Related to prior thread and Re: Ten Wheeler shell removal

[MarkInLA]

Am I correct that to remove the shell on the Ten Wheeler there are 3 screws; 2 under cab and  large one above pilot wheels into smoke box ? As i've described a problem of late with this engine I would like to get a look at the motor and things..Maybe lube shaft.

[richg]

Yes.




Inside.





Rich

[MarkInLA]

Thanks loads for the pictures Rich !! This looks like a sinch now...While inside, is it possible to do something to get a brighter headlight going ? Odd how a Spectum has such a poor light and a regular line Bach Mogul has one of the greatest !! Anyway, loco is still 'rowing' in reverse ( not forward !?). Maybe running without shell will reveal something.. Mark

[richg]

The rods can be an issue. Look them over carefully.
The LED resistors on the OC board have a value over 2k which allows a lot less that 20 ma for the LED.
Looking at the boiler, you can see the light pipe going up to the headlight.
I would unsolder one LED wire and put a multimeter on the MA scale in series with the LED and wire. Check what you get for current. A 1k resistor will allow about 9 ma. A 680 ohm resistor would be a better choice and allow about 13 ma and a brighter LED.
Experiment is what I do.

My 4-6-0 has two 4.7 k in parallel with each other and those two are in series with a 220 ohm resistor and a diode. That is a total of about 2,500 ohms. I just looked at the PC board from my loco. Not 1k as used with many 20 ma LED's.
Your PC board layout might be different as Bachmann is consistent at being inconsistent.
My loco was DCC ready.
Putting the boiler back on is going to be the biggest challange.

Rich

[MarkInLA]

Rich, thanks tons for all the tedious work responding to me...Oddly enough though, I removed the screws you show in pics..But I absolutely could not get shell to budge ! I even took out the 2 screws under the cab sides and still couldn't get it off.  I too, tried yanking the smoke box as I think you said that comes out first. But got only slight jiggling here. Also, it looks like the hand-grabs running up cab corner need to be freed, as a little jiggling movement in cab did seem to show these as concerned with shell removal, too..Anyway, get this: I managed to break off a stirrup (steps) on right  front corner of the tender. And, trying to get screws back into cab bottom I broke off what looks like the brake tension adjuster (perhaps where a turnbuckle would be for tightening brake linkage). It's one those tiny delrin parts which the brake cylinder crosswise rod goes through and seems to be molded to the gearbox cover (as the good one seems to be)..  Finally, I just learned that the eccentic crank is to be several degrees forward of counter balance when rolling forward..So, perhaps the one on mine which is top dead center to balance is the wrong one, not the one which is off center as I'd believed...Now I will try and set it forward of balance..ALSO, the radius rod (highest up valve gear part) is not horizontal on (is it?) the right side as is on the other side! I did get it straighter with a hemostat, but not perfect...
So, all this said, i'm thinking of sending her back to the 'shops' for repair or replacement. It's still under warrantee so I suppose I'm looking at about  $15.00 shipping..What do you think ? What would you do at this point ?
Once again, thanks so much for the help...Mark

[richg]

OK, just remembered, the boiler and frame are a tight fit. Notice the gear box enclosure. Fits inside the boiler very snugly. I had to CAREFULLY, pry the two apart.
I don't like yelling in forums but want you to try to understand it can be a tight fit.
All the pipes will make it a real challenge to put the two back together. No idea on your level of mechanical experience.
I suspect your issue is the rods and not the loco needing lub.

I have seen over the years that a fair amount of issues, at least for steamers, were drivers or rods and not lack of lub.
Many try to use lub when there is a mechanical issue with locos and sometimes rolling stock.
In all my years, I have never had to lub side rods or rolling stock wheels.
I just had to fine tune the trucks and maybe buy all metal correct size wheel sets. Fine tuning usually did it.
I would suggest thinking about changing the resistance on the PC board for a brighter LED but I also know, the tender parts are real delicate.
I would suggest returning it but any damage might be an issue.

Rich

[MarkInLA]

Rich, I don't think you're "yelling" (flaming ?) at all !...I do agree that it's probably useless to think lubing will correct these problems..But first:
I wrongly described the 'bent/slanted' part as being the correctly slanted Radius Rod. The radius rod is slanted correctly..I should have cited the wrongly bent part on my Ten as being the very highest horizontal silvery part that the (vertical) combination lever is hanging from, hinged onto by a piece which is sort of shaped like a smaller crosshead..This is what is bent on one side of loco and perfectly level on other side...I did manage though to straighten it somewhat, as I'd stated above, with a hemostat..And loco is running a bit better..But I think I now see the main problem which IS drivers out of quarter..But I'm squeemish about tackling this job as I don't know if all the side rod, piston rods/valves will need to come off first (pull out pins ).Or, can/do they remain with the drivers whilst twisting drivers on their axles into quarter ?..Also, what should I do about broken stirrup and the other broken tiny part I described which crosswise brake rod goes through ? Is it merely time to send her in ? Or should I order these two parts and continue to try quartering drivers myself ?
Thanks for hangin' in,
Mark
PS. If I don't respond sooner it's because I am at local library with limited computer time. I usually have to wait until next day..