ONLINE
STORE
"ASK THE BACH MAN"
FORUM
PARTS, SERVICE,
& INFORMATION
CATALOGS AND
BROCHURES

Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
December 14, 2019, 04:35:52 PM
Home Help Search Login Register
News: Please read the Forum Code of Conduct   >>Click Here <<
+  Bachmann Message Board
|-+  Discussion Boards
| |-+  General Discussion
| | |-+  couplers
« previous next »
Pages: [1] Print
Author Topic: couplers  (Read 3671 times)
malta7841

View Profile
« on: January 09, 2010, 01:36:36 PM »

Please help i am new at this hobby and need help I just layouted a nice track plan and with a little help it came out real nice. i am running two trains on two the different tracks and my main problem is the ez mate couplers for both train are always undoing it is driving me crazy ever other turn the couplers are coming undone. I replaced a couple of couplers but nothing has changed could someone please offer some advise as to help me.. thank you Joe
Logged
jward


View Profile WWW
« Reply #1 on: January 09, 2010, 01:40:33 PM »

are the cars always coming uncoupled in the same spot? is it always the same cars, or different ones each time?
Logged

Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA
malta7841

View Profile
« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2010, 01:45:06 PM »

Different couplers are getting undon all the time on both trains. Track is nice and smooth.
Logged
ABC
Guest
« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2010, 01:50:51 PM »

Easy, but perhaps cost prohibitive (depending on your budget), install Kadee couplers in all your cars. Cheaper solution buy a coupler gauge by Kadee or Micro-mark or use an NMRA gauge to align all your couplers at the same height.
Also are the springs metal or plastic? At least go with couplers with metal springs as they are more reliable.
Logged
jward


View Profile WWW
« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2010, 07:10:35 PM »

are they coming apart at the same spot every time? if so, observe the couplers as they pass this spot. they don't come apart on random cars at the same spot without a reason.
Logged

Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA
ruslraql

View Profile
« Reply #5 on: January 28, 2010, 04:32:17 PM »

Hey Guys -
I just received an answer from Bachmann about ordering replacement couplers for several of my Spectrum Dash 8-40CW.  I was told that there weren't any drive shafts in stock and to check back in several weeks.  It's too bad Bachmann can't hire people that are knowledgeable about parts of a locomotive!!
Logged
pdlethbridge
Guest
« Reply #6 on: January 28, 2010, 04:51:36 PM »

And now back to couplers. Have you checked to make sure the couplers are all the same height. If they are not, they will come apart very easy. Get a Kadee Coupler height gauge and some of their washers and ajust both ends of all your cars. That should do the trick.
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page205.htm

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page208.htm

Logged
CNE Runner


View Profile
« Reply #7 on: January 28, 2010, 09:52:34 PM »

I run (almost exclusively) EZmate Mark II couplers and have never has a moment's trouble with any of them (I have over 200 cars in the collection). The first thing I like to do is to burnish off any molding marks or imperfections with very fine sandpaper or a fine sanding stick. I 'puff' a little Kadee Greas-em graphite lubricant into the draft box and install the coupler by securing the draft box lid...be careful - do not overtighten the screw (the couple should easily move from side to side and center itself...use your finger for this). Now check the height of the coupler and the trip pin with a Kadee #205 coupler height gauge (the pin can be adjusted with a Kadee #237 trip pin adjusting tool). Pd... did a great job with images of part of the process.

OK, so the couplers and pins are A-OK it is time to check the weight of the car (a topic for another post). I have found Bachmann EZmate Mark IIs to be rugged and reliable. The same cannot be said about EZmate regular couplers. You can tell the difference by looking at the coupler spring (in the head of the coupler). If it is a spring it is a Mark II (it also says "Mark II" on the coupler shank...written by the same guy that writes all those disclaimers on TV). If there is a piece of plastic and no spring; you have a standard EZmate unit...get rid of it ASAP.

Ray
Logged

"Keeping my hand on the throttle...and my eyes on the rail"
Joe323

View Profile
« Reply #8 on: January 29, 2010, 01:38:04 PM »

This whole coupler business is confusing to me I have several different makes and type of rolling stock and I am wondering if there is a way of standardizing the couplers so I can buy in bulk and replace all of them esp the horn hook type?
Logged
ABC
Guest
« Reply #9 on: January 29, 2010, 01:52:28 PM »

For all rolling stock with talgo trucks: Either replace the trucks or remove the coupler pocket. Then mount Kadee #5 or other compatible couplers to the body.
For rolling stock already equipped with body mounted knuckle couplers replace with knuckle couplers of choice.
For long passenger cars, if running on a radius of less than 24 inches retain the truck mounted design and replace with compatible knuckle couplers. If running on curves greater than 30 inches replace trucks and mount Kadee or chosen couplers on the body. If in between 24 and 30 inches experiment and see what works  best for you.
Logged
mabloodhound


View Profile WWW
« Reply #10 on: January 29, 2010, 02:55:59 PM »

Kadee has a conversion list for using their couplers in other equipment.
This may help you out.   And read Kadee's tips too, as it also has more info on their couplers. http://www.kadee.com/conv/convpl.htm
Logged

Dave Mason

D&G RR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30
 “In matters of style, swim with the current;
 in matters of principle, stand like a rock.”   Thos. Jefferson

The 2nd Amendment, America’s 1st Homeland Security
Craig

View Profile
« Reply #11 on: January 29, 2010, 09:15:52 PM »

I run (almost exclusively) EZmate Mark II couplers and have never has a moment's trouble with any of them (I have over 200 cars in the collection).
Ray

I use them (McHenry #51 sprung knuckle couplers...) also, but only until I have a chance to install a Kadee #5. Those flimsy plastic shafts are too thin and there is far too much slop in most draft gear boxes to actually KNOW what height your coupler will be continuously operating at, and they aren't valuable enough to bother shimming.

Logged
Pages: [1] Print 
« previous next »
Jump to:  
Powered by SMF | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!