very easily damaged by incorrect input voltages.

My question is: Where does one buy a 15vDC, 500mA power supply? I have written to Soundtraxx and haven't received a reply (and probably won't). Any suggestions would be helpful. As always...thanks!

Having owned a couple of small businesses...start up funds can be rather steep - especially for a new product line. That not withstanding, I would love to see a turn of the century Mogul. As it stands I own two Spectrum 4-4-0s (one DCC+sound, one DCC only) and both of them are outstanding runners. So Bachmann: When are you going to release that Mogul?

Thanks for the advice Rich. Your suggestion, coupled with the suggestions from the MR Forum, has led me to order a Soundtraxx PTB100 programming booster. Apparently the MRC Prodigy Advanced system doesn't generate enough power to program some decoders. I sincerely appreciate your time and suggestion.

Ray
Newburgh, Dutchess & Connecticut Railroad
"Keep your hand on the throttle and your eyes on the rail"

I have two of the Bachmann American 4-4-0s (one is DCC and the other is DCC+sound). My DCC system is the MRC Prodigy Advanced unit and I have had NO trouble programming other engines with it. Unfortunately, I have been unsuccessful in programming either one of my 4-4-0s. I recently added a post on the Model Railroader forum asking for assistance. One participant said I needed a Tsunami Programming Track Booster. Is this true?

My next qestions concerns CV values. According to the MR reviews suggested CV values are: CV#2 = 15, CV#3 and 4 = 5. What value should I set CV#5 (top voltage)?

I absolutely love these engines and only wish I had waited before purchasing the first (non-sound) model. I would love to be able to program each engine with its own unique address.

Thanks,
Ray
"Keeping my hand on the throttle and my eyes on the rail"