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K-27 removal of tender lettering

Started by rrjTooele, October 30, 2009, 09:43:25 PM

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rrjTooele

Thank you, Kevin. The photos look great. I'll try to do the same with mine and share the results. It's a great hobby.

rrjTooele

What did you use to remove the lettering from the tender. This looks outstanding and, as always, well documented. I am looking forward to reviewing the information you include via the URL when I have a moment. Thank you, again, Kevin.

Kevin Strong

I ended up using the denatured alcohol and some ultra-fine steel wool. I never noticed until after I took the photos it kind of took a bit of the tops of some of the rivets off in the process:



But from any angle but this extreme side you can't notice it, and you only notice it when staring at it for a while. If I were you, I'd perhaps try brake fluid to see if that softens the paint up any better, so you don't have to scrub quite as hard with the steel wool. Might make a bit of a difference, at least.

BTW, on the cab, I just repainted the lower panel on the side, not the entire cab.

Later,

K

rrjTooele

Most excellent! Thank you. I'll keep y'all posted. Now, where did I put m'courage?

rrjTooele

OK. No more procrastination, I received the decals. I'll give this project a go over the Thanksgiving Day weekend and post the results.

rrjTooele

Dumb question: What do you use to remove the dot-4 brake fluid residue? Thanks.

Kevin Strong

Super Clean?

I haven't the foggiest. It's easily been 20 years since I used brake fluid to remove paint. Sorry 'bout that.

Later,

K

rrjTooele

Well...I can tell you what not to use and certainly to read the instructions first...or PHEW! That was close.  :o

To remove the lettering paint, my local hardware store recommended M.E.K. Because I am cautious at heart, (please note the span of time between my last entry and this one) I read the can's label where it stated that it may damage plactics and to try it on an inconspicuous place. Using a Q-tip I dabbed a little of it on an out-of-the-way place on the inside of the tender. Yikes! It started to eat the plastic! :'(

So, I'll check on the dot 4 brake fluid or just bite the bullet and use the manual method with the fine steel wool. More later. Happy New Year!

Kevin Strong

Quote from: rrjTooele on December 31, 2009, 07:04:46 PM...my local hardware store recommended M.E.K. ... Yikes! It started to eat the plastic! :'(

They recommended MEK!? Good Heavens! Boy am I glad you were cautious. That would have been quite disastrous. MEK is a solvent for plastics. Many modelers use it--quite successfully--for gluing styrene bits together in modeling. The good news is that you've got a lifetime supply of plastic solvent cement now.

I'm really glad to hear disaster was averted. Remind me not to ask them for advice on how to unclog a toilet.  :P

Later,

K

NarrowMinded

M.E.K. fumes cause neurological damage which can lead to tremors/shakiness not something anybody wants, muchless a modeller.
Bad bad stuff for the typical person to use since it also can cause the same effects when absorbed through the skin.


NM

rrjTooele

I used a Q-tip to apply the stuff in a small and inconsequential place. No real harm, no foul, and I was able to return the stuff to the store for a full refund. Whew!

Now, having recently read a post on the ON30 side of this site, I learned about Chameleon which is plastic friendly, comes highly recommended, and is carried by one of my "local" (50 miles away) hobby shops. I will be in that area later this weekend and will pick it up at that time. Those who commented on the product practically swooned over it. (I hope it wasn't from the left over M.E.K. fumes they may have been exposed to before finding Chameleon.)  ;) I'll keep you all posted.

Thank you all again for your interest and educational/entertaining comments.