Hi bobbyzx,

            Change the internal motor wiring from parallel to series. This will allow the engine to run at a more controlled lower speed for a given voltage. It will run slower at a higher track voltage setting. This will allow the horn/bell to sound at the higher voltage, yet allow the loco to run at a lower speed.

             I believe that Joe Satnik has a posting on this site for that wiring diagram.

                                                                671

Hi RkyGriz,

              671 here. I have tried several smoke fluids for the Bachmann/Seuthe style smoke uint. I find that the Bachmann fluid spits and pops during its' use. The top of the Loco gets fluid on it.

              LGB, Seuthe, Mega Steam fluids do not have the popping tendencies. These fuids do come at a high price and I find Mega Steam to be too strong a smell for the Train Room.

              Crest Smoke fluid ( Trainland $4.99...4 0z. yellow bottle ) Smokes as well as the above mentioned, long lasting, ( >15 minutes per fill ). I like to mix a few drops of Mega Steam into the 4 o.z. bottle for a mild aroma.

                             Give it a try...  :-) ... Happy Easter... 671

Hi stationmaster 12

                  I like the way you attached the crew members to the front electric motor. Great idea, first time that I have seen this done.
                  I will borrow this method on some of my locos. Is the black around the motor, paper or some other product?

                  Again nice install !

                                             Keep-em Smoken...671

Hi Boxcar12,

             671 here. Your description of the 'direction' of travel is a little vague.
1. It sounds like this is a F-3 or an Alco style dummy.
2. If you wired the dummy's motors to travel forward at start-up (Headlight/windshield=front) then the units will both start in that direction, thus pulling against eachother.
3. If you run the F style units Tail to trunk, then they will run in the same direction at start-up.
4. If you want  one unit to travel forward and the other backward at start-up, you will need to reverse the wire connections to the motors after the electronic E-unit. This will get one to travel in it's normal forward direction and the other to start in reverse direction during initial start-up.

                       Hope this is clear...671

Hi Narrowminded,

                 671 here.

The voltage drop across a resister is dependant upon the voltage and the current.

The voltage drop across the diode is always constant .6-.7 voltage drop.

So in conclusion if the loco is not pulling a load, the voltage drop across the resister is quite different than if it were pulling 20-30 cars up an incline.

The diode voltage reduction remains the same no matter how the voltage (throttle) changes or current (load).

The resister setup would 'pull' more power from the transformer than the diode setup for the same results.

Equal load and speed, diode reduction uses less current (watts) with a constant voltage reduction between input and output.

                                                          671

Hi chieffan,
         
           671 here. Joe Satnik's answer is the best way to reduce voltage ( Electrical pressure ) to your motor/motors.
           My scale is 'O'. I have several of the W by B Steam locos. The problem with these locos is that their motors require relatively low voltage to obtain scale like speed.
           Now the challenge is this...The smoke unit needs a track voltage of approximately 9 + volts in order for the smoke unit's voltage regulator to provide the design output voltage of 7.9 volts for the 8 volt Seuth Smoke unit. Where did that voltage difference go? It was lost to the electronics within the loco's electronics.
           Now, a diode helps in controlling the directional flow of the current. But diodes are slightly parasitic. What I mean is that they consume some of the voltage that is flowing through them. They 'steal' about .6 to .7 volts for each diode the current flows through.
           Using this very constant voltage drain, allows us to drop voltage to any circuit within our locos.
           I use the Dalllee bridge rectifier circuit along with two extra diodes. This drops my motor voltage by almost three volts. This allows me to increase track voltage by approx 3 volts to run at the same speed. The smoke circuit now receives almost three more volts. My smoke units smoke like they are on fire, yet my loco runs at a closer to scale speed.
           Thank you, Joe Satnik for the slower speed and tons of smoke.

                              Smok'em if you got'em...671

wmwalker,

            You are quite welcome.

            I hope WestCelt gets his GP7 up and running.


                                            ...671

Hi WestCelt,

        671 here. Your challenge seems to be one of two reasons that the wheel does not stay onto the axle.

1.     The bore hole within the wheel hub is oversized.
2.     The axle shaft was not knurled.

      The wheel stays onto the axle by friction originally. The bore is slightly smaller than the shaft end.
      I would try to replicate this friction using one of two methods.

      Top of my list would be to use either strands of steel from a steel wool pad or strands of fine copper from multi-strand thin gauge wire.

      I would place as many strands as needed through the hole in the wheel. Leave excess strands outside the rear of the wheel. One dot of supperglue to hold their position. Press the wheel onto the axle using my bench vise with paint stirring sticks as a protector between vise jaw and wheel set. Press to correct width, then take a sheetrock knife and cut the excess wire off from behind the wheel. Job complete!

       Second choice would be to squeeze the end of the axle in my bench vise to oblongate it's shape. This would make up for the loose fit.

       If I needed to do this type of repair, I would use the wire style repair. I feel it would have the much sort after results.


                                      Good luck!...671

Hi WestCelt,

              The Lionel transformer only sends the whistle overlay D.C. pulse in one direction. If the bell is able to ring and you want the whistle to blow, this what is needed to be done.

              Switch the two feed wires at the transformer posts. This will change the D.C. pulse's direction. This will now allow the whistle to blow when the whistle lever is engaged.

              If you want to be able to blow the whistle or ring the bell without switching wire location all the time, you will need to either DYI whistle bell switch, or purchase a ready made one. Lionel makes one for their newer trains when used with a conventional transformer.

              I believe a web site J&C Studios has a Whistle-Bell switch on their site.

                                            Good luck...671

Hi WestCelt,

            671 here. I am assuming that the wheel does not slide easily onto the axle.
Here is my suggestion:
1.  Remove truck assembly from chassis. From my memory this would be the steps needed.
             A.  Remove plastic body shell by removing 4-6 screws holding body to chassis
             B.  Remove electric motor from the truck assembly that needs the wheel. A single Philips head screw from the underside of the truck will release the motor.
             C.  At this point the truck should be free of the chassis unless a wire is attached to it. I.e center roller pickup.
              D.  Once you have freed the truck from the chassis you can now remove the side skirting ( brakes etc ) with the removal of the screw that holds this decorative piece to the truck ( Both sides )
              E.  Take the truck and the missing wheel to your bench vise. You will use the vise to press on the wheel to the axle. Shield with wood ( paint mixing sticks work well ) to prevent the vise from damaging the wheel set. Slowly press the wheel onto the axle keep taking measurements of the decreasing width between the wheel flanges. Once that width is the same as the other wheel width, you are done!
              F    Reassemble, lubricate and grease the gears.

I have used this method to correct wheels that were not pressed to the correct width. It is easy and does a perfect job. Let us know how you make out.

                                                 671

Hi cmaffet,

              Have you checked the center roller electrical pick-up? I have found that if you use the wrong oil, they build up a carbon deposit very quickly. The center roller becomes resistant to rolling or locks in one position. This added drag increases the rolling resistance of the car. I have also noticed that the springs on some of the center roller pick-ups are quite stiff. This stiffness makes a great amount of the cars weight roll on the roller itself. This does not allow the truck's wheels to support most of the weight. The rollers should just be an electrical contact, not a center "wheel" for the cars truck system.

              Conductive or synthetic lubricant is a must for the pick-up rollers. Check the spring tension/load. That may be the cause. If the trucks wheels roll freely, it could be the rollers creating the excess drag.

                                                                671

Hi WKT58,

            You can buy a new motor for your Loco from this website. Just go to the parts section under semi-scale Hudsons. The motor is available from that listing.

            I have a semi-scale 2056 Hudson. I believe it to be 3 years old now. It is a great runner. Smooth running, well balanced weight distribution onto the drive wheels, well behaved on turnouts and X crossings.
            I replaced the original smoke unit with the larger LGB #5 smoke unit by removing the stack adapter from the boiler. I wired in series (2) small rectifier diodes. This lowered the maximum voltage from the constant voltage board from 7.9 volts down to a maximum of 6.5 volts. I also wired an on off switch for the smoke unit. I have this setup for 3 years now. It smokes like it is on fire. I use Crest smoke fluid ( Trainland $4.99 4oz bottle ) it smokes for 15-20 minutes.
             The semi-scale Berkshire uses the same boiler shell. I have one in the Great Northern color scheme. I find it not to be as good as the Semi-Hudson. The balance point is different in relation to the drivers.
              All of my WbyB locos are very good, the semi-scale Hudson is my favorite.

                                           671

Hi Seaboard,

                  671 here. I just completed 'Series' wiring of my new WbyB GP 30.

                  Here are my observations & Results...

           1.    This can/will void your warranty.

           2.    On the positive side of this alteration, smoother operation, sensitivity to throttle movement is dampened. Prime Mover Rev up and Rev down is more protypical in relationship to speed and throttle setting. Lighting in passenger cars and caboose is brighter. I am running at a 10 volt to 11 volt power setting. This gives me a very constant scale speed. I dislike the 'Race track' speed.

           3.    I found this alteration to be  positive. I will keep my GP 30 in a series wired mode, even with the threat of voiding it's warranty due to my actions. 

                                                                           NYC GP 30.....671

Hi tstrekfus,

               Read the post "Scale Hudson". You will find a description of how to install a smoke cut off switch.

               I have done this to all of my WbyB Steamers. Easy install, works flawlessly, extends life of smoker.

                                                          "Smok'em if You Got'em"...671

Hi Seaboard,

                 I have the 2013 catalogue. Page 15 describes the size of the GP 30 as:

       Length 14"
       Height    4"

                 I just measured my WbyB New York Central GP30...Here are the actual measurements:

       Length  14 1/2"coupler to coupler outside of knuckle
       Height     3 7/8"   Rail top to highest point on Loco ( Fans & Exhaust )

    P.S.  I am considering a shutoff switch for the  Prime Mover sound.

            The Loco's sound does not Rev-up at voltage settings < 10 volts. The Loco travels plenty fast at 9 volts with only an 'Idle RPM sound'. I am considering a "Series Wiring" of the two motors. This will increase the track voltage setting, which should activate the Prime Mover into a Rev-Up mode.
            I will post my 'Test' results on this modification when completed.

                                                            671