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October 24, 2021, 02:07:36 AM
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1  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Spectrum DCC ready 4-8-2 wiring diagram on: October 06, 2021, 08:02:26 AM
Jim,

Wiring diagrams don't exist for any model locos. Never seen one anyway.

On the PCB, you should see some sort of tab marked "PU+" or "PU-". It's been a while, so I can't be positive.

On the Mountains, the truck pick up wires are usually attached to the truck's post screw, by a small 'eye' connector.  The current is passed from the wheel brushes, to the screw, to the "red" or "black" wire, finally to the PCB.

On the Mountain tender trucks:  on truck picks up current from the right (+); the other truck picks up from the left (-).

Wish I could be more helpful.

Regards,

Jonathan
2  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Ken's Railroad on: September 29, 2021, 10:57:24 AM
It would be loads of fun, painting and decorating that brassie!

Regards,

Jonathan
3  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: 611 motor issue on: September 27, 2021, 02:01:29 PM
Ty,

The symptom you describe is not a motor issue.  It's an electrical contact issue.  If the loco will run when you lightly press down on the loco as you say...

First, check for cleanliness of the wheels and the track.  If those are clean...

Check the pick up brushes touching the drive wheels.  There may be a bit of fuzz or dirt preventing the pick up brushes from making good contact with the wheels.  Check the tender brushes and wheels as well. If those are good...

Make sure the connector wires between the loco and tender plugged in securely.  If that is good...

There is a plate, under the frame, that secures the driver wheels.  If you are brave, you can remove that plate, SLOWLY and gently. There will probably be contact brushes that connect the pick up brushes to the wires that eventually lead to the tender and motor. Make sure those brushes are clean and making good contact.

Does the headlight come on when the loco is not moving?  Does it flicker?

Typically, with a sound value/DCC type locomotive, better current flow is required, compared to a DC locomotive.  Good electrical contact is essential for smooth running.  Just sayin'

Regards,

Jonathan
4  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: 3 Stall Roundhouse on: September 15, 2021, 02:09:20 PM
OK. With your set, I believe you have EZ track.  I don't believe EZ track has a 3-way turnout.  If it were me, I'd go with a PECO 3-way turnout.  They are code 100, like your track.  You will have to add some roadbed under the turnout to line up with the EZ track.

PECO has two 3-way turnouts:  one has 24" radius divergent rails; the other has 36" radius divergent rails. Larger radius is always better for your trains, but it depends on how much space you have available.

Anyway, others may have better suggestions, but that would be my choice.

Really, my choice would be to go with a turntable afterall. Cost difference is not substantial.  And Bachmann has a DCC ready turntable that would match your set.  Just sayin'.

Regards,

Jonathan
5  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: 3 Stall Roundhouse on: September 15, 2021, 10:15:29 AM
Dave,

Welcome.

The most efficient way might be to use a 3-way turnout.  One turnout that will allow you to switch from either of the 3 tracks. That being said:

It is well worth it research and purchase one of the higher quality turnouts (more expensive).  You will want a very good quality turnout, since this will be your only means of selecting the locomotive to be run out of the roundhouse.

It is relatively easy to electrically isolate each stall so you can switch to each stall, if you get my meaning.

Also, you will have to select the the correct code of track, meaning code 100, code 83, and so on.  It has to do with the height of the rails.  Code 100 is pretty standard. Some folks choose code 83 track because it is more realistic looking.  Though, is you have vintage  Smiley equipment, it might not like to run on code 83.

Regards,

Jonathan
6  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Driver diameters for 2-10-0 on: September 14, 2021, 06:29:54 AM
I take it back.

I think Greenway is done. No products on their shelves that I can find. Sorry. jv
7  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Driver diameters for 2-10-0 on: September 14, 2021, 06:11:21 AM
http://www.greenwayproducts.com/brass-builders-corner-trackside-specialties/ts-725-smoke-front-double-hinged-front/

Greenway Products is where I used to go for brassie parts. Dunno if they are still in business, but the website is still active.

You'll need some kind of calipers to measure your drivers. Not enough info to guess on your wheel size.

Regards,

Jonathan
8  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: removing shell from 2-6-6-2 on: September 09, 2021, 08:31:58 PM
P&W,

The trick is thsteam dome. Lift off the dome... I was able to slip a fingernail under the lip and gently manipulate the dome off. There is a screw under the dome. Losses that screw and the shell will come off.

Canít remember how to loosen the cab, but I do  recall that it wasnít difficult.

https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,34005.0.html

Regards,

Jonathan
9  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: In search of tender trucks on: September 02, 2021, 06:15:40 AM
Rob,

I just happen to have a pair of these:

DSC_0619 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

DSC_0618 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

You can see on one of the trucks, I cut off the nibs for some forgotten reason.  But they roll OK.

If this is what you are looking for, I would be willing to mail them to you for the cost of postage.  I have no use for them.  Contact me through the personal message tab on this forum.  If not what you're after, no worries.

Regards,

Jonathan
10  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: USRA Lt 2-8-2 help on: August 23, 2021, 10:04:10 PM
Most likely possibility:

The previous owner changed the dual mode option thru programming.

You will need someone with a DCC system to check the loco to know for certain.

Regards,

Jonathan
11  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: DCC conversion questions, American Standard 4-4-0 on: July 29, 2021, 01:45:39 PM
The short answer is, Yes.  That little black wire is important.  It depends upon how you wired the decoder.

Here are a couple photos of my old 4-4-0:

DSC_0615_01 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

DSC_0614_01 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

First, It is very easy to get the trucks and/or wheels turned around backwards, on the tender... the easiest point of failure (ask me how I know).

Notice how the wheels are configured, that the front truck picks up from the left rail, and the rear truck picks up from the right rail...

Another problem:  that IS NOT enough electrical pick up, usually, to get enough consistent current to the decoder.

If you click on that pacificcoastliner link you were given, you may notice that extra pick up was taken from the locomotive, by adding some wheel brushes to the drivers.  If you want any kind of consistent running with that little loco, it's pretty critical to add that step.  Yes.  It's a bit of a pain to do.  Sorry.  

My loco in the photos is still DC.  I haven't attempted to add DCC to this one.  I use the bigger locos, which are much easier to deal with.

Just sayin'.

Regards,

Jonathan
12  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Sheldon's Layout on: July 28, 2021, 05:35:54 AM
Sheldon,

Great layout pics. Making progress.  Thanks for letting us see.  Always appreciated.

Sorry about your dog.  Lost mine (old age) a couple years back. We do get attached.

Regards,

Jonathan
13  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Sound no longer working on bachmann Santa Fe DCC locomotive on: July 15, 2021, 12:50:00 PM
Martha,

Thanks for the kind words.

What kind of DCC system do you have?  There could be an issue with how much current is getting to the tracks.  Some systems, like Digitrax, have a switch between N and HO scale.  The N scale setting sends less current to the track. Some HO locos will respond in N setting--some will not.

If you have a speaker issue, usually there still would be some kind of crackling noise from a broken speaker.  A loose wire would be fairly obvious.  Just spitballing here.

Regards,

Jonathan
14  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Sound no longer working on bachmann Santa Fe DCC locomotive on: July 14, 2021, 09:16:03 PM
Itís been my experience in DCC that the sound requires more current than the motor. So, if not enough power to the track, loco will move but sound wonít work or is sporatic. Couldnít hurt to make sure track/wheels are clean and the power unit is well connected to the track.

My two cents.

Regards,

Jonathan
15  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: EM-1 Wiring Harness Replacement on: July 12, 2021, 08:06:52 PM
https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,18857.0.html

Reading,

Since they didn't have a harness for the EM-1, I suspect you were sent the harness for the Consolidation.  They are very similar, if not identical.

Wiring diagrams for model locomotives pretty much do not exist.  Your only choice is to open the locomotive and the tender, and visually trace the wiring.  The boards are marked at the point where the wires are soldered.  I know it's hard. Something we have to live with... and enjoy.  Smiley

The link above is my thread on tinkering with the EM-1.  You may find something helpful.  Good luck!

Regards,

Jonathan
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