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Author Topic: bachmann easy track  (Read 5742 times)
Hey_H

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« on: August 17, 2009, 12:16:41 PM »

been told the track could be removed from the plastic road bed if desired.  I have started my first permanent layout and opted (with a joint decision of my son) to do the layout from the ground up including roadbed and ballasting.
question:  Is there a way to safely break the glue bond that holds the track to the plastic bed.  I have already destroyed two sections of curve track trying to remove the track from the bed.
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WoundedBear
A Derailed Drag Racer


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« Reply #1 on: August 17, 2009, 12:21:53 PM »

I don't think EZ Track is designed to be removed from the roadbed. I recall the Bach-Man stating that the track is "sonic-welded" to the roadbed.

Sid
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simkon
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« Reply #2 on: August 17, 2009, 12:26:27 PM »

I think you have ez track confused for another type, because as far as I know you can't take it off the roadbed. You may be thinking of Kato Unitrack, which I think does come off.
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Hey_H

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« Reply #3 on: August 17, 2009, 12:28:40 PM »

I don't think EZ Track is designed to be removed from the roadbed. I recall the Bach-Man stating that the track is "sonic-welded" to the roadbed.

Sid
Appreciate the reply.  Won't give up that easy.   I was actually able to remove the track from 10 of the twelve sections I attempted before thinking to "ask" first.
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Santa Fe buff

N&W


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« Reply #4 on: August 17, 2009, 01:22:59 PM »

Also, there's Atlas' track... They boast enough about the feature of removable track.

Joshua
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- Joshua Bauer
simkon
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« Reply #5 on: August 17, 2009, 01:43:22 PM »

Also, there's Atlas' track... They boast enough about the feature of removable track.

from Atlas' website: Each piece of Snap-TrackŪ can be removed and used seperately if desired. So Atlas True-Track would work.
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renniks


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« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2009, 03:09:04 PM »

May be 'sonic' welded but only in spots, not continuously. Have separated every piece of track from an On30 train set. Hold the piece in both hands by the ends and twist in opposite directions to and fro a couple of times. This will break the end welds and sometimes the intermediate ones. Lift one end of track away from base and run a narrow blade screwdriver along under tie strip under each rail to break any remaining welds. After a few you get the 'knack'.

Eric UK
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Hey_H

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« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2009, 04:26:11 PM »

May be 'sonic' welded but only in spots, not continuously. Have separated every piece of track from an On30 train set. Hold the piece in both hands by the ends and twist in opposite directions to and fro a couple of times. This will break the end welds and sometimes the intermediate ones. Lift one end of track away from base and run a narrow blade screwdriver along under tie strip under each rail to break any remaining welds. After a few you get the 'knack'.

Eric UK
Thanks renniks.  I have too many of the track sections to just chuck it and start fresh.  If I can yield a 75 to 80% return on my efforts it will be well worth it.
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Cody J


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« Reply #8 on: August 18, 2009, 12:35:11 PM »

Why don't you just buy track that doesn't come with roadbed. It seems to me that it would be a whole lot easier then taking the track off the roadbed.

cody
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Joe Satnik


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« Reply #9 on: August 20, 2009, 01:44:15 PM »

Dear Eric and Hey_H,

Thank you. 

One of the problems with old EZ-Track (that has been joined, taken apart and flexed a number of times)

is that the rail connector "captive" ends become loose, resulting in bad (intermittent) electrical connections between track sections.

Bachmann rail connectors have small "rodent bites" taken out of their sides. 

Molded "tie plates" or "spikes" that extend out from the ties near the end of the track section fit into those slots to hold the rail connectors captive. 

They work so well that you have to nearly destroy the end ties to remove a loose fitting connector for re-bending (a gentle squeeze only, please) or replacement. 

With the plastic roadbed removed, you can squeeze the end of the rail down in between the end ties with a pliers, which causes the rail connector's "rodent bites" to drop down below the molded "spikes", allowing the easy, non-destructive removal of the loose rail connector. 

Again thanks.

Sincerey,

Joe Satnik       
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If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.
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