Climax model sound question

[Howard240]

Hi.  I am considering getting a Climax model and have questions about the sound options.
     1.  With the factory sound/dcc model, will the sound still work if the plug and play is used for radio control battery power (Crest) and is there room for the Crest battery pack in the tender?
     2.  I assume the regular model just has the chuff sound installed.  Does the plug and play give any sound options or just use the receiver sound (again Crest) or the sound of an added sound card?

Thank you for any help and Happy New Year.

[Bucksco]

The sound on the Large Scale Climax is part of the DCC/Sound decoder. If the DCC/Sound decoder is removed there is no sound. If you use an R/C set up you will need to install a separate sound card.

[Howard240]

Thank you Yardmaster.  I've ordered one without the DCC sound but with the Non proprietary Plug 'n' Play.  Am I understanding then that I can  plug my Crest Revolution receiver into the Plug and play and then I will have the generic Crest sound (including chuff) unless I add another sound card?  Is this as easy as it sounds?

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Hi Howard,

If you buy a Crest Revolution Receiver with the Generic steam sound it should plug right into the socket with no problem. You will get chuff as well.  The sound is very generic and is more suitable for a standard rod locomotive as opposed to the correct sound for a climax.  No matter the generic sound is very low cost and in my opinion better than no sound at all.  If at some point you want to add a high end sound system you should have no problem doing so.

Have fun and a Happy New Year.

Loco Bill

[Kevin Strong]

With the Revolution plugged into the Bachmann board, you may not get all the lights to work. The Revolution does not pass the power from the input pins to the J1-6 and J1-7 pins on the socket, which is where most Bachmann locos I've worked with draw power for the headlights, firebox, etc. You may have to solder jumper wires. Bachmann is usually pretty good about having solder pads on the PC board to facilitate this. I believe this power has to go forward for the chuff triggers to work as well, but don't quote me.

Try it first. If you get all the lights you need, then you're in good shape. If you don't have any lights, you'll probably have to go to plan B.

Later,

K

[Howard240]

Thank you both for your input on this.  I'll post a follow up when I get things installed.

I agree about the generic sound but will use it until I can get something else.  I have one already and don't want all my locos to sound the same.

A last question for now - the only Climax I've ridden is the Durbin Rocket about 2 years ago.  I'm trying to remember how the sound was different.  I think it had a higher pitch and more chuffs per revolution...?

Any advice on a good sound card would be welcome. 

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Howard,

Phoenix makes Climax specific sounds here is the link:

http://www.phoenixsound.com/library/am_steam/climax.htm

Bill

[Howard240]

I am a bit surprised at how much space in the bunker is used for the plug'n'play unit.  I don't see an obvious place for a battery.  Is there something provided in that regard and if so is there a battery you could recommend for it?  Thanks.

[Howard240]

I seem to keep having questions about the Climax   

I still am unsure how an onboard battery can be installed. 
     --Can I assume a 14.8volt will work?  One might be able to be secured in the coal-load or the oil top of the bunker. 
         If that's the best place:
     --What is the purpose of the four projections?  And can they be removed to make space for the battery?
     --If by using battery power I am losing the advantages of the plug'n'play board is there any reason I should have it?
        I imagine that without it I could set up the Crest receiver as I did in my Annie per instructions in Garden Rail mag.
         Or is that simply a crazy idea?  Removing the plug'n'play looks like a daunting task, so:
     --Lastly, is there an earlier model Climax that didn't have the plug'n'play?
Thank you for answers to any of the questions.

[Kevin Strong]

First off, if you're going to commit to battery power, you can get rid of the board with the slide switches on it. There are solder terminals along the edge of the horizontal PC board which line up to the vertical one with the switches. Separate the boards, throw the switches as you would want them set, then use an ohmmeter to figure out which solder terminals you'll need to jumper with wires. This sounds a lot harder than it its, but it frees up a bunch of space.

Next, I can't remember if the non-DCC Climax comes with a speaker installed or not. Whether it does or doesn't, I'd look for a low-profile speaker (sometimes called a "wafer" speaker or "flat" speaker) that will fit the space. You can then put the battery in the space between the speaker and the bottom of the PC board. You can probably get away with an 11.1 volt battery, as the Climax needn't run very fast. The Revolution should work well at that voltage. At one point I think they said it needs a minimum of 12 volts, but I think it's been shown the work well below that. If not, you may be able to squeeze a 14.8 volt pack in there. (I stuffed mine in the boiler, but (a) it's a scratchbuilt boiler, and (b) while I'm pretty sure the battery will fit in the stock boiler, disassembling that half of the loco is not for the feint of heart.

Later,

K