Good catch on your advice about checking the current capacity of any connector Jeff. I would strongly advise any of us 'less than electronically informed' hobbyists to ask someone knowledgeable - BEFORE purchasing/installing any electronic equipment. Judging from the several UK forums I occasionally view, these parallel connectors are frequently used in the exhibition circuit (...however that does not mean they are appropriate in every application).

Regarding dealing with electronics vendors: Several years ago I had occasion to purchase a dozen SPDT - center OFF toggle switches. I found a good price on the Internet and ordered using my credit card (...with the assumption that the company was based in NY). The next credit card billing cycle, I discovered I had reserved some rooms at a very nice hotel in London, UK. [I went on the hotel's website and can attest that this was a very nice hotel.] In addition to this charge, there were other charges in Taiwan.

A call to Chase (they were fantastic) put a halt to the transactions and a cancellation of that credit card (with no charge to me). I did receive a bill from that hotel, in the UK, and decided to call their billing department. This hotel was extremely helpful and said to disregard any further bills from them (it helped that the person I talked to was a model railroader). My point is be very wary of purchasing items directly from overseas - without previous knowledge of the vendor. [Incidentally I did receive the toggle switches I had ordered!!]

In closing, I suggest you use eBay/PayPal to do any foreign purchases. In fairness, I am obliged to say that I frequently deal with vendors in the UK (E. Hatton's, Langley Model Works among others) and have never had a problem (sometimes the shipping is cheaper, and faster, than it is in the States). Be cautious and aware.

Regards,
Ray

I did some Internet 'surfing' and came up with a couple of options for connecting multiple wires between modules - or from the layout to a portable (detachable) panel. [DISCLAIMER: I know virtually nothing about electronics. Living near Huntsville, AL one is surrounded by a seemingly endless number of 'rocket scientists'. I made the mistake of asking a neighbor about our shared problem this morning...this is what I understood from the conversation (most of it went 'way over my head).]

My neighbor said that connectors should be 'matched' to the task as hand. There are many, many connectors that will do what we have been talking about on this forum.  [...and no, he won't 'liberate' any from NASA.] I have listed those connectors (that I remembered) below. Please note that each of these comes in a variety of sizes...depending upon the number of separate wires that can be connected:

This is all 'Greek' (or was that 'geek'?) to me; so let the reader beware. I searched for 'parallel connectors' and came across some on eBay. The URL is http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=See-All-Categories&_nkw=Parallel+Port+Connector+DB25+DB-25+25-Pin+Adapter+Male+DIY+Good+Quality+NEW I wold love to show a picture, but I no longer use my Photobucket account.

I do not know the size limit on these connectors; but some research will reveal that fact. We used to have an electronics supply house in Huntsville (Mock Electronics) that stocked EVERYTHING. Unfortunately they decided to retire and close the business. Parallel connectors seem to be readily available on line however.

I hope this helps (personally I use Blue Point turnout controllers and don't have to worry about such things). Good hunting!

Regards,
Ray

Thanks for the walk down 'Memory Lane' Don. Yes, I remember the 'Trash 80s' and their cassette drives. How about the similar Commodor PET? I went to the 'dark side' and got all my training on Apple products ('funny how the 'dark side' is now the 'bright side'). Anyway things have definitely changed. I wonder how much change will occur in our hobby over the next couple of years?

Back to the thread: I just wrote to a friend in the 'People's Republik of Kalifornia' and he uses RV > auto connectors on his [portable] layout. A quick check through the 2013 RV Accessories catalog showed that these connectors range from 4 to 7 circuits. Our motorhome has a 7-way connector that I would think is too large/heavy for our hobby use (although there are flat connectors that look smaller). I think DCC requires much less in wiring and, therefore, would require a smaller connector.

That being said, any powered turnout controllers would need wiring - from the controller to the panel (assuming you aren't using point decoders). On some layouts that can result in a lot of wires! I guess those previously mentioned computer connections would be the best.

I will try to display my electronics ignorance at our local Radio Shack and see if I can get a part # on those PC connectors.

Regards,
Ray

I have notice a lively, and interesting, discussion on portable control panels and would like to contribute. For some time I have been a member of the Narrow Gauge Modelling Online forum (...a UK forum) and, while I don't model in narrow gauge or English railways (more's the pity), I have learned a great deal from this website. It can be accessed (although you must join to go further than the 'welcoming' page) at http://ngrm-online.com/forums/index.php?

More to the point is how to reliably connect all those DC block wires (not to mention turnout wiring) each time the protable control panel is attached? Our clever English brothers use various computer plugs. If you remember the days of yore in computers, they used various plugs/sockets to connect printers, disk drives, etc. to the CPU. [You young-ins will have to take my word for this...heck we used to make 'do' with 16 mb.] Those same plugs can be had at Radio Shack and will handle 20+ wires in come cases. Anyway those folks in the exhibition circuit (UK) have to put up, and take down, their layouts on a regular basis. Many of these layouts utilize those aforementioned computer plugs. I am sure there are some very knowledgeable people on this forum that can give us the number of said plugs.

I hope this helps by giving a possible answer to the portable control panel question. Oh, another tip, I learned from that Welsh website was to use plastic binding pieces to hold wiring in place...genius!

Regards to all,
Ray

PS: Jeff, it looks like you have peaked some interest with your thread.

'Just had to stop by this forum to see what other posts there were on a very unique layout design. Apparently this has caught the interest of several folks...for good reason. You guys have sharp eyes as I didn't notice the nonparallel tracks. I also failed to fully appreciate the operational aspects of this design...well done!

However, it was JWards fuller illustration of the hoisting aspect that really blew me away. Guys, there is a lot of engineering in this project...probably far beyond the average 'Joe'. Think of the pulley/winch assembly that has to work exactly the same - every time for the layout to be raised and lowered evenly. Amazing. When you couple that with the 'manhole' in the layout's center for maintenance, this is over the top!

BTW: Check out the tools on the workbench behind the layout. This guy is no 'shade tree mechanic'. Kudos to the builder...you da' Man!!!

Regards,
Ray

Gosh 'J' I haven't been on this forum is quite a while; but had to reply to your post. I have this aversion to 4' x 8' 'standard sheet' (uncut) layout. [My feeling is that little can be done to make them interesting...aside from adding more track...close to impossible in this example.] I've seen some really interesting uses for the good ol' 4x8...by cutting the sheet into various shapes and reassembling it into a varied assembly. Another 'aid' is to run a scenic divider down the layout to limit the sight lines. This layout is a 'standard' 4x8...but taken to the 'n-th' degree. What a clever fellow to have thought up/and built this concept.

I couldn't help noticing some 'rods' that appear to run to the ceiling and are bolted (?) onto the layout itself. Did this layout have the capacity to be raised and lowered? If so, that is a nice piece of engineering. I am assuming that space was a concern...why else have a multi-layered spaghetti bowl?

Thanks for showing us this (nice drill press in the background as well). I don't know when I will 'peruse' the Bachmann forum again; but wanted to 'touch base' on this project...very interesting.

Regards,
Ray

Ah, the age old problem of dirty model railroad track and the uncounted ways of combating this menace. I guess it is time for this old runner to weigh in on the subject. I, too, had a layout in a garage (unheated, not air conditioned and full of dust) for a number of years. Strangely, I found that seemingly hostile environment to not have much of an effect on the operation of my railroad. In those days, I quickly ran a Bright Boy over the rails (every other week) and following a quick wipe down with isopropanol, everything ran just fine...well, generally speaking. That was then, but what about now?

The Monks Island Railway is now housed in our ex-guest room - and is complete with a Sharper Image static precipitater. Our home uses forced air heating/cooling; and we had a whole-house static precipitator installed with a new HVAC some years ago. Now I rarely have to clean the rails.

More to the point of this discussion is why locomotives become 'balky' in the first place. Nickle silver (III) produces an oxidation layer that is conductive by itself. Unfortunately the deposit of oils, human epithelial cells (makes up most of the dust in your home) and moisture all combine to produce an uneven layer of nickle silver oxide. It is this uneven layer that causes us much agitation.

A very close examination, a model railroad locomotive in operation, will show some very faint arcing between the wheels and the rail. This 'arcing' causes the mix of nickle-silver oxides/dust/moisture/etc. to form into 'dots' instead of a smooth layer. These 'dots' cause the locomotive's wheels to break contact with the rail...hence an interruption of electrical energy.

So what do we do to cure/combat this condition? The easiest way is to not rely on power from the tracks. Effective battery power for HO models is definitely on the horizon; but unlike the larger scales (I'm thinking O and G here) such small, efficient battery power is not here yet. [Darn.] Nickle-silver oxide must be removed mechanically from both surfaces: the railhead/inner lip and the locomotive's wheels (not to mention all the wheels in your collection). [I should note that metal wheels deposit less 'grunge' than plastic ones.] Any mechanical cleaning must be followed up with some sort of chemical cleanser - if only to remove the (now loosened) oxide.

Someone mentioned above that all wheels, ON ALL CARS AND LOCOMOTIVES, must be cleaned (sic. both mechanically and chemically). Assuming you have done that, the same thing must be done to the track. What would I recommend using? I like to use a clean Bright Boy on the rail heads (when the Bright Boy pad gets dirty simply run ALL surfaces over some medium-grade sandpaper to clean it like new). To remove the residue from this process - and to seal/improve the conductivity I like to follow the Bright Boy cleaning with an application of Aero-Car ACT-6006 Track & Rail Cleaner. [To apply the ACT-6006, I use the IHC Track Cleaning Caboose and forego the tank - only wetting the undercarriage pad with the cleaner.] Incidentally, after cleaning the locomotive's wheels with an artist's eraser, I go over the wheels with ACT-6006 using some medical cotton swabs...the ones with a wooden handle (Walmart, or you local drug store, handles these).

VERY IMPORTANT: Allow the locomotive (or rails) to completely dry overnight. The combination of mechanical cleaning and 'rinsing' with ACT-6006 (or isopropanol) works wonders. The Monks Island Railway only requires track cleaning every 3 or 4 months (locomotives a bit more frequently...helps keep the track clean). Pretty easy huh?

I haven't mentioned turnouts so I will now. The point rails on most turnouts get their electrical power through direct contact between the point rail and its adjacent stock rail. This connection must be firm and free of contaminants (a very prone area whilst ballasting). After cleaning the rail heads in the manner described above, I use a very fine wet/dry sandpaper between the point rail and its adjacent stock rail to keep this area corrosion free. GENTLY hold the point rail against its adjacent stock rail - such that the sandpaper is 'sandwiched' between each. GENTLY move the sandpaper from side to side. Remove and follow the same procedure with the other point/stock rail.

While this sounds complicated and time-consuming...it isn't. Overall the best thing you can do is: keep those locomotive wheels sparkling clean, run all metal wheelsets and twice a year clean all the wheels on your other rolling stock. Oh, you might just want to pray to the 'model railroad gods' for that battery power I mentioned above.

Regards,
Ray

Hey Jim, Thanks for all the support and advice you gave to me. Thanks for those helpful telephone calls as well (...no, I'm not sorry about those Saskatoon jokes). You were an inspiration and one of the 'bright lights' of the hobby...somehow things will be a little darker because of your passing. While we never met in person, I counted you as a dear friend; for friends are those rare people who ask how you are...and then wait to hear the answer.

Perhaps Henri Frederic Amiel said it best; "It is not what he has, nor even what he does, which directly expresses the worth of a man...but what he is." You will be sorely missed by many of us.

'Till we meet again my friend,
Ray

Going along with the theme of this thread, who can forget the widely read book: "HO Railroad That Grows" by Linn H. Westcott? That book guided me through the construction of my very first HO layout (...and, yes, definitely a 'spaghetti bowl'). Believe it or not, I still have a copy (circa 1958). "The HO Railroad..." was published in successive editions until 1886!!!

Books, of this genre, were the stuff young man's dreams were made of (- before cars and girls of course). My dad and I completed the layout as far as the drop-down yard (that was a lot of fiber-tied, brass flextrack and "Snap Switches"). Eventually I moved on to cars and girls (although not necessarily in that order) and the layout was sold. Who knew that the little book would lead to a lifelong interest in model railroading?

When I think back on that layout (darned if I can remember its name), I can almost feel the frustration of soldering together that Suydam's Black Bart Mine brass kit. Thank the gods that my father was a consummate craftsman and helped his 13-year old son with such a difficult project. Ah, memories...

Ray

Good morning jbrock. I'm sorry, with all he activity yesterday, I neglected to visit the Forum and missed your question. [As an aside, I visit the Bachmann Forum very infrequently anymore.] Yes, I was a vendor at the show; and am pleased to say that we sold out. This means the end of an era of selling at train shows.

We have decided to stop selling at shows because of: generally sluggish sales and the cost of going to (and attending) these events. I thank all the folks that have patronized our booth over the past years - and wish all in the hobby well.

Best wishes to all,
Ray

Those of you living in the "Heart of Dixie" are now informed of the Gadsden Train Show to be held Saturday, April 19 from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm. The show is held in Gadsden, AL at the Gadsden Convention Hall (344 South First Street, Gadsden, AL). The cost of admission is $5.00 for adults and kids under the age of 12 are free.

This is short notice, and on a busy weekend, but hopefully we can all support one of the few model railroad events in northern Alabama. I hope to see you there!

Regards,
Ray

PS: I am posting this as a service to fellow hobbyists. I am not, in any way, affiliated with the Coosa Valley Model Railroad Association.

Thanks for the explanation Rich. I wish Bachmann would increase their range of small switching locomotives ('could fill a 'niche' in the hobby). A good start would be a redesign of the Plymouth...making it actually look like the prototype - AND giving it the proper model name (WDT not MDT). The Plymouth could then join the ranks of other excellent running Bachmann switchers as the GE 45-Ton and the GE 44-Ton. After the Plymouth how about offering that neat Whitcomb in HO?

Again, thanks Rich...'always enjoy your posts,
Ray

A often overlooked resource (for just about anything) is YouTube. There are informational videos on just about any facet of model railroading. Do keep in mind that the viewer needs to be aware...some of the videos are poorly done - whilst others are superb. I seem to remember a Bachmann video that details how to properly lubricate Bachmann locomotives.

Regards,
Ray

OK Rich, reading into your last post I have deduced that you installed wheel pick ups on that Bachmann Plymouth MDT/WDT? That seems to make sense. 'Not sure I want to put the expense (or effort) into such an inexpensive model.

Ray

This is to Rich - I read, in a previous post, that you put a decoder in the Bachmann Plymouth WDT switcher (which is incorrectly labeled "MDT")...how did you solve the poor power pick up of this model? As it comes from the factory, the Plymouth uses wheel>axle>frame method of transferring electrical power from the rail to the motor. In the best of circumstances, this is hit and miss (one of the reasons my beloved Plymouth sits on a shelf and I exclusively use my Bachmann GE 45-Ton). As you have mentioned, DCC is very 'picky' when it comes to power; I would think the Plymouth would be a 'bear' to keep running...heck, I had troubles on DC. Inquiring minds would like to know.

As an aside, this would be an excellent candidate (the Plymouth WDT) for a major upgrade. I can only hope Bachmann will consider this in the future...and I wouldn't mind an HO version of the On30 Whitcomb.

Regards,
Ray