ONLINE
STORE
"ASK THE BACH MAN"
FORUM
PARTS, SERVICE,
& INFORMATION
CATALOGS AND
BROCHURES

Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
December 13, 2018, 04:45:09 PM
Home Help Search Login Register
News: Check out the photo gallery link above or >click here< to see photos of recently announced products!
  Show Posts
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Is it possible to install a Williams whistle/bell in a Lionel tender? on: August 16, 2018, 07:02:40 AM
Hi mikemarx,

671 here. It will work.

You do need a center pick-up on one of the tender's trucks to power the unit. The complete electronics board and speaker come in a replacement kit. Check Trainland on line for price and availability.

I added this sound unit to a Blue Comet tender, much to my Grandson's pleasure. Simple install.

                                                         Good luck,
                                                              671
2  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Smoke unit on: January 28, 2018, 12:39:33 PM
Hi Jimjim09,
           671 here. I have several posts on this for repair/replacement smoke units from a few years ago. Access them if you need more detail.
           Ok here goes my replacement procedure.

1.        Purchase from Trainland or elsewhere a LGB 5-6 volt smoke unit (Trainland #65853 5 volt @ $29.99 ) You will use this instead of the Williams unit.
2.        Two diodes needed to reduce voltage. Williams voltage regulator to smoker is 7.9 volts. Two diodes in series to the new smoke unit will reduce voltage to 6-6.5 volts.
3.        A small slide switch. This will be wired in series on a lead between the smoke unit and the voltage regulator. This will allow you to turn off the smoke unit when not in use.
4.        Solder and shrink tubing, hot glue etc. supplies

Follow these steps closely:
1.        Remove boiler shell from loco chassis. Unplug damaged smoker from voltage regulator board. Remove smoker unit from boiler stack.
2.        The new LGB smoker will NOT fit into the existing stack hole. The LGB unit is larger in diameter and capacity ( You will enjoy this larger size as to extended smoke run time. 15-20 minutes )
3.        Remove smoke stack adapter. It is what the original smoke unit was mounted in. Pull it out of the top of the boiler. It will not be needed for the new installation.
4.        Mount your new LGB smoke unit into this larger hole in the boiler top. You will notice that the hole is a little large for the new smoke unit. The smoke unit sits too low in relation to the boiler top. No problem! Take a small piece of shrink tube. You will use this as a shim. Raise the smoke unit from the boiler stack hole slightly, place the shrink tubing between the smoke unit and the boiler stack hole. Push the new smoke unit downward. Get it to a location that allows the exposed smoke stack to look correct. Cut off exposed shrink tube.
5.        Now for the wiring. The voltage regulator produces a dc current. You need to wire the diodes in the correct direction to allow current flow. Test before final assembly. Solder the two diodes together in series, test the direction of current flow. Diodes correct direction will allow flow, incorrect will not allow flow.
6.        Mount ( solder) two wires to the slide switch. Wires need to be long enough to go from the boiler cab to the smoker unit.
7.        Epoxy glue ( 5 minute type ) the slide switch into the boiler cab at a location your finger can activate it, yet not easily seen. Run the switch wires along inside of boiler shell. Hot glue in place.
8.        Complete wiring...Remember to solder and shrink tube all connections
           Cut plug and wire leads from defective smoke unit. Wire one lead from cab smoke switch to one lead from the plug. Attach the other smoke switch lead to one lead on the new smoke unit.
           Now comes the most important part of this build. You must make sure that the pair of diodes are properly polarized ( correct dc current flow ) The diodes are needed to reduce voltage to the smoke unit. This reduction will allow long smoke unit life. My original installation on my 027 Hudson ( Same Boiler Shell used by Bachman for Hudson or Berkshire loco ) is still smoking like the loco is on fire for 6 plus years now. If you mount them in the wrong current flow direction, no power will go to the new smoke unit. Diodes are a one way electrical gate. Keep this in mind.
9.        Assemble loco, Use LGB smoke fluid or similar. Williams smoke fluid works but it "Spits" alot.

          I have posts for this and a way to make your steamer run smoother and better using 6 amp bridge rectifier and two diodes. Great slow speed and tons of smoke

                                     Hope this helps...Smoke'm if you got'em
                                                           671
3  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: Smoke Unit on: December 26, 2016, 09:55:31 AM
Merry Christmas Nightwing,
            671 here. I run WbyB O Guage Steam locos. Here is what I have done to prolong their smoke units life and performance.

1.   I installed an On/Off switch for the smoke unit. Very simple install. Just interrupt ( Cut ) one of the wires supplying power directly to the smoke unit. Splice two  wires to the now open leads ( one on each ). Run those wires to the loco's cab, install to a micro slide switch. Epoxy the switch to the inside of the cab. Voila! A kill switch for the smoker. Turn smoker off when not in use.

2.   More consistent smoke output. The need to lower supply track voltage to the electrical motor. This will allow you to run at a higher supply voltage ( track voltage ). Higher track voltage will supply the smoker unit power supply module with enough voltage to allow for it to produce it's maximum design output voltage ( approx. 7-8 volts ).
      To achieve this I installed rectifier diodes in series to both sides of the motor ( brush ) wires. Four on each side reduces motor supply voltage by close to three volts motor voltage. You can use a bridge rectifier and some single diodes to save space. Thus your loco at 10 volt track voltage runs at a speed of 7 volt original out of the box speed.
      More smoke lower speeds.

      I have done this with all of my locos. They smoke like they are on fire for approx. 15 minute on one fill. My oldest WbyB Steamer has been smoking for well over Five (5) years.
      I have a post from years ago detailing these actual modifications with many details. Look them up. You will be very pleased with the slow speed performance of the loco and smoke output.

                                            "Smokem if you Gottem"
                                                        671
4  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Williams front boiler cover j class? on: May 01, 2016, 06:02:24 AM
JimJim09,
         
            671 here. There are J Class Boiler fronts now currently available from the parts section of this Website. $10.50 each. WBB just listed them.
            Order it today.

                                            671
5  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Williams sd45 headlights on: April 01, 2016, 05:17:56 PM
671 Here,

            Go to the web site...TRAINAIDSA... They sell plug and play LED bulbs that directly fit and work AC or DC for Lionel trains. Remove your existing bulb and replace with their LED. Bright lighting is now yours.

                                        671..." Get a round of track for the boys." A quote from an old Lionel promotional flick.
6  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: F3-A Diesel on: March 23, 2016, 04:34:48 PM
671 Here,

           Use the "Search" box from the above choices. Type in "Series wiring mod" By Joe Satnik.

His post should come up. It is very detailed on the how to change the WBB Dual motor units from parallel to series wiring.
You will be very pleased with the outcome.

                                              671 ... WHOOOO! WHOOOO!
7  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: F3-A Diesel on: December 05, 2015, 01:59:51 PM
Hi bwalm,
          
             671 here.

             Yes they did make a B unit for that F3 A-A Baltimore set. I too purchased my A-A plus B unit from TRAINLAND about two years ago. Great sale price........ < $ 200.00 for all three units A-B-A.

             The horn challenge is probably that the loco is so efficient, that you are running it at a low track voltage. I.e. 6-8 volts or less. The Horn/Bell activation at the lower track voltage is marginal.

             One very simple remedy is to change the motor wiring, within the power unit, from a parallel wiring to a series wiring. This allows you to increase track voltage without creating an over-speed condition of the loco. ( More scale like speed and brighter lighting plus a more positive horn activation )

             Joe Satnik, on this website, has the detailed wiring change. Reach out to him for help.

             I have used this parallel to series set-up on all of my dual motored Williams locos with excellent results. The loco is no longer super sensitive to small throttle advancements, brighter lighting within the cab, and instant horn response. I am using post war ZW 275 watt transformer.

             Hi Joe, could you please help this fellow?

              Don't forget, when you run your Steamers..."Smokem if you Gottem!"

                                             Merry Christmas...671
8  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Williams PRR Tuscan GG! #41794 on: September 06, 2015, 08:47:57 AM
Hi bobbyzx,

             Change the internal motor wiring from parallel to series. This will allow the engine to run at a more controlled lower speed for a given voltage. It will run slower at a higher track voltage setting. This will allow the horn/bell to sound at the higher voltage, yet allow the loco to run at a lower speed.

              I believe that Joe Satnik has a posting on this site for that wiring diagram.

                                                                 671
9  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Best smoke fluid? on: April 05, 2015, 11:16:53 AM
Hi RkyGriz,

               671 here. I have tried several smoke fluids for the Bachmann/Seuthe style smoke uint. I find that the Bachmann fluid spits and pops during its' use. The top of the Loco gets fluid on it.

               LGB, Seuthe, Mega Steam fluids do not have the popping tendencies. These fuids do come at a high price and I find Mega Steam to be too strong a smell for the Train Room.

               Crest Smoke fluid ( Trainland $4.99...4 0z. yellow bottle ) Smokes as well as the above mentioned, long lasting, ( >15 minutes per fill ). I like to mix a few drops of Mega Steam into the 4 o.z. bottle for a mild aroma.

                              Give it a try...  :-) ... Happy Easter... 671
10  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Seaboard NW2 Just Out of the Detail Shop on: October 21, 2014, 11:37:07 AM
Hi stationmaster 12

                  I like the way you attached the crew members to the front electric motor. Great idea, first time that I have seen this done.
                  I will borrow this method on some of my locos. Is the black around the motor, paper or some other product?

                  Again nice install !

                                             Keep-em Smoken...671
11  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: powering up a dummy unit on: June 09, 2014, 01:49:49 PM
Hi Boxcar12,

             671 here. Your description of the 'direction' of travel is a little vague.
1. It sounds like this is a F-3 or an Alco style dummy.
2. If you wired the dummy's motors to travel forward at start-up (Headlight/windshield=front) then the units will both start in that direction, thus pulling against eachother.
3. If you run the F style units Tail to trunk, then they will run in the same direction at start-up.
4. If you want  one unit to travel forward and the other backward at start-up, you will need to reverse the wire connections to the motors after the electronic E-unit. This will get one to travel in it's normal forward direction and the other to start in reverse direction during initial start-up.

                       Hope this is clear...671
12  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Reducing Engine Speed to Allow Smoke Unit to work on: May 31, 2014, 01:18:36 PM
Hi Narrowminded,

                 671 here.

The voltage drop across a resister is dependant upon the voltage and the current.

The voltage drop across the diode is always constant .6-.7 voltage drop.

So in conclusion if the loco is not pulling a load, the voltage drop across the resister is quite different than if it were pulling 20-30 cars up an incline.

The diode voltage reduction remains the same no matter how the voltage (throttle) changes or current (load).

The resister setup would 'pull' more power from the transformer than the diode setup for the same results.

Equal load and speed, diode reduction uses less current (watts) with a constant voltage reduction between input and output.

                                                          671
13  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Reducing Engine Speed to Allow Smoke Unit to work on: May 30, 2014, 02:07:06 PM
Hi chieffan,
          
            671 here. Joe Satnik's answer is the best way to reduce voltage ( Electrical pressure ) to your motor/motors.
            My scale is 'O'. I have several of the W by B Steam locos. The problem with these locos is that their motors require relatively low voltage to obtain scale like speed.
            Now the challenge is this...The smoke unit needs a track voltage of approximately 9 + volts in order for the smoke unit's voltage regulator to provide the design output voltage of 7.9 volts for the 8 volt Seuth Smoke unit. Where did that voltage difference go? It was lost to the electronics within the loco's electronics.
            Now, a diode helps in controlling the directional flow of the current. But diodes are slightly parasitic. What I mean is that they consume some of the voltage that is flowing through them. They 'steal' about .6 to .7 volts for each diode the current flows through.
            Using this very constant voltage drain, allows us to drop voltage to any circuit within our locos.
            I use the Dalllee bridge rectifier circuit along with two extra diodes. This drops my motor voltage by almost three volts. This allows me to increase track voltage by approx 3 volts to run at the same speed. The smoke circuit now receives almost three more volts. My smoke units smoke like they are on fire, yet my loco runs at a closer to scale speed.
            Thank you, Joe Satnik for the slower speed and tons of smoke.

                               Smok'em if you got'em...671
14  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: fixing a truck for a Millwaukee St. Louis on: March 21, 2014, 08:21:13 AM
wmwalker,

            You are quite welcome.

            I hope WestCelt gets his GP7 up and running.


                                            ...671
15  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: fixing a truck for a Millwaukee St. Louis on: March 20, 2014, 03:36:31 PM
Hi WestCelt,

         671 here. Your challenge seems to be one of two reasons that the wheel does not stay onto the axle.

1.     The bore hole within the wheel hub is oversized.
2.     The axle shaft was not knurled.

       The wheel stays onto the axle by friction originally. The bore is slightly smaller than the shaft end.
       I would try to replicate this friction using one of two methods.

       Top of my list would be to use either strands of steel from a steel wool pad or strands of fine copper from multi-strand thin gauge wire.

       I would place as many strands as needed through the hole in the wheel. Leave excess strands outside the rear of the wheel. One dot of supperglue to hold their position. Press the wheel onto the axle using my bench vise with paint stirring sticks as a protector between vise jaw and wheel set. Press to correct width, then take a sheetrock knife and cut the excess wire off from behind the wheel. Job complete!

        Second choice would be to squeeze the end of the axle in my bench vise to oblongate it's shape. This would make up for the loose fit.

        If I needed to do this type of repair, I would use the wire style repair. I feel it would have the much sort after results.


                                       Good luck!...671
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
Powered by SMF | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!