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Author Topic: Adhesive to repair detail on 1:20 car  (Read 2429 times)
armorsmith


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« on: November 03, 2009, 06:45:59 PM »

I just received a PRR-Union Line box car purchased on eBay, in it's original packaging.  Two of the bottom door runners have been knocked off during shipping. What is the Bachmann recommended adhesive to repair this damage?

Thanks,

Bob C.
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altterrain


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« Reply #1 on: November 03, 2009, 08:51:11 PM »

I'm guessing this is one of the shorty 20' "1:20" cars?
Regular CA (cyanoacrylate, super glue) works well or a MEK based solvent like Ambroid ProWeld or Plastruct Bondene / PlasticWeld can do the job.

-Brian
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armorsmith


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« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2009, 08:59:43 PM »

Brian,

I have the Loctite Super Glue, Gel Control.  Is that what you were thinking??

Bob C.
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Barry BBT

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« Reply #3 on: November 04, 2009, 12:57:37 AM »

I have found that CA is at best a good temporary adhesive.  It works well when you need some help anchoring a screw in a slightly enlarge screw boss.  The purpose of CA is to dissolve in a wet environment, which it does even on plastic rolling stock.

The best adhesive for plastic to plastic is Weldon #16.

Barry - BBT
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altterrain


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« Reply #4 on: November 04, 2009, 03:37:49 AM »

I'm not a big fan of CA gels (or the Loctite brand in general). They tend to make a mess and get on your fingers when you squeeze out the excess.  I prefer the better brand CAs you can get in hobby shops (like Jet or Hobby Lobby brands). You can find them in a range of viscosities. I usually keep a thin and medium on hand.

-Brian
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doug c

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« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2009, 02:58:08 PM »

I've used "GorillaGlue" to put back together small pieces . 

Just use a fine small drop wiped off the tip of a needle onto the surfaces,  as it does foam up a 'bit' .



 
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brucethebrush

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« Reply #6 on: February 20, 2010, 10:19:26 AM »

I've been building models while we were still in caves. I use Methylene Chloride (MC). Really nasty stuff but it actually melts the plastic parts together. Our model shop used it and I found it at a local cleaning supply house here in town. It's used as a base for most paint strippers. $16 a gallon! Usually last me for over a year. Lots of ventilation. Pour from gallon into small bottle. Keep lid tight or it will vaporize in hours. Beats Tenex and MEK all to heck.
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NarrowMinded


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« Reply #7 on: February 20, 2010, 03:01:52 PM »

I use good old testors plastic model cement, use a toothpick to put a very thin coat on the part and then press firmly for a few seconds and then leave it alone for a day.

NM
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