Please read the Forum Code of Conduct   >>Click Here <<

Main Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - 671

Williams by Bachmann / Re: Williams reverse board
January 06, 2020, 05:52:17 PM
Hi Winnipeg O gauge guy,

                     671 here.

I will say yes; the new and older reverser boards will work. They both have the ability to control one or two "CAN" motors. The CAN motors are D/C current powered. The board has built into the circuitry rectifiers and relays.
The board  will rectify the A/C current to an usable synthetic D/C current that the CAN motors will accept as D/C current.

Trainland has that unit with lockout switch for $59.99.

I would strongly suggest that you look into wiring the motors in series rather than in a parallel format. In series the GG1 will travel at a slower more constant speed than if you wire the motors in parallel. The loco will not be affected as much by dirty track and other things that will cause voltage deviation.

You can check posts on this site or google on how to series wire Williams locomotives. There are some very knowledgeable guys and gals on this site that can help you with that simple wiring adaptation. I think you will be amazed at the better performance of your loco.          Glad to help...

                                          Keep 'em smok'n
Williams by Bachmann / Re: Help with F-7 Diesel Loco
December 27, 2019, 05:00:11 PM
Hi man631,
           671 here. 

This sounds like your power source, the transformer may be of a very low capacity ( 40-80-watts ).  This may be the problem. The transformer may be tripping on its' safety overload device.
The motors, the lights within the cars and any other 'load' that goes through the transformer adds to the strain upon the transformer.
Shutting off the transformer is a technique to reset the tripped circuit.

Try turning off all of the loads on that transformer, place just the one loco onto the track and see if it runs. If it does, the  low powered transformer is the problem.  Time to buy a more powerful transformer.

                                                Hope this helps...671
Hi Len,

       671 here. More info for you...

The inrush current limiter CL 150 is rated at a constant 4.7 amps.  An online site, Newark, has them for less than a dollar each.

This would be a choice that I would try.

                                             Hope this helps...671

      671 here again. This is one other tip will make your dual motor locos perform better for you.

      Wire the motors in series. They come from the factory wired in parallel. Parallel causes them to be very sensitive to voltage variations. I have done this to many of my dual motor units. They perform so much better at slower speeds. They go up inclines better and the sound card activates more consistently, due to the higher track voltage.

      There are posts on this site that give instruction as to how to change the wiring. Take a look at them. The wiring change is easy.

                                            Keep Them Smokin'...671
Merry Christmas Len,

        671 here. Reading your posts indicates two challenges that you are facing.

1.   Driven gear replacement for your GP 9's. I would suggest that you take a gear that is in like new condition to a Machine Shop. They should be able to duplicate that gear in what ever metal that they suggest. ( Silicone bronze? ) Have them make several. Probably the more the cheaper each will cost.

2    Driven gear wear and failure. Sudden starts of you locos due to push button or timer start. The heavy "in rush" of current is putting strain into the drive train of the locos. This sudden inrush overloads the gearing causing failure.
     The answer to this challenge is an electrical devise called a Thermistor.  There are two basic types:

        A PTC Thermister and a NTC  Thermistor....You NEED a NTC thermistor

     How the NTC Thermister works. When wired in series with a load ( Motor Circuit ) in your case. When power is not applied to the circuit, the resister is cool, the resistance rating at this point is high (difficulty of current passing through the Thermistor). When power is applied (on), the Thermistor quickly heats up. The resistance through the resister becomes almost zero. At this point it allows current to flow energizing the motor circuit. Your result will be as if you were "Hand Throttling" the loco. The loco will receive a gradual inrush of current. This will happen all within one to two seconds. No strain will be suddenly applied to the gear set.
      Sometimes these resisters are called "In Rush" resisters.
      You will need to check with an electronic component supply house to get the correctly rated thermistor.  You need to stay within the parameters of your voltage,amperage, ohms.  The voltage will need to handle the transformer out put say something over 25-30 volts. Amperage is probably over a range of 5-10 amps. The ohms you will need to see what is available and make a selection from the supplier. Just remember... the Higher the ohms the greater the starting resistance to current flow, the longer it will take for the motor circuit to go to full power. You may want to purchase several different ratings to 'see' what works best for you.

                                           Hope this helps...671
Hi dwhite,

           Try an electrical contact cleaner on the selector switch. Make sure the cleaner is compatible with use on plastic. A few squirts of cleaner and movement of the switch, may cure the problem.

                                               Hope this helps...671
Williams by Bachmann / Re: Smoke unit
November 23, 2019, 02:00:44 PM
Hello again Jimjim09,             

                671 here...Did you ever replace your smoke unit? Did you use my method? If yes, how did it work out for you?
I hope all is well.

                                  Enjoy the Holidays...671


Williams by Bachmann / Re: Traction tires
October 13, 2019, 08:05:11 AM
Hi atharris,
       671 here. Traction tires are listed on the O Williams part site page. Go to the  "Universal " parts section. The third page lists a grouping package of two bulbs and four traction tires for diesels @ $8.80.

                                              Hope this helps...671
Hi mikemarx,

671 here. It will work.

You do need a center pick-up on one of the tender's trucks to power the unit. The complete electronics board and speaker come in a replacement kit. Check Trainland on line for price and availability.

I added this sound unit to a Blue Comet tender, much to my Grandson's pleasure. Simple install.

                                                         Good luck,
Williams by Bachmann / Re: Smoke unit
January 28, 2018, 11:39:33 AM
Hi Jimjim09,
          671 here. I have several posts on this for repair/replacement smoke units from a few years ago. Access them if you need more detail.
          Ok here goes my replacement procedure.

1.        Purchase from Trainland or elsewhere a LGB 5-6 volt smoke unit (Trainland #65853 5 volt @ $31.99 ) You will use this instead of the Williams unit.
2.        Two diodes needed to reduce voltage. Williams voltage regulator to smoker is 7.9 volts. Two diodes in series to the new smoke unit will reduce voltage to 6-6.5 volts.
3.        A small slide switch. This will be wired in series on a lead between the smoke unit and the voltage regulator. This will allow you to turn off the smoke unit when not in use.
4.        Solder and shrink tubing, hot glue etc. supplies

Follow these steps closely:
1.        Remove boiler shell from loco chassis. Unplug damaged smoker from voltage regulator board. Remove smoker unit from boiler stack.
2.        The new LGB smoker will NOT fit into the existing stack hole. The LGB unit is larger in diameter and capacity ( You will enjoy this larger size as to extended smoke run time. 15-20 minutes )
3.        Remove smoke stack adapter. It is what the original smoke unit was mounted in. Pull it out of the top of the boiler. It will not be needed for the new installation.
4.        Mount your new LGB smoke unit into this larger hole in the boiler top. You will notice that the hole is a little large for the new smoke unit. The smoke unit sits too low in relation to the boiler top. No problem! Take a small piece of shrink tube. You will use this as a shim. Raise the smoke unit from the boiler stack hole slightly, place the shrink tubing between the smoke unit and the boiler stack hole. Push the new smoke unit downward. Get it to a location that allows the exposed smoke stack to look correct. Cut off exposed shrink tube.
5.        Now for the wiring. The voltage regulator produces a dc current. You need to wire the diodes in the correct direction to allow current flow. Test before final assembly. Solder the two diodes together in series, test the direction of current flow. Diodes correct direction will allow flow, incorrect will not allow flow.
6.        Mount ( solder) two wires to the slide switch. Wires need to be long enough to go from the boiler cab to the smoker unit.
7.        Epoxy glue ( 5 minute type ) the slide switch into the boiler cab at a location your finger can activate it, yet not easily seen. Run the switch wires along inside of boiler shell. Hot glue in place.
8.        Complete wiring...Remember to solder and shrink tube all connections
          Cut plug and wire leads from defective smoke unit. Wire one lead from cab smoke switch to one lead from the plug. Attach the other smoke switch lead to one lead on the new smoke unit.
          Now comes the most important part of this build. You must make sure that the pair of diodes are properly polarized ( correct dc current flow ) The diodes ( installed between reduced 7-7.9 volt board power board and smoker unit ) are needed to reduce voltage to the smoke unit. This reduction will allow long smoke unit life. My original installation on my 027 Hudson ( Same Boiler Shell used by Bachman for Hudson or Berkshire loco ) is still smoking like the loco is on fire for 6 plus years now. If you mount them in the wrong current flow direction, no power will go to the new smoke unit. Diodes are a one way electrical gate. Keep this in mind.
9.        Assemble loco, Use LGB smoke fluid or similar. Williams smoke fluid works but it "Spits" alot.

          I have posts for this and a way to make your steamer run smoother and better using 6 amp bridge rectifier and two diodes. Great slow speed and tons of smoke

                                    Hope this helps...Smoke'm if you got'em
General Discussion / Re: Smoke Unit
December 26, 2016, 08:55:31 AM
Merry Christmas Nightwing,
            671 here. I run WbyB O Guage Steam locos. Here is what I have done to prolong their smoke units life and performance.

1.   I installed an On/Off switch for the smoke unit. Very simple install. Just interrupt ( Cut ) one of the wires supplying power directly to the smoke unit. Splice two  wires to the now open leads ( one on each ). Run those wires to the loco's cab, install to a micro slide switch. Epoxy the switch to the inside of the cab. Voila! A kill switch for the smoker. Turn smoker off when not in use.

2.   More consistent smoke output. The need to lower supply track voltage to the electrical motor. This will allow you to run at a higher supply voltage ( track voltage ). Higher track voltage will supply the smoker unit power supply module with enough voltage to allow for it to produce it's maximum design output voltage ( approx. 7-8 volts ).
      To achieve this I installed rectifier diodes in series to both sides of the motor ( brush ) wires. Four on each side reduces motor supply voltage by close to three volts motor voltage. You can use a bridge rectifier and some single diodes to save space. Thus your loco at 10 volt track voltage runs at a speed of 7 volt original out of the box speed.
      More smoke lower speeds.

      I have done this with all of my locos. They smoke like they are on fire for approx. 15 minute on one fill. My oldest WbyB Steamer has been smoking for well over Five (5) years.
      I have a post from years ago detailing these actual modifications with many details. Look them up. You will be very pleased with the slow speed performance of the loco and smoke output.

                                            "Smokem if you Gottem"
            671 here. There are J Class Boiler fronts now currently available from the parts section of this Website. $10.50 each. WBB just listed them.
            Order it today.

Williams by Bachmann / Re: Williams sd45 headlights
April 01, 2016, 05:17:56 PM
671 Here,

           Go to the web site...TRAINAIDSA... They sell plug and play LED bulbs that directly fit and work AC or DC for Lionel trains. Remove your existing bulb and replace with their LED. Bright lighting is now yours.

                                       671..." Get a round of track for the boys." A quote from an old Lionel promotional flick.
Williams by Bachmann / Re: F3-A Diesel
March 23, 2016, 04:34:48 PM
671 Here,

           Use the "Search" box from the above choices. Type in "Series wiring mod" By Joe Satnik.

His post should come up. It is very detailed on the how to change the WBB Dual motor units from parallel to series wiring.
You will be very pleased with the outcome.

                                              671 ... WHOOOO! WHOOOO!
Williams by Bachmann / Re: F3-A Diesel
December 05, 2015, 12:59:51 PM
Hi bwalm,
            671 here.

            Yes they did make a B unit for that F3 A-A Baltimore set. I too purchased my A-A plus B unit from TRAINLAND about two years ago. Great sale price........ < $ 200.00 for all three units A-B-A.

            The horn challenge is probably that the loco is so efficient, that you are running it at a low track voltage. I.e. 6-8 volts or less. The Horn/Bell activation at the lower track voltage is marginal.

            One very simple remedy is to change the motor wiring, within the power unit, from a parallel wiring to a series wiring. This allows you to increase track voltage without creating an over-speed condition of the loco. ( More scale like speed and brighter lighting plus a more positive horn activation )

            Joe Satnik, on this website, has the detailed wiring change. Reach out to him for help.

            I have used this parallel to series set-up on all of my dual motored Williams locos with excellent results. The loco is no longer super sensitive to small throttle advancements, brighter lighting within the cab, and instant horn response. I am using post war ZW 275 watt transformer.

            Hi Joe, could you please help this fellow?

             Don't forget, when you run your Steamers..."Smokem if you Gottem!"

                                            Merry Christmas...671