It sounds like there is an issue with your power supply. It may be overheating or just going bad    .

-Brian

Also, you need to run the loco at a pretty fast speed to get the voltage up and get the smoke going.
Maybe just stick a shredded cotton ball in the smoke stack! 

-Brian

The egg!

or was it the chicken?

-Brian   

Did you try calling the service dept. (tab on the left) for a replacement part?
I prefer a plastic welding glue  (Ambroid ProWeld, Plactruct PlasticWeld, Tenax, etc.) for a strong bond.

-Brian

You can if you have a big enough power supply. The power supply provided with starter sets is pretty anemic. Its get overloaded pretty easy. You might be able to do it if both locos are only pulling a couple of cars, going slow and with the smoke off.

-Brian

If it is a yellow or amber LED, it will only be rated for 2 volts, typically. Don't ask me how I know that   

-Brian

That's pretty funny Kevin! Those electrons can go odd places. Sounds like a problem for the UMD Physics dept. 

Gobble, gobble,
Brian

Its an easy fix! 
Call the Service Dept. (phone number found in the Service Department tab on the left) during the work day. The front of the loco is called the "smoke box". Tell them the part you need and you can order a replacement (probably a whole smoke box front which pulls off with a little gentle persuasion).

-Brian

Hi Frank,

The Revo comes either as PnP to plug directly into an existing socket or you can get an accessory board with screw terminals for locos without a socket so you can directly attach all the appropriate wires. There was a thread on mylargescale about this with links to K27 wiring diagrams - http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/23/aft/112972/afv/topic/Default.aspx
Kevin wound up ripping out the socket board and directly attaching the wires which are all there.
Also look into the extra capacitor board (6 caps, I think) for running on track power. Hope that helps.

-Brian

Which TE is that? The old 27mHz model with the remote to control track power? That would work fine just be sure to use the Linear power setting and not PWM. I use one of these in a boxcar with batteries for RC/battery power.
Kevin Strong recently installed the new Revo TE in his K (see posting below) and had issues with the light when trying to use the plug-n-play socket. He removed the socket and direct wired it. Issue resolved. The Revo works with track or batter power.
Bachmann has no RC but does have DCC systems.

-Brian

Thanks guys!

I got the chance to run the forney this afternoon at Peter Drymalski's most excellent Rock Creek Railroad.  Peter's layout is a long dogbone that make a big U around his backyard. It is all on dry stack stone raised beds from 2 to 3 feet tall. The towns at each end feature many of Peter's scratch and bashed structures. The track is Aristo and H&R stainless with a 27mHz TE for power. I brought the Forney and small consist over to run. It ran pretty well on sharper curves only getting hung up on an occasional switch frog.

Some pics -

 

 

 

 


-Brian

I'm not a big fan of CA gels (or the Loctite brand in general). They tend to make a mess and get on your fingers when you squeeze out the excess.  I prefer the better brand CAs you can get in hobby shops (like Jet or Hobby Lobby brands). You can find them in a range of viscosities. I usually keep a thin and medium on hand.

-Brian

I'm guessing this is one of the shorty 20' "1:20" cars?
Regular CA (cyanoacrylate, super glue) works well or a MEK based solvent like Ambroid ProWeld or Plastruct Bondene / PlasticWeld can do the job.

-Brian

Quote from: Casey_Jones on November 03, 2009, 07:13:13 PM
Kevin, have you tried www.mylargescale.com for some input?   

Kevin is one of the moderators over at MLS. 

-Brian

I would shop around and see if you can find them in bulk. I think you can get them in a box of 100 and you'll need two!

-Brian